Canali Suit Construction Quality in 2020

[DapperPhilly]

It happend in the past that one luxury brand gave the craftsmanship to a workshop who subcontract to chinese but it is not a generality.
Most of the time these luxury brands have their own workshop.

"When you pay brands like Brinior Zegna who sell suits that cost 4000 euros they are not made by Chinese factories."

Nobody claimed those higher end suits were made in Chinese factories. In fact nobody claimed anything about Chinese factories.
I simply stated some of the Italian brands have suits that are cut and sewn by Chinese tailors in Italy. That is a fact.

 

[AunToni]

I own a lot of Canali suits and jackets and to be honest, what I like most about Canali are that a) they are full-canvased b) they tend to offer more interesting, yet still "timeless" colors and c) they tend to fit me fairly well without needing major adjustments (super personal note, obviously). However, I wouldn't buy directly from them and would always buy on sale. Most of the jackets I own from Canali I bought off Yoox or FarFetch. The suits I did buy directly from the Canali boutique, but always on sale, save for one from their Exclusive line. I paid full price for this only because I loved the shade of blue. Don't really suggest that though as for that price I should have bought a jacket on discount from Brioni. Can't really compare the two, but owning Brioni has kind of spoiled Canali for me.

And I wouldn't buy EZ. I own a jacket from their XXX line, waste of money for me. I mean, the work is great quality, but it was really just a dumb purchase on my part, paid full price too several years back. The reason I say this though might be personal in that I just prefer the Brioni suits and jackets I have to that EZ jacket and any EZ suit or jacket I've ever tried on.

Boglioli is a pretty good brand. I own a few jackets from them that were very reasonably priced, but I only own summer jackets, all linen, but quite nice and a bit more fashion forward without being too fashion forward, if that makes sense.

Anyways, as others have commented on here, I wouldn't buy something just because it is on sale and/or a name brand, but not gonna restate all that stuff.

 

[AunToni]

"When you pay brands like Brinior Zegna who sell suits that cost 4000 euros they are not made by Chinese factories."

Nobody claimed those higher end suits were made in Chinese factories. In fact nobody claimed anything about Chinese factories.
I simply stated some of the Italian brands have suits that are cut and sewn by Chinese tailors in Italy. That is a fact.

Can you provide evidence of which brands do this?

 

[maxalex]

I live in Italy so I know what I am saying, those Chinese owned some workshop in Prato but they are making more affordable clothes. When you pay brands like Brinior Zegna who sell suits that cost 4000 euros they are not made by Chinese factories.

I live in Italy too and I can assure you there are Chinese immigrants making lots of high end fashion brand clothes here. Cento percento.

But who cares? I know some of them. They speak Italian, many are second-generation citizens of Italy. Good for them!

To me the larger issue is the assumption people make that Zegna, Isaiah, Kiton, Brioni, Boglioli etc are being painstakingly hand sewn by elderly Italian gents in some atelier off the Spaccanapoli, between breaks of espresso corretto. Nope. They’re factories.

The only way to get Made in Italy clothes that are hand cut and sewn by old tailors from Calabria is to go to a bespoke sartoria. Punto.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I live in Italy too and I can assure you there are Chinese immigrants making lots of high end fashion brand clothes here. Cento percento.

But who cares? I know some of them. They speak Italian, many are second-generation citizens of Italy. Good for them!

To me the larger issue is the assumption people make that Zegna, Isaiah, Kiton, Brioni, Boglioli etc are being painstakingly hand sewn by elderly Italian gents in some atelier off the Spaccanapoli, between breaks of espresso corretto. Nope. They’re factories.

The only way to get Made in Italy clothes that are hand cut and sewn by old tailors from Calabria is to go to a bespoke sartoria. Punto.

it’s one of the reasons Covid hit so hard in northern Italy early last year.

 

[Professor Χάος]

it’s one of the reasons Covid hit so hard in northern Italy early last year.

Please provide evidence for this statement. You suggest that covid was particularly widespread in N. Italy because of Chinese immigrants. Provide empirical evidence based on medical research or cease and desist spreading this kind of anti-Asian sentiment. Haven't we had enough?

In fact, a paper published by the Italian Cancer Institute (INT) describes the presence of SARS-CoV-2 in blood taken from healthy patients in Italy in October, 2020 during a lung cancer screening trial. This was two months before Covid was identified in Wuhan. I'm not claiming that covid started in italy. The bulk of the evidence suggests otherwise. But let's not jump to ethnically-based conclusions that perpetuate unfortunate stereotypes.

 

[Professor Χάος]

I live in Italy too and I can assure you there are Chinese immigrants making lots of high end fashion brand clothes here. Cento percento.

But who cares? I know some of them. They speak Italian, many are second-generation citizens of Italy. Good for them!

To me the larger issue is the assumption people make that Zegna, Isaiah, Kiton, Brioni, Boglioli etc are being painstakingly hand sewn by elderly Italian gents in some atelier off the Spaccanapoli, between breaks of espresso corretto. Nope. They’re factories.

The only way to get Made in Italy clothes that are hand cut and sewn by old tailors from Calabria is to go to a bespoke sartoria. Punto.

I second this sentiment and the logic that informs it. The ultimate heritage of the tailors and workers in Italy is irrelevant. Do Italians possess some magical or genetically endowed talent for sartorial excellence? What matters is how and where tailors are trained, and by whom. I would much rather have a suit made by a tailor of Chinese heritage who was trained by Cesare Attolini than a tailor of Italian heritage who was trained by Dior (or even worse, Hugo Boss).

Can we please focus on competence and training rather than ethnic heritage?

