Bespoke in Los Angeles

[dhada]

Sorry your experience was so poor. Just a couple things for those who might be considering the shop. Clearly your experience was so bad you won't return.

1) Regarding the tiny shop. You must have been gone for years and years. Richard moved from the tiny shop himself to a bigger space about 8 years ago then expanded that to the current space about 6 years ago. David (the son) hasn't made any space changes until this week when he moved the shop completely.
The table in the middle was Richard's table. The chairs are new.
The cloth cabinet is still there, maybe it was covered.

2) Re: Staff. David, is indeed, not that interested in tailoring in my opinion. Its my greatest complain. Eric, who only works on Saturdays, very much is, and I try to point new customers only to him.

3) Regarding your commission. That's bad - but it also sounds like you told Richard a decade ago. Did you not repeat these instructions when you commissioned the new suit?

4) Parking. Been a huge problem. The construction down the street has been illegally using their lot for 3 years now. Their landlord and PD won't do anything. Its one of the big reasons David is moving.

All in all, I think there is some good warning here. I think your complaints about the cutter are .... not correctly placed. He's the only one there who knows what he's doing.

I appreciate the fact-based response. Needless to add, my experience was perhaps exceptionally disappointing or I am reporting the events tipped to negative winds. Be that as it may, I will keep an eye on new developments at HST. I do want to end on a calibrated note. Nothing I crafted here should be viewed as an ad hominem text. Just that, I was not terribly happy with the outcome, on all fronts. I am though loathe to patronize overseas tailors. I would rather help sustain local talent and their struggles to make it in this pandemic-driven economy and in this way help create a "California" centric look in well made suits. It won't be SR or Italian made, but it will be what I want, perhaps a tad less stylish but made well enough. Perhaps I am utterly delusional. Besides, my style mirrors the 20s and 30s. They suit my workload use and make me presentable when lecturing to large audiences and engaging in digs et al. Be well.

 

[bebop d]

Although he rarely - if ever - makes bespoke suits any more, Paul at Wilshire Tailor once made many. He is originally from Beirut, back when it was Paris on the Med, and is classically trained. I still find his needlework a joy when I get him to do alterations for me. Especially buttonholes.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Here's an odd take, if it helps at all.

Art Lewin pretty much remade a Holland & Sherry jacket for me that I originally ordered from Divij/Hemrajani M2M but didn't love the fit (wide shoulders, sleeve pitch, collar gap). After multiple tailors passed, I was prepared to donate it. Thankfully, Art was able to spot and diagnose the issues immediately and it is now the best fitting jacket that I own. In the end, it probably cost me more than bespoke would have but I had a great experience working with Art, anyway.

My most recent experience with Divij has been on a suit. I was looking to do bespoke but they guided me to M2M again as they felt confident that they could nail a perfect fit w/o the added cost of bespoke. I trusted this guidance but, ultimately, I should have insisted on bespoke as my first fitting was far from amazing. I'm sure they'll resolve it and take care of me as Divij and Joe are super friendly and great to work with.

Also worth a look is Tam Tailor in Westminster. I haven't had a suit made by them but I have visited the shop, seen their work in progress and have worked with them on remaking a different jacket that needed a lot of help as well. I've seen a lot of very high praise of their bespoke services and plan on purchasing a suit from them soon.

 

[YoungAmerican]

I've used High Society a number of times, though not since Mr. Lim passed. He was ill last I saw him, and I'm very sorry to read that he is gone.

Mr. Han is a skilled tailor but my experience was that Mr. Lim really directed him. When I did fittings and Mr. Lim was around (he wasn't, always), his input was really essential. He often pointed out stuff I wasn't able to fully explain or put my finger on.

High Society was a great service: a good suit, made to your specifications, at a very reasonable price. Their competition were all essentially either crapola or ultra-luxury. I could bring some fabric and have a good suit $1200 and a month later. Sounds like what they're offering now is pretty different.

Again: I haven't been in in a few years, and I have nothing bad to say about Mr. Han, but I'll say that at that price point and without Mr. Lim... I'll be more likely to use Steed or something similar in the future.

 

[A Y]

Avoid. Not what it used to be.

(re. Enzo Caruso)

I'm curious why you'd avoid him. I used him years ago, and was happy with his work though it wasn't to my tastes (too Italian), but perhaps things have changed since.

 

[dhada]

I've used High Society a number of times, though not since Mr. Lim passed. He was ill last I saw him, and I'm very sorry to read that he is gone.

