Bespoke Shoemaker Szuba - official affiliate thread

[LA Guy]

These are gorgeous, and the work is excellent. I have no idea how one would successfully do MTM over the internet, especially someone like myself with only a couple dress shoes to compare against (ie, effectively no real knowledge of how to get things done.) If I was visiting Poland, though, I'd stop by for sure

I recommend making a lost wax cast of your foot.

Okay, really, no one do that. If you do, please know that we at Styleforum highly recommend against that practice.

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

What about your shoe construction...is it really hand welted or blake-rapid (fairstitch construction)?
Do you also do the mackay stitch for lighter shoes?

Pre made heels?
Are you able to make stacked heels yourself?

Rafal,

you are very skilled in providing good proportions,
ie natural talent in doing good pattern in good proportion on last.

Skiving of uppers is also very good

These look hand lasted, is this true?
Is that apron on the alligator hand stitched?

I will send the 360 degrees pictures soon
I can do both GYW and blake-rapid shoes, I know both methods well. Honestly and personally I recommend and mostly do a third option that I like to call "blake welted", that is more durable, but most importantly it is most comfortable for the shoe user. It is based on my almost 20 year experience in servicing and fixing the shoes. Additionally: this method allows huge personalization of the bottoms for the shoes. And also last, but not least: this is the most hygienic option!

Yes, I make blakes for lighter shoes.
I am not sure I understand your question about the heels? I build them myself from scratch (I do not use half-finished products).
Yes, the apron on the alligator is hand stitched.
The soles and insides will be presented soon

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

Btw I finished working today, here are the results.

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

I am probably preparing the world's first seamless wholecut shoes, dyed with the use of a durable, high-gloss lacquer. How do you like it?

 

[gimpwiz]

Bold, that is the word I would use.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Love it!
Got a nice black trim too.
Can see the appeal of such a shoe,
and only available form one man in the world.

Got lots of questions to ask you,
but they wait for another day.

 

[Karl Matt]

Yes, Rafał is good with dying and colouring. Here are my Loakes that were shiny black. He managed to successfully recolor them to this. I never thought such things are possible (color to black is easy, but from black to lighter brown, well I was impressed).

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

A few photos from the process of creating seamless wholecut shoes.

The upper part of the shaft is finished with a welt.

The lining leather is perfectly cut and so well-hidden that it is not visible even when looking at the boots from above.

The boot shafts are so flexible that they are completely insensitive to bending. No permanent creases are formed in the leather.

The linings meet, just like in all other shoes. There is no V-shaped crease effect ( with one caveat though, the last must be properly fitted) .


When creating seamless wholecut shoes, I have minimized their certain flaws, vices that other cobblers around the world usually struggle with. These problems were described by @j ingevaldsson in one of his blog posts.

So, how do you like it?

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

Wholecut seamless

 

[shirtingfantasy]

@shoemaker_rafal, may I know if you also make seamless boots?

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

may I know if you also make seamless boots?

Yes, naturally, I can also make seamless boots.
One caveat is that such boots would have to be done with zero compromises, so I can only do them not with this special offer, but with what I call TRUE BESPOKE method with fully individualized last and project construction.

 

[shoemaker_rafal]

My seamless wholecuts can be very personalized. If have broader feet, no problem. If you want smoother rounder shape, no problem.
If you want calmer classic colours, no problem. If you want something that stands out more, no problem.
No problems and no cuts!

 

[thedavidstarr]

Dear Forum Members,

It is my great pleasure to join your community as a supporting member of Styleforum. I come from Poland and I am a self-taught shoemaker who has been exploring the secrets of the art of shoemaking for almost 20 years. I started my journey with shoes practically from scratch, gradually improving my qualifications over the years, which allowed me to work on more expensive shoes and perform very advanced repairs and modifications on brands that are regularly discussed on the forum. I know practically all shoe manufacturers, from various price ranges, such as Edward Green, Carmina, Vass, Santoni, Berluti, TLB, Loake, Carlos Santos, Meermin, Allen Edmonds, and many, many more.

Many years ago, with the enormous support of my clients, I made the decision to start making custom-made shoes under my own brand. The beginnings were difficult, as the process of creating bespoke shoes involves the expertise of many people, including a last maker, upper maker, shoemaker, and even a patina artist, creating unique colors of finished shoes. Due to a lack of appropriate professionals in the market, but mainly due to my personal desire for self-improvement, I mastered all of these professions, and to this day, every pair of shoes that I hand over to a client is 100% the result of my own work.

As a bespoke shoemaker, armed with the knowledge I gained from shoe servicing, I searched for optimal construction and material solutions to be able to offer my clients a top-of-the-line product. In many ways, my shoes are different from others. Key features include:

• shoes on lasts of a higher class than all others in the market, including TRUE BESPOKE created based on 3-D negative reflecting the anatomy of the foot
• excellent fit from the MTM standard (QUASI BESPOKE) based on foot parameters provided by the client
• shoe construction based on a seamless welt
• unprecedented quality of leather and softness of shoe uppers
• breathability
• durability with a lifetime service guarantee
• perfectly designed uppers
• smooth back of the shoe without any stitches
• and many more features, which I will be presenting in my subsequent posts.

Like every creator, I have my favorite type of shoes that bring me the greatest satisfaction at work. These are seamless wholecut shoes, which only a handful of people in the world can create.

I can say that I fell in love with this type of shoes. At the moment, I have dozens of pairs in the process of making, with varying degrees of sophistication.

The seamless wholecuts I offer are available "off-the-shelf" on MTM lasts. They are made in what I called QUASI BESPOKE standard on the basis of individual foot measurements - I have over 30 types of lasts to pair them properly with such measurements in order to produce and fine tune the shoes that are comfortable from the very first moment.

I also have a second option for the seamless wholecuts with zero compromise: they can be created in a very rare standard that I call TRUE BESPOKE: created as the first pair on the most advanced, fully individualized last, created completely from scratch, taking into account the 3-D negative of the foot and other anatomical features.

SPECIAL OFFER

I would like to share my passion for shoe making with you, which is why I have prepared a special offer!

Seamless wholecuts, prepared in what I called above a QUASI BESPOKE standard, that is:

- created on lasts selected on the basis of the individual foot outline and given measurements

- created from classic leather in the following colors: black, chocolate brown, dark brown, eggplant, cognac.

- made of crust leather dyed in any color

- made of crust leather dyed and patinated

And all this at an unbeatable price of $800 with shipping already included!

The quantity to produce is limited - I can only prepare 10 pairs under this offer.

View attachment 1897975

If you are interested, simply write under the post or send a private message. All details will be arranged with everyone individually. Feel invited to apply!

I’m interested. Wonderful offer. Thank uou
[email protected]

 

[LA Guy]

Yes, naturally, I can also make seamless boots.
One caveat is that such boots would have to be done with zero compromises, so I can only do them not with this special offer, but with what I call TRUE BESPOKE method with fully individualized last and project construction.

Just out of curiousity, is it possible to make shell cordovan wholecut boots? Are the shells even large enough for this?

 

[Karl Matt]

My first seamless wholecuts are here. Thank you, Rafał. What I really like about the shoes is that there are no "stiffeners" between the lining and the leather. It makes them really comfortable and extremely soft, so that not only my eyes, but also feet are happy.