Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[epsilon22]

Something that caught my attention was that the Chirnside measures quite differently from the 2-ply crewnecks like Leven/Melrose. The Chirnside is around 3cm shorter on size 40/42.

I'm looking at the ink cable knit crewneck on Drop93 (The Armoury label, I'm guessing made by Lockie). Would've preferred dark navy rather than ink, but hard to pass on the discounted price of around $250. The Chirnside at A Hume would be around $450.

 

[DorianGreen]

Thank you for the extra info!

Somehow, it seems that their website is not ready yet.

Do you agree that the collar of the Permanent Style sport shirt is more substantial than the one of the regular Oxton, or it was just my idea?

(I put you in much trouble today, I apologise!)


Best,

Dimitris

Here the link to their website:

https://british-clothing.de/?srsltid=AfmBOooj0rHjloSrOtbNRm9paDFaGtrdly2JmPbbjJ2hue552U60fmg_

 

[Xyol]

[...]

As a side note, it's annoying and disconcerting that William Lockie's sizing is so inconsistent.

I have to agree. The rollneck I custom ordered (earlier in the thread) as size 48 came in at 53cm pit to pit. I was fine with the more relaxed fit but still - one would expect the sizing to be correct. I am still waiting on my cardigan - let's see whether that is true to size...

 

[Bespoke DJP]

I have to agree. The rollneck I custom ordered (earlier in the thread) as size 48 came in at 53cm pit to pit. I was fine with the more relaxed fit but still - one would expect the sizing to be correct. I am still waiting on my cardigan - let's see whether that is true to size...

Dear @Xyol,

I am afraid, that it is some vendors who have no precise knowledge of the measurements of the maker that they use!

I am posting a Table of measurements that I've posted couple of years ago, which was challenged by one of our fellows here.

It was found online but at the time I did not know that this site was of the actual WL retail shop, so please do take those measurements as the closest approximation available:

Perhaps the mix-up is due to the fact (according to the above Table) that WL40/S corresponds to UK38, and hence EU46 and not EU48.

My own WL articles (including roll-neck) are WL40/S (hence EU46 and not EU48) and have pit-to-pit measurements: 50.5cm/20inches, a bit less that the stated above. The 53.0cm is 1inch more, so definitely WL42/M, EU48. Should you want your garments snug, I think that you'd downsize by one size.

I sincerely hope that this was helpful.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Xyol]

Dear @Xyol,

I am afraid, that it is some vendors who have no precise knowledge of the measurements of the maker that they use!

I am posting a Table of measurements that I've posted couple of years ago, which was challenged by one of our fellows here.

It was found online but at the time I did not know that this site was of the actual WL retail shop, so please do take those measurements as the closest approximation available:

View attachment 2285871

Perhaps the mix-up is due to the fact (according to the above Table) that WL40/S corresponds to UK38, and hence EU46 and not EU48.

My own WL articles (including roll-neck) are WL40/S (hence EU46 and not EU48) and have pit-to-pit measurements: 50.5cm/20inches, a bit less that the stated above. The 53.0cm is 1inch more, so definitely WL42/M, EU48. Should you want your garments snug, I think that you'd downsize by one size.

I sincerely hope that this was helpful.


Best,

Dimitris

Dear Dimitris,

thank you for the table. Either way, the measurements are somewhat off. I just measured the length of my roll neck again and it came out to be the length corresponding to a size L in the table (27.25 inch taken on the back of the garment starting from the lowest point where the turtleneck starts). Either way it seems not fully consistent. Especially, since the EU48s I tried on in the store before were definitely snugger.

Unfortunately, downsizing will not work for their non-saddle shoulder garments due to shoulders then being to narrow.

Cheers!

 

[DorianGreen]

Dear @Xyol,

I am afraid, that it is some vendors who have no precise knowledge of the measurements of the maker that they use!

I am posting a Table of measurements that I've posted couple of years ago, which was challenged by one of our fellows here.

It was found online but at the time I did not know that this site was of the actual WL retail shop, so please do take those measurements as the closest approximation available:

View attachment 2285871

Perhaps the mix-up is due to the fact (according to the above Table) that WL40/S corresponds to UK38, and hence EU46 and not EU48.

