Castangia 1850 - Tailor from Sardinia

[usctrojans31]

From my experience, Castangia is cut pretty short too. Something to keep in mind.

 

[Aquafortis]

From my experience, Castangia is cut pretty short too. Something to keep in mind.

Thanks

 

[coldinboston]

I have not had the same experience. i would say the cut is not short and definitely cut longer than ISAIA.

that being said we may also be talking about different models so not sure how it applies to the brand as a whole

 

[Aquafortis]

I have not had the same experience. i would say the cut is not short and definitely cut longer than ISAIA.

that being said we may also be talking about different models so not sure how it applies to the brand as a whole

Wow longer than Isaia? There are many Isaia I've tried on and really disliked the long, 'drapey' fit. Feels akin to putting on pajamas...

 

[Medwed]

Handled Castangia suit today in IT48 3-buttons. Grey wool. Paper label stated Sartoria Castangia, however label on the inside of the coat stated Guiseppe Castagnia (may be not Giuseppe but some other IT name, I don't remember). There were no Fabric Milll label inside like on some higher priced suits. The sleeves did nt have working buttonholes. The buttonholes on the front of the jacket were either defective or very poorly finished with fraying fabric threads poking around. The finishing of the buttonholes were certainly not done in silk thread. The cut was very good with minimal shoulder padding. Even though the suit was too big for me in the body the jacket hanged so well off the shoulders that it still looked slim. The top button was rolling not unlike on 2,5 suit. Trousers were very roomy but well made with curtained waist without V split in the back. Fabric from unknown source was of very good quality with nice even natural sheen. I did not detect any unusual construction or handwork. May be sleeves were attached by hand and some pickstiching around lapels were possibly made by hand (but that is just my impression, I might be wrong). The overall length was similar to Zegna, certainly not on a short side. Feel of the jacket was quite amazing, light but structured, without any stiffness but keeping perfect shape, it felt like wearing pajama top , so light and comfortable the jacket felt. Great testament to the cut. Overall I was not blown away or even very impressed by the suit. Aside from the feeling of comfort and lightness everything else I have seen better on other brands. It is a decent suit from a very good tailor, that is about it.

 

[Robs89]

Hi guys,

Wanted to revive this thread again after I had the opportunity to get my hands on a suit from Castangia. I was able to get my suit through Sartoriale, but I have also seen a good selection on Ebay lately.

We are talking about a fully canvassed, 100% cotton suit with Castangia’s iconic shoulder, which is slightly more structured than the shoulder styles favored in Napoli. It has a two-button configuration with hand-rolled lapels and loads of hand-stitching throughout the suit. What really makes it a summer garment: it is lightweight, but it drapes very well. You can truly feel and see that this is a well-made suit.

Something that I have started to prefer lately is trousers with a high waist and wider silhouette. And guess what? Luck is on my side as the trousers from the Castangia suit has both. The wider silhouette continues throughout the suit and it makes for a comfortable fit. Still flattering with it’s slightly suppressed waist. It reminds me of my Brioni sport coat more than any of my Neapolitan jackets. To be honest, it is actually difficult to spot the house style, so I took the opportunity to start digging and found some interesting facts. Traditionally, a tailoring house in Naples have their typical Neapolitan style, where a different tailor house in Rome can be identified by theirs. The house of Castangia is not defined by its region as Sardinia does not come from the same tailoring tradition as other places in Italy. This has created a unique style based upon the origin of the different tailors that contributed with their skills, styles and patterns.
So that does mean that I’m wearing a suit which silhouette, and aesthetics are inspired from the tailoring schools of Naples, Rome, Milan and even Venice. And even that this specific suit does not offer handmade buttonholes, it still belongs to one of the finest suits that I have been able to find in ready to wear clothing.

Earlier this year, I was able to get a hold of a Battistoni jacket, a label that is produced in the exact same workshop as the main Castangia collection. I have carefully inspected the jacket by cutting it in half, inspecting the canvas, lapels, stitching and other details. With that in mind, I would rank Castangia in the same category as Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Brioni and other top-quality tailoring houses that produce off-the-rack.

I also attached some pictures for your reference.

Let me know your thoughts!

 

[sartoriale]

An older thread here on SF, with some valuable information: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/castangia.1384/

 

[MarkWinter]

As we are getting more and more familiar with the huge Castangia collection, which we are still photographing and uploading day by day, I start to get a better feel of the company and its products. I thought I'll share my two cents with you.