Mr. Han is a skilled tailor but my experience was that Mr. Lim really directed him. When I did fittings and Mr. Lim was around (he wasn't, always), his input was really essential. He often pointed out stuff I wasn't able to fully explain or put my finger on.

High Society was a great service: a good suit, made to your specifications, at a very reasonable price. Their competition were all essentially either crapola or ultra-luxury. I could bring some fabric and have a good suit $1200 and a month later. Sounds like what they're offering now is pretty different.

Again: I haven't been in in a few years, and I have nothing bad to say about Mr. Han, but I'll say that at that price point and without Mr. Lim... I'll be more likely to use Steed or something similar in the future.

I concur with your observations, which are aligned with mine, and expressed so in an earlier posting. Without Richard Lim's curatorial eye, and David Lim's patent lack of either interest or experience in the field, or both, Mr. Han's hands as tailor are effectively rudderless, speaking stylistically; a good technician he is, without a doubt! On quite a few occasions, the late Richard Lim would urge Mr. Han not to cut too close to the thigh in my suits, and on a number of instances, he had to redraft the depth of the pleats in my pants to conform to a commonly agreed "style" we both had discussed before the commission. Needless to add, my observations on David Lim above are to be viewed as personally validated by my contacts post-Richard Lim, and are not to be viewed as an adhominem. I am, of course, sure he is committed to growing his business as implied in earlier postings here, and the price-hike is suggestive of the need for capital to underwrite expansion. On the whole, though, bespoke commissions are defined as much by the quality of craftsmanship and its costs as by one's relationship with both one's cutter and one's tailor/stylist, a relationship that is spoken, unspoken, and bespoken. Effectively, one's tailor is perhaps at par with one's priest, a carer of one's gnostic inner vestments, one's mechanic, and in my case one's archivist! Dhada

 

[ValidusLA]

(re. Enzo Caruso)

I'm curious why you'd avoid him. I used him years ago, and was happy with his work though it wasn't to my tastes (too Italian), but perhaps things have changed since.

I've never used him. I've heard some stories of dropping completely off the grid and massively waning quality over the last 4 years. Was very well respected 10-12 years ago.

 

[ValidusLA]

I concur with your observations, which are aligned with mine, and expressed so in an earlier posting. Without Richard Lim's curatorial eye, and David Lim's patent lack of either interest or experience in the field, or both, Mr. Han's hands as tailor are effectively rudderless, speaking stylistically; a good technician he is, without a doubt! On quite a few occasions, the late Richard Lim would urge Mr. Han not to cut too close to the thigh in my suits, and on a number of instances, he had to redraft the depth of the pleats in my pants to conform to a commonly agreed "style" we both had discussed before the commission. Needless to add, my observations on David Lim above are to be viewed as personally validated by my contacts post-Richard Lim, and are not to be viewed as an adhominem. I am, of course, sure he is committed to growing his business as implied in earlier postings here, and the price-hike is suggestive of the need for capital to underwrite expansion. On the whole, though, bespoke commissions are defined as much by the quality of craftsmanship and its costs as by one's relationship with both one's cutter and one's tailor/stylist, a relationship that is spoken, unspoken, and bespoken. Effectively, one's tailor is perhaps at par with one's priest, a carer of one's gnostic inner vestments, one's mechanic, and in my case one's archivist! Dhada

I .... disagree with a lot of this.

This idea of romanticized, close-cloistered relationships with your tailor. I mean...ok. If you want this, go pay 5000 GBP on SR. Or actually try to cultivate a relationship with the shop.

From what you've said, and based on your thoughts on the old shop size, it sounds like you didn't go to High Society for 10 years or more.

How do you expect to have a priest like relationship with a shop that you don't patronize but once in a decade or so?

David, I agree, doesn't seem as interested in menswear as his father. But he's very easy to talk to and quite a nice guy to work with. I was on the phone with him this morning discussing Fox brothers cloth.

Re: Pricing. They are still very well priced for value. I don't think you understand the economics of running a business very well in Los Angeles.
1) They were forced to move from the old location. Building owner refused to renew all leases in building as they are going to redevelop.
2) HS moved to a building they were able to purchase in an area with probably more high paying customers. Being able to go from renting to owning is a huge boon to business.
3) HS tailors work on premises. In Beverly Hills. Previously in K-Town. Being able to CMT a jacket for around 1200 bucks with the pattern maker, cutter, and sewers all working in CA? You think this is overpriced?

