Boots made by Russell Moccasin Company -- experiences

[hoit1981]



For casual everyday use walking on all different surfaces what model would you recommend?

I've been wearing my Art Carter Traveling Sportsmen Chukka's like crazy recently. Wore them all around the UK in 90+° weather, and have been wearing them in NYC in similar (but mugger) conditions. Very versatile, incredibly comfortable, and good for hot & cold. Highly recommended.

 

[bruc]

Re Art Carters how is the sizing on those run big small TTS?

 

[hoit1981]



Re Art Carters how is the sizing on those run big small TTS?

I typically wear a US13D. Alden Barrie 12.5D, C&J UK12, and went for a US12.5D in these. Very comfortable.

 

[oldfrump]

I typically wear a US13D. Alden Barrie 12.5D, C&J UK12, and went for a US12.5D in these. Very comfortable.

My experience is close to the same. I wear a 13 in Allen Edmunds and Alden and take a 13 in Russell Moccasin's as well, but I have to back down one width narrower - I currently have the Art Carter's (lined) and the Sporting Clay chukka (unlined) and both fit about the same. Russell insists that their shoes tend to fit 1/2 size long, and for most people that is probably correct.

 

[Engineer05]

I discovered Russell a little late into my fascination with footwear, but these have been wonderful companions for hiking and full days on the job-site. Here's some info on the boots...

Signature South 40
Triple vamp chocolate Weather Tuff
Vibram Airbob
Size 9D/E
Purchased new from Russell's list of in-stock boots (no waiting!!)

Mountain PH
Triple vamp green Weather Tuff and green canvas
Poron slip sole
Vibram Multi-purpose sole
Size 8.5D
Purchased used from eBay.

In all honesty, I haven't worn them enough to test their durability. Russell has a reputation for making durable and long-lasting footwear, so I'm not really worried about that. Overall, I'm a Russell convert, and I'm sure I'll be a customer for life (or as long as I can afford them!). I've owned several pairs of handsewns by Rancourt, Quoddy, Yuketen and Town View Leather, and my Russells feel like they're in a different league, in terms of heft and being overbuilt. That is, Russells feel purpose-built, wheareas other makers focus on aesthetics.

Fit & Sizing
On the brannock I measure 9.5D (left), 9E (right). With medium-weight socks, my left foot measures 10.4", and my right foot measures 10.25" long. Both feet have a fairly high instep, narrow-ish heels, and both feet have a prominent navicular bone.

I prefer the fit of the Mountain PH boots, even though the toes on my left foot are nearly at the end. There's enough room they don't feel crowded, and I prefer a snug fit with moccasin boots. The SS-40s are very comfortable with thick wool socks, too, although I get just a little heel-slip in my right boot. If I had to choose a boot for walking, I'd opt for the Mountain PH. If I was slogging around in mud, snow, wet grass, etc, I'd reach for the SS-40s.

 

[~Stangzorized~]

Anyone want to get rid of a pair of these?

 

[lesgarten]

I have a high instep, how would I do in these?

Has anybody had their customs made with insoles in mind for this problem?

 

[oldfrump]

This would be simple for Russell. Most of their styles will easily adjust to a high instep with just the lacing, but if you do the made-to-measure program your instep will be just one of the measurements. For specific instructions on how to deal with your insoles you should just call them - they do this pretty often.

 

[oldfrump]

Once again back before Memorial Day I made the trip up to Berlin, Wisc. to see about another pair. The results arrived yesterday - a pair of kangaroo South 40 Bird Shooters, with significant modifications for me and a pair of 3 Eyed Tie Cushioned Casuals for my wife. They are amazing. Really amazing.


First, Mr. Frabricius, owner, manager, octogenarian, allowed us to take up a ridiculous amount of his time working through our objectives and wants. He had this Kangaroo Leather which I wanted to try, so starting with the South 40 Bird Shooter, I had him alter the eyelets, convert it to a 6" boot, and leave off the pull strap. It was actually much more difficult that that, as I did not know which style it was I was trying to describe with the laundry list of features I wanted.







The comfort is astonishing, even by Russell Moccasin standards. I think they look terrific.