My own WL articles (including roll-neck) are WL40/S (hence EU46 and not EU48) and have pit-to-pit measurements: 50.5cm/20inches, a bit less that the stated above. The 53.0cm is 1inch more, so definitely WL42/M, EU48. Should you want your garments snug, I think that you'd downsize by one size.

I sincerely hope that this was helpful.


Best,

Dimitris

Helpful as a reference, but they sometimes mess the things up.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Dear Dimitris,

thank you for the table. Either way, the measurements are somewhat off. I just measured the length of my roll neck again and it came out to be the length corresponding to a size L in the table (27.25 inch taken on the back of the garment starting from the lowest point where the turtleneck starts). Either way it seems not fully consistent. Especially, since the EU48s I tried on in the store before were definitely snugger.

Unfortunately, downsizing will not work for their non-saddle shoulder garments due to shoulders then being to narrow.

Cheers!

Helpful as a reference, but they sometimes mess the things up.

You are both right, and we are lucky enough a) to be able to discuss here those issues, and...
b) to be able to ask from our friend @DorianGreen to do us a favour & check - when time/obligations permit - at the said shop in his home city about the EU46 and EU48 measurements of the (say) WL Rob garments and informs us!

Needless to say that I would do the same if WL products were sold in Athens!

Thank you @DorianGreen in advance!


Best,

Dimitris

 

[DorianGreen]

You are both right, and we are lucky enough a) to be able to discuss here those issues, and...
b) to be able to ask from our friend @DorianGreen to do us a favour & check - when time/obligations permit - at the said shop in his home city about the EU46 and EU48 measurements of the (say) WL Rob garments and informs us!

Needless to say that I would do the same if WL products were sold in Athens!

Thank you @DorianGreen in advance!


Best,

Dimitris

Unfortunately said shop doesn't stock any garments in EU46 and very few, if any, in EU48.

 

[DorianGreen]

I once ordered an Oxton cardigan through my trusty shop and William Lockie completely messed the size up: the garment was so huge that I supposed they had misunderstood and switched EU50 with UK50. And they also got wrong the whole order the shop had made for its stock.

 

[Bespoke DJP]

Unfortunately said shop doesn't stock any garments in EU46 and very, if any, in EU48.

You are right!

I just went back & checked, all the smaller sizes are sold out, beside the red Windsor cardigan in EU46.


Best,

Dimitris

 

[Xyol]

I tried a Windsor in EU46 early this year or late last year (in Geelong) which appeared to be "correct" in size, i.e. a UK38. It's a bit unfortunate since I appreciate the construction and feel of WL but the consistency in sizing is meh.

On a more positive note, I (re-)received my cable knit sweater I ordered from Dalmo earlier this year:

It's made from dark blueish-green 4-ply cashmere from Loro Piana and took around a month from ordering to delivery. There was a small knot not woven in but they were helpful and fixed it within a few weeks.
Since it is custom-made the fit is (almost) perfect. If I ordered one again, I would ask them to put some decreases in the cuffs so they are a bit snugger.

 

[DorianGreen]

I tried a Windsor in EU46 early this year or late last year (in Geelong) which appeared to be "correct" in size, i.e. a UK38. It's a bit unfortunate since I appreciate the construction and feel of WL but the consistency in sizing is meh.

On a more positive note, I (re-)received my cable knit sweater I ordered from Dalmo earlier this year:
View attachment 2285963
It's made from dark blueish-green 4-ply cashmere from Loro Piana and took around a month from ordering to delivery. There was a small knot not woven in but they were helpful and fixed it within a few weeks.
Since it is custom-made the fit is (almost) perfect. If I ordered one again, I would ask them to put some decreases in the cuffs so they are a bit snugger.

That looks gorgeous, resembling the WL Chirnside.

 

[elysiumfield]

Is there any real difference between a woven 100% cashmere fabric and a 97% cashmere + 3% silk fabric?

 

[fabricateurialist]

Is there any real difference between a woven 100% cashmere fabric and a 97% cashmere + 3% silk fabric?

silk adds weight and tensile strength

 

[elysiumfield]

silk adds weight and tensile strength

I have had experience with higher portion of silk in a fabric before, which indeed gives very different feeling. But 3% sounds really not that much.