 

[dhada]

I've never used him. I've heard some stories of dropping completely off the grid and massively waning quality over the last 4 years. Was very well respected 10-12 years ago.

Noted and many thanks for the response.

 

[d90000]

Here's an odd take, if it helps at all.

Art Lewin pretty much remade a Holland & Sherry jacket for me that I originally ordered from Divij/Hemrajani M2M but didn't love the fit (wide shoulders, sleeve pitch, collar gap). After multiple tailors passed, I was prepared to donate it. Thankfully, Art was able to spot and diagnose the issues immediately and it is now the best fitting jacket that I own. In the end, it probably cost me more than bespoke would have but I had a great experience working with Art, anyway.

I have a OTR Canali suit that I love...well love the fabric, the way it drapes...it really is a sharp looking suit. I would like to make some changes to it as my body shape has changed over the years. I would consider the cut more of a classic style. The coat is about .5 to an inch too long and I have a bit of a fold now behind the collar as my shoulders are a bit broader than before. The legs are a bit fuller than perfect. I've heard Art Lewin can do some pretty terrific tailoring. I'm stuck between just getting re-fit for new suits or trying to work with what I have. I'm trying to figure out if I'm brave enough to take a really good and flattering suit and try and make it perfect. I would hate to ruin it.

Would you recommend a visit to Art Lewin shop and would a good tailor turn down the business if he did;t think it was possible? Are there any other tailors in the LA area that could do something like this?

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Would you recommend a visit to Art Lewin shop and would a good tailor turn down the business if he did;t think it was possible? Are there any other tailors in the LA area that could do something like this?

I'm not sure if Art typically does alterations on suits that he didn't make. With my jacket, I explained that all of the tailors I reached out to passed on the project due to the complexity and I figured I needed someone with bespoke capabilities to take the thing apart. He was kind enough to see me, possibly as an exception? Making a jacket shorter is risky because the proportions (pockets, etc) might be thrown off but you might have some wiggle room there. I would look for recommendations for the best tailors in your area and see what can be done. If you don't mind going to Orange County, I highly recommend Tam Tailor in Westminster or Kyle at Expert Alterations in Laguna Hills. Both can do wonders with an off the rack suit.

 

[lexxdeleon]

3) HS tailors work on premises. In Beverly Hills. Previously in K-Town. Being able to CMT a jacket for around 1200 bucks with the pattern maker, cutter, and sewers all working in CA? You think this is overpriced?

I don't believe that this is still true. Heard this from a friend who uses the same shop who cuts/sews for HS, which is still located in Los Angeles though.

 

[ValidusLA]

I don't believe that this is still true. Heard this from a friend who uses the same shop who cuts/sews for HS, which is still located in Los Angeles though.

Depends on what is being made. Pants and shirts are often made off site in LA. Jackets I believe still in shop. Could be wrong. I will clarify with David if people care.

EDIT: point remains though. Their prices are very reasonable considering they are making in LA. Hemraijani charges more/same and all the sewing is done in HK.

 

[lexxdeleon]

Depends on what is being made. Pants and shirts are often made off site in LA. Jackets I believe still in shop. Could be wrong. I will clarify with David if people care.

EDIT: point remains though. Their prices are very reasonable considering they are making in LA. Hemraijani charges more/same and all the sewing is done in HK.

If you have the chance, that would be great to clarify with David whenever you talk to him next. There isn't a lot of info for LA bespoke tailors so I'm sure some people will search later on and find this thread helpful.

Jacket's being made in shop and shirts/pants off site in LA makes sense to me. I've handled some trousers from the off site shop (only about 2 miles away) and the quality looks to be real good, some hand-sewn details as well though that was the brand's specification.

100% agree that the prices are still very reasonable everything considered.

 

[lexxdeleon]

If you don't mind going to Orange County, I highly recommend Tam Tailor in Westminster or Kyle at Expert Alterations in Laguna Hills. Both can do wonders with an off the rack suit.

Just a quick update on Tam Tailor - the original owner actually passed away a few months ago He was my go to alterations guy for years and I also had some daks tab trousers made up that turned out very well a little while ago. This dinky little shop has private labelled for many high-end custom suiting shops across the country with clients like NFL/NBA players, celebrities, etc.

Very sad to learn of the news, but his son Peter has taken over and I'm having him make me a suit now with the first basted fitting taking place in about two weeks. I'll report back on the results, fingers crossed.

I'll remember Tam for whenever I asked him if he could do this or that - the simple and short answer was always the same "I can do anything."