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Geoffrey Firmin

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It's been fun, but I'm all done. Back to clothes. Or failed coups d'état in Turkey. WTF was that all about?

One of my Turkish friends says the whole thing was a setup by Erdogan to shore up his bid to extend his rule beyond the constitutional limits (à la Putin). I dunno - seems a bit far-fetched.


You got your tickets for David Icke?
 

California Dreamer

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does anyone have any experience with hermen (https://www.hermenmenswear.com)? looking at some trousers for work, although i live in canberra so will be taking a (big) gamble with measurements etc.


I bought a peacoat from them a while ago. There are photos somewhere here. Happy overall, but there are a few points to note:

1/ choice of fabric. I got the impression that all of Hermen's fabric choices are from Chinese mills. I'm not drawing any conclusions as to quality, but they do not offer the English and Italian cloth that you'll find elsewhere.

2/ No second fitting. The measure you up and agree the order, and then it gets sent to you. If there are any issues, you get back to them.

3/ Quality of finish. I'm not hugely concerned, but the change pocket in my coat was held together by just a couple of stitches and came apart after a few weeks. Easy repair, but not what I expect in MTM.

I had thought to get some trousers from them as well, but I decided to go with OH instead. I won't see them for a couple of weeks, so can't compare. OH are a heck of a lot more expensive, but you do get more in terms of fitting, service and choice.
 
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meister

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It's been fun, but I'm all done. Back to clothes. Or failed coups d'état in Turkey. WTF was that all about?

One of my Turkish friends says the whole thing was a setup by Erdogan to shore up his bid to extend his rule beyond the constitutional limits (à la Putin). I dunno - seems a bit far-fetched.


According to Strafor this is what its about but anything is possible in Turkish politics:



Analysis
Turkey’s coup plotters certainly had the element of surprise working in their favor. The speed in which the military deployed in major cities and took control of critical power nodes showed a high degree of organization and efficiency. However, the coup attempt is already starting to fray, and its chances of failing are high because a polarizing faction is leading it.
There are multiple indications that followers of the Gulen movement embedded within the military are spearheading the coup attempt. The Gulenists are an Islamist movement that has built up significant influence in Turkey since the 1970s. They started with the gendarmerie, where they could take advantage of lax background checks, and gradually worked their way up the military chain of command. When President Recep Tayyip Erdogan felt that the Gulen movement had become too powerful, relations started to fray between the ruling party and the Gulenists. Starting in 2014, massive purges took place to whittle down Gulenist influence in the media and government.
But the Gulenist influence in the military was not fully purged. This may be because of the large amount of blackmail that the Gulenists retained on major military figures to prevent their own dismissals.
In essence, an Islamist faction within the military that has deeply alienated the secular strongmen within the armed forces is the one leading the challenge against Erdogan. In other words, it is not a coup backed by Turkey’s secular political, military and civilian opposition. This is already evidenced by signs of a countercoup led by a number of military commanders and the national police, as well as by the main secular opposition Republican People’s Party leader saying it is against the coup.
As we saw in Turkey’s 2015 elections, when the Justice and Development Party won 49.5 percent of the vote, the country is deeply polarized among secularists, Islamists, Kurds and nationalists. Turkey has a number of fault lines that breed opposition to Erdogan’s Islamist-leaning political agenda and neo-Ottoman foreign policy direction, but on the other side of those splits are a substantial number of supporters who legitimately support the president. Moreover, there are many Turks who are anti-Erdogan yet also anti-coup, and who remember the deep economic and political instability of Turkey’s coup-ridden past. This coup attempt is the product of an Islamist division within the military – and divisions within divisions do not spell success for a coup.
 

sliq

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gents, it is getting to the point where I am attending a lot more black tie events (think: tuxedo with bow tie) and I will therefore need to invest in some shoes for such occasions.

is it better to go with some calf wholecuts (for versatility, since they can be added to the rotation), or some dedicated patent leather oxfords? i'm inclined to rule out velvet slippers. if it's of any utility, it's to go with a navy tux with a black shawl lapel.
 
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am55

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gents, it is getting to the point where I am attending a lot more black tie events (think: tuxedo with bow tie) and I will therefore need to invest in some shoes for such occasions.

is it better to go with some calf wholecuts (for versatility, since they can be added to the rotation), or some dedicated patent leather oxfords? i'm inclined to rule out velvet slippers. if it's of any utility, it's to go with a navy tux with a black shawl lapel.
I bought my patent leather shoes when I started wearing white tie, and never regretted it. A brief stint in ballroom dancing left me a second pair (so technically I have a rotation of patent leather shoes now).

