Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about.

[am55]

Agreed, if all the details are as @Bravo Sierra wanted them, then all good.
As for what the TomDickHarrys on the street notice, I wouldn't doubt that all these details are indeed missed. I don't dress myself for the TomDickHarrys on the street, and I'm sure there are a few others here in the same boat.

On a partially related note, I had the opportunity to get my photo taken after picking up a new suit today and thought I'd make a cross post from the WAWYN casual thread. First time I've posted a fit pic on this thread. Now I just have to wait a month or two for the temperature to drop before bringing it out in the wild. View attachment 932123

Gloria in excelsis viridi!

 

[updog]

Good MTM:

Bad bespoke:

Good bespoke:

 

[The J]

So to be clear you can't use Joe to access B&T from Australia anymore?

Joe stopped doing that, but recently brought the B&T MTM back again. I just emailed him a couple of weeks ago, he's doing it again now.

 

[Journeyman]

Bad bespoke:

Holy mackerel, I didn't realise that Simon Crompton had such massively sloping shoulders.

The suit in the final pic looks to have shoulders that are built up a bit more and I think that is one of the reasons that it looks better on him, in addition to the sleeves sitting much better.

 

[updog]

"Very lightly padded shoulders and light chest canvas, with a shirt-style (spalla camicia) sleeve head and only a little fullness (and therefore ripples) at the top."

 

[Article 26]

Good MTM:

Bad bespoke:

Good bespoke:

Difficult to look beyond the classic coat hanger shoulders - not a classic.

 

[updog]

Could you post a photo of a coat that you think looks good on someone that has sloping shoulders?

 

[nakky]

Essay

I agree there are limitations with MTM. What you accept or not is up to you.

But as sartorial scholars say, know thy rules and break them. I doubt any tom dick or harry on the street would notice the points everyone has pointed out.

Everyone is dressing for others in some degree.

Sure rules are meant to be broken but that doesn't mean that it's always a good idea. Most of the classic menswear rules are founded in presenting the best masculine figure as possible (excluding the American sack suit).

First time I've posted a fit pic on this thread. View attachment 932123

Is that OTR or MTM? Shoulders are a bit big. Interesting colour which goes with your aesthetic

 

[LonerMatt]

The colour is, easily, the best part!

 

[Gerry Nelson]

Good bespoke:

I thought a good bespoke suit wouldn't make his left shoulder higher than his right.

 

[The Ernesto]

What happened to this bloke?

 

[Epicure]

I agree there are limitations with MTM. What you accept or not is up to you.



Everyone is dressing for others in some degree.

Sure rules are meant to be broken but that doesn't mean that it's always a good idea. Most of the classic menswear rules are founded in presenting the best masculine figure as possible (excluding the American sack suit).



Is that OTR or MTM? Shoulders are a bit big. Interesting colour which goes with your aesthetic

The suit is MTM. I definitely agree that the shoulders are large, and are accentuated by the fact that they're rising up a bit due to my slouched position and elevated arm. Also the corduroy is hefty, giving the appearance of more structure than there actually is. I may try to post more photos in time. I intentionally asked to have the shoulders extended about 2cm in total (1cm each side) in a effort to present additional breadth in that area to counteract my wide hips to some extent, following some advice that my last MTM from the same maker 'lacked shape' despite being a good fit. However, I'm not sure it had much of an effect. Tailoring can't make up for the fact that I have the sunken chest of my father and don't hit the gym either. I don't expect miracles either and am realistic of what is achievable. For me, this is an acceptable result for a suit I would not have been able to find RTW.

As for who we dress for agreed. Everyone dresses for others at least to some extent. Anyone who says it's entirely for themself is probably not being entirely honest. My point was simply to state that I'm not dressing for any/every TomDickHarry on the street.

Whether one should break the rules... well, I don't have time for an essay to present a series of case studies for an against, so I'll leave that for another time, perhaps.

 

[Epicure]

Gloria in excelsis viridi!

Yes, the green is appears a bit more vivid than I'd remembered from the swatch based on the swatch, but in the end I think that's a good thing, and it does change depending on the light. Effectively, I think this will wear in any circumstance I would wear a grey suit, outside of occasions that call for truly formal suit, business or otherwise. My new go-to grey suit, incognito. Of course, I'll be wearing the jacket with non-matching trousers too. I'm thinking both light grey flannel and navy flannel (which I need to acquire) will work very well, but for that matter, I think all my trousers in an appropriate weight should work with the jacket. Ultimately any shade of grey or any other neutral should pair acceptably. Time will tell what works best. And thanks, I appreciate the compliment!

 

[ryanohare]

Question:

If you could rid the the clothing world of one brand, what would it be?

I'd have to go for Aquila. Whilst I agree, there are more ostensibly awful and poorly-constructed offerings out there, I must admit to being utterly obsessed with hatred by those horrendous curly-pointy-toed, paper-thin-soled, scuffed, long-laced abominations of footwear.

Id say I conservatively spend 19% of my day roaming the streets of Melbourne on my coffee, lunch, ****-about breaks admiring either the suit, or the correct fit of a suit on some random passer-by, only to draw myself downward to see the next in a long line of Aquila's destroying the entire get-up. Oft-accompanied by a pair of edgy colourful patterny socks.

I've got to the stage where I'm close to stopping said human and pointing out the error of their (foot) ways. I know it'll make me look like a pretentious knob, but I'm not sure I can take it anymore.

So yeah, Aquila for me. That unGodly combination of perceived sartorial quality, overinflated pricing, and shitfulness. The Calibre of footwear.

What's yours?

 

[Foxhound]

Dugdale cape breeze wears nice and cool. Recommend for warm Melbourne weather.