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Coxsackie

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Anyone else looking forward to American Hustle?

Opens in Aus on 12 December. Unfortunately I'll still be in Shanghai, otherwise I would have worn my beige polyester safari suit to opening night.

 

Dusty Brogues

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Anyone else looking forward to American Hustle? Opens in Aus on 12 December. Unfortunately I'll still be in Shanghai, otherwise I would have worn my beige polyester safari suit to opening night.
Looks plum Coxy! Sam Rockwell is a gun - His performance in Moon was subliminal.... Q & A gents... Are jacket sizes indicative of height? For example a 40" jacket is made for a 40" shoulder width but what about the other dimensions is it based on the average height and scale of a 6 foot man?
 

Journeyman

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Looks plum Coxy!

Sam Rockwell is a gun - His performance in Moon was subliminal....

Q & A gents... Are jacket sizes indicative of height? For example a 40" jacket is made for a 40" shoulder width but what about the other dimensions is it based on the average height and scale of a 6 foot man?


DB, just a quick correction - a size 40 jacket is made for someone with a 40" chest measurement, not a 40" shoulder width. Typically, a size 40 jacket would have a shoulder width of about 18 or 18.5".

I think that smaller jackets are usually a little shorter, but not too much shorter, hence why some brands offer different lengths in their jackets.
 

Dusty Brogues

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DB, just a quick correction - a size 40 jacket is made for someone with a 40" chest measurement, not a 40" shoulder width. Typically, a size 40 jacket would have a shoulder width of about 18 or 18.5".

I think that smaller jackets are usually a little shorter, but not too much shorter, hence why some brands offer different lengths in their jackets.


Thanks for that correction of that rookie er JM, what the?!
 
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Coxsackie

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Coxsackie

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Another confusing spec is "drop". My understanding was that the drop was the difference in nominal size between jacket and pants, or in other words, between chest and waist circumference (in inches, presumably).

However I have seen sports jackets whose labels specify a drop, ie "42R, drop 8".
 

Foxhound

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I always see drop in a different manner, but a more "fashion sense". The next drop of the Lanvin F/W '14 is scheduled for the 9th of December.

Looking forward to American Hustle, my love for Jennifer Lawrence knows no bounds.
 

joiji

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Another confusing spec is "drop". My understanding was that the drop was the difference in nominal size between jacket and pants, or in other words, between chest and waist circumference (in inches, presumably).

However I have seen sports jackets whose labels specify a drop, ie "42R, drop 8".

This is my understanding of 'drop' too (difference between jacket chest and pant waist), I can only imagine that a sports jacket with a drop measurement refers to the waist of the jacket?
 

JTA

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This is my understanding of 'drop' too (difference between jacket chest and pant waist), I can only imagine that a sports jacket with a drop measurement refers to the waist of the jacket?


That's my understanding as well. I thought at first it's the correlation between the jacket and the trousers however I started to doubt that after seeing sportscoat with drop.

Drop is the jacket shoulder and jacket waist proportion, the bigger the drop the more aggressive the cut (i.e slimmer waist, higher armholes and slimmer sleeves etc).
I've once tried a Caruso jacket and a Ferre jacket with drop 10 where on both jackets the chest were very snug, the armholes were small and the sleeves were cut really tight. I could barely inserted my arms! And if it is a pair of suit then the trousers will follow the jacket cut.
 

fxh

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Q & A gents... Are jacket sizes indicative of height? For example a 40" jacket is made for a 40" shoulder width but what about the other dimensions is it based on the average height and scale of a 6 foot man?

DB, just a quick correction - a size 40 jacket is made for someone with a 40" chest measurement, not a 40" shoulder width. Typically, a size 40 jacket would have a shoulder width of about 18 or 18.5".
I think that smaller jackets are usually a little shorter, but not too much shorter, hence why some brands offer different lengths in their jackets.

I've been doing some writing and research on this stuff. Plus as a practicality and curiosity measurement hundreds of jackets in many many low end, mid end and high end brands etc.

Very short version.
There is no Australian Standard sizing in men or women. There was an old sizing but not always followed and not mandated.
There is technically a UK sizing but its not mandated.
There is technically a USA standard but its not mandated. There is also a USA "standard" called USA catalogue (or as they say catalog) sizing. But its not mandated.
USA catalog sizing will often say 34" waist but real measurements 35". You'll have even see this on higher end retailers such as Howard Yount's sizing. Have a look.
There is a EU standard, EN 13402, finalised in 2006 - 2007, that included multi dimensions and recommendations for simple graphics to describe sizes on some useful basic measurements. However it is still not necessarily in wide use and is not mandated although it does appear that the Spanish maybe be the first to mandate it.

So basically there are no mandated standards. Even if they are mandated it then depends on if the mandate is to be applied in country of manufacture - if you can work that out - or point of sale. Probably point of sale country.

So.

The "tradition" is that mens suit/jacket sizes go by chest measurements. That is a size 40 suit (50 in EU just to make it confusing) was for a 40 inch chest. [to add to even more confusion - only UK and USA use inches or non metric to any real extent] The drop refers to the difference in chest size and waist size. The usual drop was 6 ' - that is a size 40 chest would have a size 34 waist. But there is also drop 5 and 7 relatively common. Of course there can be any drop.

Shoulder width /size can and does wander around all over the place. I have jackets from size 39 through to 42 all with shoulder size 18" to 18.5"

An R equals regular size. S traditionally was 1" shorter in sleeves and length than an R.
An L was 1" longer in sleeves and length than an R.
But there is no rule that mandates this anywhere. But many manufacturers stick roughly to these rules.
 
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click here

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So Brook Brothers is having 40% off Filson bags today only but they don't ship to Australia. Was wondering if anyone here know of any good US proxy websites?

EDIT: Actually I think they do ship to Australia, the postage is $50...
 
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Journeyman

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So Brook Brothers is having 40% off Filson bags today only but they don't ship to Australia. Was wondering if anyone here know of any good US proxy websites?

EDIT: Actually I think they do ship to Australia, the postage is $50...



Yep, BB does ship to Australia. They use a courier service (I can't remember if it's DHL or Fedex) so delivery is faster than with the US Postal Service but the downside is that they don't deliver to a PO Box.
 

Nolvadex

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So Brook Brothers is having 40% off Filson bags today only but they don't ship to Australia. Was wondering if anyone here know of any good US proxy websites?

EDIT: Actually I think they do ship to Australia, the postage is $50...

1 unit(s) expected to ship on 02/10/14







2 month wait? no thanks​
 
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