Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[DorianGreen]

I haven't seen Okochi Meriyasu mentioned in this thread. They have some knits in collaboration with No Man Walks Alone. I have two of them and they are fantastic and are on sale right now. Unfortunately, they are mostly sold out. Folks might want to keep them in mind next FW. I'm pretty sure they are coming back.

I took a look, nice but not my taste, how could I say, too avant-garde.

I'll be wrong but as it comes to knitwear, I will only consider British and Italian garments.

 

[DorianGreen]

It's funny because separately I was also interested in this model from Colombo, but obviously in a different price bracket: https://www.lanificiocolombo.com/co...r/products/grey-kid-cashmere-crewneck-sweater

I've just started getting interested in textured knitwear recently. I got a cable knit (Lockie for The Armoury), and may get a cable knit from Colhay's. Then the basketweave from Meriyasu. Maybe another chunky turtleneck too. I need more closet space!

Textured is good, but the basketweave is not my cup of tea. Cable knit , Aran pattern and Fisherman's rib are great classics.

 

[fabricateurialist]

There’s little to no reason to believe that these are inferior, especially since they have access to Shima Seiki wholegarment machines which are prohibitively expensive, meaning that they must be doing something right.

Vandori is another Japanese knitwear brand that uses LP yarns for example.

The notion that certain countries have a monopoly on making better knitwear than others is an outdated once you consider that, especially in the premium and luxury segment, everyone’s using the same half a dozen yarns.

It’s also hard to imagine that a Japanese brand would ship garments with the same sizing inconsistencies as Lockie 😉

 

[epsilon22]

Yeah it's not for everyone I guess, I'd have said no to basketweave a few years ago (same with cable knit honestly I didn't find them attractive before).

As for the matter of origin, I'm not too concerned. I'd judge based on the products. I have handled good stuffs from N Peal (China, cashmere), The Anthology (China, cotton) outside of the usual British/Irish/Italian makers, no reason why the Japanese can't make something comparable.

 

[DorianGreen]

There’s little to no reason to believe that these are inferior, especially since they have access to Shima Seiki wholegarment machines which are prohibitively expensive, meaning that they must be doing something right.

Vandori is another Japanese knitwear brand that uses LP yarns for example.

The notion that certain countries have a monopoly on making better knitwear than others is an outdated once you consider that, especially in the premium and luxury segment, everyone’s using the same half a dozen yarns.

It’s also hard to imagine that a Japanese brand would ship garments with the same sizing inconsistencies as Lockie 😉

I'm well aware of what you state, but it's not only a matter of quality but of design as well. Maybe I'm too traditionalist, but Japanese design in knitwear does not appeal to me.

Edit: By the way, the German brand Heimat is also pretty popular and certainly produces good knitwear, again, not my taste.

 

[ppk]

I'm well aware of what you state, but it's not only a matter of quality but of design as well. Maybe I'm too traditionalist, but Japanese design in knitwear does not appeal to me.

Edit: By the way, the German brand Heimat is also pretty popular and certainly produces good knitwear, again, not my taste.

DG, in some ways, we are polar opposites. I love the basketweave and Heimat. Vive la différence!

 

[epsilon22]

Honestly I see where he's coming from, Japanese knitwear and outerwear can lean a bit too much towards the oversized style (shoulder seams drop quite a lot, very roomy chest and sleeves). The Meriyasu models brought in by NMWA still fall under what I'd consider to be tasteful, but if you look at the measurements, they are quite big (I think the medium cardigan has like 60cm chest?). If you want a fitted style, it's definitely not for you. Even if you downsize, you'll probably end up with the body and sleeves being too short before you get a snug chest/waist. Still, I'd judge each piece based on its quality and style rather than based on regional trends.

Personally I'd add Ireland next to Britain and Italy for my preferred sources for knitwear though. I recently bought a light blue linen crewneck from Inis Meain and really like it. I'd have shared pics if I hadn't stowed it away with my summer clothing (winter is the best time to shop for discounted summer clothing lol).

 

[double00]

i'd go with the US for top knitwear source . runners up include UK , Iceland , Norway , Canada , Peru ...

tbh i'm not really sure how Italy is even in the conversation . china is easily above Italy .

 

[ppk]

The Meriyasu models brought in by NMWA still fall under what I'd consider to be tasteful, but if you look at the measurements, they are quite big (I think the medium cardigan has like 60cm chest?). If you want a fitted style, it's definitely not for you. Even if you downsize, you'll probably end up with the body and sleeves being too short before you get a snug chest/waist. Still, I'd judge each piece based on its quality and style rather than based on regional trends.

Though normally I wear a Medium, I bought the OM in Small. The sleeves are a good fit for me and I have gorilla arms. I also picked up the Jamieson crewneck in Medium and it fits well.

 

[DorianGreen]

I just received my latest knit piece, this Fedeli turtleneck in 4-ply cashmere in Fondente (cocoa) colour.

Size is EU50, 53cm pit to pit. Feels heavy and substantial, maybe a bit fuzzier than the Private White Submariner. Sleeves could be a little longer.

 

[ppk]

I just received my latest knit piece, this Fedeli turtleneck in 4-ply cashmere in Fondente (cocoa) colour.

View attachment 2320007

Size is EU50, 53cm pit to pit. Feels heavy and substantial, maybe a bit fuzzier than the Private White Submariner. Sleeves could be a little longer.

The color is gorgeous.

 

[epsilon22]

i'd go with the US for top knitwear source . runners up include UK , Iceland , Norway , Canada , Peru ...

tbh i'm not really sure how Italy is even in the conversation . china is easily above Italy .

What brands/makers would you recommend from these countries?

 

[epsilon22]

Though normally I wear a Medium, I bought the OM in Small. The sleeves are a good fit for me and I have gorilla arms. I also picked up the Jamieson crewneck in Medium and it fits well.

Yeah I'll definitely be taking small but even then it's likely roomier than my usual 51-53cm preferred chest width on knitwear, which is fine due to the relaxed styling. Looking forward to what the NMWA crew brings in later this year.

 

[double00]

What brands/makers would you recommend from these countries?

what a consumerist response . no . i have no interest in recommending brands .

 

[Rowyourboat]

What does that even mean lol. We're here to learn about brands, makers and clothes.