Best examples of classic tailoring are created with the mindset that certain clothes are for certain social functions, which dictate their material and construction. Most of the Castangia pieces were created with this philosophy in mind. What I mean by this is that a business suit in a four season worsted will have light padding and some rope in the shoulders, and more shape in the body (you can call this an Italian power look) while a sportcoat in a textured/patterned fabric will have soft shoulders and even lighter canvassing for comfort and ease.

All the pieces are really well thought through and executed beautifully and with taste. Classic taste. In both Castangia threads here members mentioned the high manufacturing standards, I can only attest to that. What I find important to add is specifically the cut and shape of the jackets. The combination of a slim waist (buttoning point just right) with a nice, rounded chest and high armholes results in a very flattering look. This all comes down to clever cutting and the use of canvasses and stitching. Real hand tailoring, very rarely seen in RTW anymore. I find this much more important than handsewn buttonholes (which only few Castangia pieces have).

The high standard is kept up in the fabric offering too. By touching the pieces you can feel that some of the fabrics feel particularly luxurious while some of them are sturdy with great crease resistance and recovery. I cannot emphasize it enough that all the fabrics are made up in a cut and with details which are most suitable for the style and feel of the cloth. By inspecting these pieces you can imagine a tailor's mind working when he receives a bolt of fabric. " Who is the customer, a banker or an artist? On which occasions is this piece going to be worn and where?" So instead of a generic house style, each garment is created with a unique idea in mind, resulting in some truly special tailoring.

 

[MarkWinter]

Deleted! Posted in the wrong thread!

 

[Aquafortis]

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Great style by Theodoros Pampoukas, founder of Thedi Leathers. We are fortunate to offer some of his truly special leather creations, made in collaboration with Legendary Motors.

Check them out here!!

How is this related to Castangia?

 

[MarkWinter]

How is this related to Castangia?

Sorry! Posted in the wrong thread...

 

[Robs89]

As we are getting more and more familiar with the huge Castangia collection, which we are still photographing and uploading day by day, I start to get a better feel of the company and its products. I thought I'll share my two cents with you.

Best examples of classic tailoring are created with the mindset that certain clothes are for certain social functions, which dictate their material and construction. Most of the Castangia pieces were created with this philosophy in mind. What I mean by this is that a business suit in a four season worsted will have light padding and some rope in the shoulders, and more shape in the body (you can call this an Italian power look) while a sportcoat in a textured/patterned fabric will have soft shoulders and even lighter canvassing for comfort and ease.

All the pieces are really well thought through and executed beautifully and with taste. Classic taste. In both Castangia threads here members mentioned the high manufacturing standards, I can only attest to that. What I find important to add is specifically the cut and shape of the jackets. The combination of a slim waist (buttoning point just right) with a nice, rounded chest and high armholes results in a very flattering look. This all comes down to clever cutting and the use of canvasses and stitching. Real hand tailoring, very rarely seen in RTW anymore. I find this much more important than handsewn buttonholes (which only few Castangia pieces have).

The high standard is kept up in the fabric offering too. By touching the pieces you can feel that some of the fabrics feel particularly luxurious while some of them are sturdy with great crease resistance and recovery. I cannot emphasize it enough that all the fabrics are made up in a cut and with details which are most suitable for the style and feel of the cloth. By inspecting these pieces you can imagine a tailor's mind working when he receives a bolt of fabric. " Who is the customer, a banker or an artist? On which occasions is this piece going to be worn and where?" So instead of a generic house style, each garment is created with a unique idea in mind, resulting in some truly special tailoring.

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Exactly what kind of words that came to my mind when I got my hands on my first Battistoni jacket, a luxurious line for the US market made by Castangia. I do own garments from well known brands such as Kiton and Cesare Attolini, and I must say that Castangia is fighting up there with the big boys.
Hopefully I will get my hands on more Castangia garments in the future, and as soon as I do, I will share my opinion on SF.

A very well written post Mark, keep up the good work.

 

[sartoriale]

Just received another shipment of Sartoria Castangia garments and among them some suits and jackets made for Zilli and Luciano Barbera Sartoriale. So Castangia also has a lesser known history of private label work for prestigious firms.

 

[MarkWinter]

Exactly what kind of words that came to my mind when I got my hands on my first Battistoni jacket, a luxurious line for the US market made by Castangia. I do own garments from well known brands such as Kiton and Cesare Attolini, and I must say that Castangia is fighting up there with the big boys.
Hopefully I will get my hands on more Castangia garments in the future, and as soon as I do, I will share my opinion on SF.

A very well written post Mark, keep up the good work.

Thanks Robin, I will picture report tomorrow about our new arrivals mentioned by Gabor in the previous post.

 

[Robs89]

Thanks Robin, I will picture report tomorrow about our new arrivals mentioned by Gabor in the previous post.

Looking forward to that!