My wife also created a shoe that I include here as an example of the kind of thing Russell will do for you. She wanted the 3 Eyed Tie Cushioned Casual, but needed black - not offered in the catalog. Mr. Fabricius suggested the black French Veal, and my wife thought of using cognac ostrich for the collar and trim.











The result is, to my eye, stunning. The photos do not begin to show the quality of the leathers, the balanced proportions, or the quality of the workmanship.

Mr. Fabricus scurried here and there to find samples of leathers and soles for us to look at in putting all this together as if he had all the time in the world and did not have a factory to run. But if you want to do something special, Russell will work with you.

 

[popman1967]

Once again back before Memorial Day I made the trip up to Berlin, Wisc. to see about another pair. The results arrived yesterday - a pair of kangaroo South 40 Bird Shooters, with significant modifications for me and a pair of 3 Eyed Tie Cushioned Casuals for my wife. They are amazing. Really amazing.


First, Mr. Frabricius, owner, manager, octogenarian, allowed us to take up a ridiculous amount of his time working through our objectives and wants. He had this Kangaroo Leather which I wanted to try, so starting with the South 40 Bird Shooter, I had him alter the eyelets, convert it to a 6" boot, and leave off the pull strap. It was actually much more difficult that that, as I did not know which style it was I was trying to describe with the laundry list of features I wanted.







The comfort is astonishing, even by Russell Moccasin standards. I think they look terrific.

My wife also created a shoe that I include here as an example of the kind of thing Russell will do for you. She wanted the 3 Eyed Tie Cushioned Casual, but needed black - not offered in the catalog. Mr. Fabricius suggested the black French Veal, and my wife thought of using cognac ostrich for the collar and trim.











The result is, to my eye, stunning. The photos do not begin to show the quality of the leathers, the balanced proportions, or the quality of the workmanship.

Mr. Fabricus scurried here and there to find samples of leathers and soles for us to look at in putting all this together as if he had all the time in the world and did not have a factory to run. But if you want to do something special, Russell will work with you.

Very nice....I'm saving up for a pair of French Veal Imperials....Just have to figure which options I want.

 

[oldfrump]

Very nice....I'm saving up for a pair of French Veal Imperials....Just have to figure which options I want.

 

[Bill S]

I have a pair of the Art Carter chukkas inthe German Elk leather. I figured it might be tougher than the French veal, but that's just an assumption.
I've been thinking of getting a pair of boots, like the Imperial or maybe the all leather mountain PH.
To the previous poster, what leather options would you recommend for a tough, long lasting boot? I'm not interested in any of the exotic leathers.

 

[popman1967]

Some of the custom stuff for the Japan market is really nice....this looks like the South 40 Birdshooter in Tan French Veal but not 100% sure...will they do any custom options you want?

 

[Bill S]

Yes, they will do most anything you want within reason.

 

[oldfrump]

...will they do any custom options you want?

I am sure there must be some limits, but see the shoe my wife designed in my post above - she chose the leathers, stitching, sole, and all the internal features herself.

They will make virtually any style in any leather or combination of leathers, sole, insulation, cushion, lacing options, plus others shown on their "Options" page of the website, and accommodations for mis-matched feet, high arches, wide toes, etc. Their catalog is essentially just combinations and permutations of the same basic shoe. But what they are willing to do at the prices they do it at is borderline insane.

The Russell moccasin is a hand sewn upper stitched to a mid-sole with an out sole glued on; like a Blake stitch except that in a moccasin the bottom and sides of the vamp are all a single piece. Every Russell style is a variation of that basic design: taller or shorter, with leather lining (double vamp) or without, lace or pull on, insulated or not, outer molded sole (triple vamp) or not, cushion or not, standard mid sole, leather mid sole, both mid soles, and on and on. Many of these variations are given a name - Imperial, South 40 Bird Shooter, Art Carter, etc., and are shown in the catalog. Example: There is the Chukka, but add the molded leather bottom and it is the Sporting Clay Chukka, add a leather lining and a padded collar and it is the Art Carter, make it a bit taller and it is the Premier Chukka.

The catalog also serves the purpose of identifying uses for a given combination of leathers, features, and soles. These items are selected for particular uses based on 120 years of experience which must be respected.