 

[Professor Χάος]

I own a lot of Canali suits and jackets and to be honest, what I like most about Canali are that a) they are full-canvased b) they tend to offer more interesting, yet still "timeless" colors and c) they tend to fit me fairly well without needing major adjustments (super personal note, obviously). However, I wouldn't buy directly from them and would always buy on sale. Most of the jackets I own from Canali I bought off Yoox or FarFetch. The suits I did buy directly from the Canali boutique, but always on sale, save for one from their Exclusive line. I paid full price for this only because I loved the shade of blue. Don't really suggest that though as for that price I should have bought a jacket on discount from Brioni. Can't really compare the two, but owning Brioni has kind of spoiled Canali for me.

And I wouldn't buy EZ. I own a jacket from their XXX line, waste of money for me. I mean, the work is great quality, but it was really just a dumb purchase on my part, paid full price too several years back. The reason I say this though might be personal in that I just prefer the Brioni suits and jackets I have to that EZ jacket and any EZ suit or jacket I've ever tried on.

Boglioli is a pretty good brand. I own a few jackets from them that were very reasonably priced, but I only own summer jackets, all linen, but quite nice and a bit more fashion forward without being too fashion forward, if that makes sense.

Anyways, as others have commented on here, I wouldn't buy something just because it is on sale and/or a name brand, but not gonna restate all that stuff.

I would also like to contribute to the main topic of this thread. About 40% of my suits are Canali and Zegna Milano (and one Torino which I dislike, and one Roma that is fairly nice). The rest of my suits are Attolini, Isaia, Kiton, Tom Ford, Orazio Luciano, and Caruso.

While Zegna Milano has been consistent over the years, I can't say the same about Canali mainline. In the 2000s, Canali went through this weird phase where they tried to modernize their silhouette, raising the button hole, and adding relatively thick shoulder padding. Their fabrics also seemed to be of lower quality compared to previous models, producing a suit that I found to be unattractive. However, around 2016, Canali once again reformulated its silhouette, perhaps taking a cue from the popularity of Neapolitan brands. The Canali models I've seen recently have been soft-shouldered and slim cut. I bought one not so long ago, and I was very pleased with its cut and silhouette, although I had to size up and have my tailor trim down the chest and arms of the jacket. The fabrics have also noticeably improved. So if you can get a good deal ($500-$600) on a recent Canali, I think they are easily worth more than that.

Another positive dimension of Canali's sartorial oeuvre is the range of its color palette. Its hard to find a Zegna Milano, or Kiton or Attolini that possesses an interesting or unusual color. I'm sure they're available, but just not at a discount. The same is even true for Isaia, which is known for its bold color patterns. Many such Isaia suits are available, but rarely at a discount. It's far less difficult to find a Canali with an unusual PoW or check or bolder color pattern.

At the moment I'm looking to expand into other brands, but if I saw a soft-shouldered Canali I liked with an unusual pattern, I would consider adding it to my wardrobe.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Please provide evidence for this statement. You suggest that covid was particularly widespread in N. Italy because of Chinese immigrants. Provide empirical evidence based on medical research or cease and desist spreading this kind of anti-Asian sentiment. Haven't we had enough?

In fact, a paper published by the Italian Cancer Institute (INT) describes the presence of SARS-CoV-2 in blood taken from healthy patients in Italy in October, 2020 during a lung cancer screening trial. This was two months before Covid was identified in Wuhan. I'm not claiming that covid started in italy. The bulk of the evidence suggests otherwise. But let's not jump to ethnically-based conclusions that perpetuate unfortunate stereotypes.

 

[Professor Χάος]

View attachment 1752246

Wow.....deep.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Wow.....deep.

Isn’t it though?

 

[dieworkwear]

Wow.....deep.

It's easy to get annoyed by @Phileas Fogg, but he provides a great service on this side of the board. Whenever he replies, posters here would do well by doing exactly the opposite of what he suggests.

 

[Lev Vyacheslavovich]

Though this thread is a bit old, any information wouldn't hurt! Typically with my experience with Canali, all their jackets are fully canvassed ( I don't know about the Proposta line, but I believe it is now discontinued). They have little handwork, with the collar being sewn, and the arm linings. Overall solid construction, and one of my favorite brands thus far next to Sartoria Castangia in terms of affordability to quality ratio. I never purchase them full price though. 3 years back I have purchased a Canali Kei ( Kei line having a more Neopolitan look) for $150 at Nordstrom Rack, and I found many other sports jackets from this brand elsewhere below $400.

 

[Beach Bum]

Canali blazers are excellent and if you can find a size that fits off the rack even better. Just have to pay for the tailoring of the buttons.

I've had great luck with Nordstrom and a few other places. Have a specific model number and size that fits to a Tee, as long as no prior tailoring was done.

Just need more reasons to wear them but meetings and work travel finally starting to again. At this point I'll stick to what I love and what I know fits.

 

[Enzo007]

I wear EZ Milano, Isaia Sanita, Canali 13280 which is less common than the 13290 which has a more structured shoulder and not to my taste. Also Hicjey freeman beacon in Tasmanian. If you take the time to know which model fits you best in terms of silhouette, shoulder and collar then you can do very well in sales and eBay where there are a couple of very good sellers. Buying on sale saves money but also leads to buying patterns that are not as common and much more unique. They all use great fabrics, my Canali suits are very comfortable and the fabrics are superb. Typically, it’s fair to pay Ez 1000, Canali 800, isaia 1500. I’ve done better and worse but add in $200 for excellent tailoring if you can find it and you’ll have done nicely.