"Normal" shoes feel "normal" and evening wear is anything but. And you will feel it as you wear your everyday shoes with your presumably carefully obtained evening ensemble.
 

Oli2012

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What are you, a professional ribbon cutter?

Just get a pair of black oxford cap toes. You should already have one.
 

Journeyman

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gents, it is getting to the point where I am attending a lot more black tie events (think: tuxedo with bow tie) and I will therefore need to invest in some shoes for such occasions.

I usually wear a dinner suit once, sometimes twice a year. I've got a shawl-collar dinner suit from Herringbone, back when they made decent clothes.

Obviously, I don't wear my dinner suit much, but I never saw the need for a special pair of shoes to wear with my dinner suit, so I've always just worn it with a pair of well-polished, black C&J Audley cap-toe balmorals.

I do also have a pair of black wholecuts with a medallion on the toe, and I did consider wearing it with those, but ended up preferring the plain cap-toe shoes.
 

sliq

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I usually wear a dinner suit once, sometimes twice a year. I've got a shawl-collar dinner suit from Herringbone, back when they made decent clothes. 

Obviously, I don't wear my dinner suit much, but I never saw the need for a special pair of shoes to wear with my dinner suit, so I've always just worn it with a pair of well-polished, black C&J Audley cap-toe balmorals. 

I do also have a pair of black wholecuts with a medallion on the toe, and I did consider wearing it with those, but ended up preferring the plain cap-toe shoes. 


thanks JM. is it a black on black or black on navy? satin or grosgrain?

What are you, a professional ribbon cutter?

Just get a pair of black oxford cap toes. You should already have one.


I do have a couple of black Oxford captoes. Not a professional ribbon cutter but I have a friend who is in media/journalism and she invites me to just about all her networking events - about 2 -3 or so a month, and about half of which are either black tie or cocktail dress!
 

Gerry Nelson

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I usually wear a dinner suit once, sometimes twice a year. I've got a shawl-collar dinner suit from Herringbone, back when they made decent clothes.

Obviously, I don't wear my dinner suit much, but I never saw the need for a special pair of shoes to wear with my dinner suit, so I've always just worn it with a pair of well-polished, black C&J Audley cap-toe balmorals.

I do also have a pair of black wholecuts with a medallion on the toe, and I did consider wearing it with those, but ended up preferring the plain cap-toe shoes.

I wear my dinner suit with a pair of plain toe wholecuts that I've polished to a high shine - I also wear them with suits, I don't wear my dinner suit enough to justify having patent leather shoes.
 

Prince of Paisley

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Not a professional ribbon cutter but I have a friend who is in media/journalism and she invites me to just about all her networking events - about 2 -3 or so a month, and about half of which are either black tie or cocktail dress!
I would have thought funeral attire was more appropriate for journalism these days.
 

Coxsackie

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The answer is simple: it depends on your budget.

If you feel you can afford patents, or (even better) velvet slip-ons, go for it. These are "correct" and unimpeachable, and if anyone glances askance, you are justified in looking, pitiably, down upon them.

If your budget does not stretch to such self-indulgence, then just go for the plainest possible black calf leather shoes, preferably with a sleek profile, and polish the **** out of them prior to the big event.
 
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md2010

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During recent far fetch 20% additional sale picked up another Aspesi m65 in washed khaki for $240 aud shipped. Overall great colour. Received few unsolicited compliments. Size medium fits nicely over a slim 36 jacket. Anyone thinking of an light versatile piece to wear casually or over a tailored jacket - this is great option. While navy is a toned down version, olive and khaki really brings this jacket to life. Quality is definitely there. There are no loose threads, no uneven stitching. I do own numbers of garment dyed jackets & over shirts. Most medium to lower end pieces there are evidence of cost cutting; where you will see a noticeable difference in colour. Mainly on areas around seems, flap pockets, collars , sleeve underside and such. While this do give a piece a unique colour scheme. I do appreciate the work went on both of my Aspesi jacket to give it a even colour tone. Cotton is sturdy twill, completely broken in and has smooth soft feel. Slim fit but not tight. One can size down for a GQ look. I sized up to be able to fit a suit jacket inside. This also allows the classic loose field jacket style. Below is a quick selfie.
400
 
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Coxsackie

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^ Looking good. You seem to have quite the collection of these field jackets now.
 

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