Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[Button hole]

I have been fully seduced by a certain kind of polo shirt collar. While I have seen these marvelous polos a handful of times now I have never been able to get a maker.

I can’t dig up a photo as an example, but maybe you guys might be able to figure out what I’m talking about.

The collar in question is naturally flowing and rolling, with a “high gorge”. There is a spread to it as well, but the collar points are still sizable. Kind of like what you get in a one piece collar from Zegna or similar.

If there is a specific vernacular for this thing, please let me know. I am also trying to figure out where I might start looking.

Best

 

[styleforumfan]

For casual sports jacket (unconstructed), is it OK for the sleeve length to end somewhere between the wrist bone and the base of the thumb?

 

[Veremund]

For casual sports jacket (unconstructed), is it OK for the sleeve length to end somewhere between the wrist bone and the base of the thumb?

Nope. You’ll look much better if it’s the proper length.

 

[Nolvadex]

I bought a jacket without realising there was no chest pocket. Is it doable to have one put in?

 

[Dingusberry]

I just got a new job where they have a strict tie policy. I just graduated, and I only have two suits and one wool trouser. How many suits/jackets and trousers do I need? And would it be a bad idea to combine wool trousers (that does not come from other suits) and suit jackets?

 

[Sdig14]

I just got a new job where they have a strict tie policy. I just graduated, and I only have two suits and one wool trouser. How many suits/jackets and trousers do I need? And would it be a bad idea to combine wool trousers (that does not come from other suits) and suit jackets?

And to piggyback on this idea, any good recommendations for tie brands to look into that would fall into the good value category? Doesn't need to be really low priced, but not really looking for $200+ per tie as trying to buy quite a few to rebuild a wardrobe.

 

[hpreston]

And to piggyback on this idea, any good recommendations for tie brands to look into that would fall into the good value category? Doesn't need to be really low priced, but not really looking for $200+ per tie as trying to buy quite a few to rebuild a wardrobe.

https://www.samhober.com/
Completely custom (you pick length, width, lining etc) top shelf quality and very reasonable price (well under $200 per)

 

[Sdig14]

https://www.samhober.com/
Completely custom (you pick length, width, lining etc) top shelf quality and very reasonable price (well under $200 per)

Ya, I posted in that thread before here, ha. Have been looking on their site over last few days.

I'm not totally comfortable really knowing what "fold" I want, or exactly the size or width I need, but I will probably just try a couple standard everything ties, one silk pattern, a couple grenadine and then once I try a few I should know more of what I like.

Seems their basic classic tie is made well, then I can play with edges, folds, and other terms I need to learn, ha.

But I'm short, so don't need extra width or length I don't think.

 

[SimonC]

I just got a new job where they have a strict tie policy. I just graduated, and I only have two suits and one wool trouser. How many suits/jackets and trousers do I need? And would it be a bad idea to combine wool trousers (that does not come from other suits) and suit jackets?

You probably have the same amount of suits as your co-workers. I would build up your selection over time but no need to rush.

It’s hard to comment on the odd trousers since you don’t mention anything about their colour or weave. I would be careful since it’s very easy to look like you’re just wearing an ‘orphan’ suit jacket. It may be that you are better off buying a fairly conservative jacket (e.g. blazer or subdued tweed) as your first addition, before another suit.

On ties - there is a mass movement away from them. I say this because if you are trying to limit your spending and don’t yet know your preferences, you can pick up NWT ties online for pennies on the dollar and they will help you refine your preferences before you ultimately get a handful made by Hober (or elsewhere).

 

[Dingusberry]

You probably have the same amount of suits as your co-workers. I would build up your selection over time but no need to rush.

It’s hard to comment on the odd trousers since you don’t mention anything about their colour or weave. I would be careful since it’s very easy to look like you’re just wearing an ‘orphan’ suit jacket. It may be that you are better off buying a fairly conservative jacket (e.g. blazer or subdued tweed) as your first addition, before another suit.

On ties - there is a mass movement away from them. I say this because if you are trying to limit your spending and don’t yet know your preferences, you can pick up NWT ties online for pennies on the dollar and they will help you refine your preferences before you ultimately get a handful made by Hober (or elsewhere).

Thanks. I am thinking of buying one more suit in charcoal or another jacket, because my suits are mostly in navy. Hopefully three jackets would be enough in the beginning. How many pairs of shoes do you reckon I need? I currently have a pair of black cap-toe oxfords and brown suede brogue oxfords for formal wear.

I am trying to find decently prices ties around $50-70 on the B&S section, Ebay or Grailed. I bought an E. Marinella tie for $40 here at B&S a couple years ago which I still love and wear.

 

[ovlov]

I know I'm way too late to the party for this, but I just discovered Die, Workwear's Summer Tweed http://dieworkwear.com/post/163457530289/final-call-for-summer-tweed

. Long since gone; can anyone recommend something similar at a reasonable price point?

 

[am55]

Thanks. I am thinking of buying one more suit in charcoal or another jacket, because my suits are mostly in navy. Hopefully three jackets would be enough in the beginning. How many pairs of shoes do you reckon I need? I currently have a pair of black cap-toe oxfords and brown suede brogue oxfords for formal wear.

I am trying to find decently prices ties around $50-70 on the B&S section, Ebay or Grailed. I bought an E. Marinella tie for $40 here at B&S a couple years ago which I still love and wear.

You're probably overpaying. At $50+ you have access to the most popular expensive brands in pristine conditions from frequent sellers, like Drake's. But you can find conservative Charvets for less than that. There's a reason most listings are "or Best Offer" - check where previous auctions closed... and at that price why not get a new Hober, which is solidly built and whose pattern you can dial in over several tries. The few Hobers I've seen on eBay sell for almost as much as, or more than new. I think in the days of $30 conservative business dress lunches a Hober is very good value for money.

If you will wear the tie often, it might be better to avoid weaves and other three dimensional patterns. Focus on a solid repp or printed silk that will weather systematic use better. A few snags and your expensive grenadine is furry... One thing you can do is pick up ties for your alumni organisations, which can be regularly worn and replaced. Similarly nobody will notice if you wear the same plain navy or plain burgundy tie twice, so solids are a good if boring first investment (that I did not follow this advice at my own start is part of the reason for having multiple racks bending under the weight of ties).

It is true that ties are plentiful on the second hand market. I've been to thrift shops that sold them by the kg ($4/kg to be precise). Most of these ties are polyester horrors or the very bright, hopelessly outdated bold patterns that were popular in the 80s-90s. Think beige big prints on brown and green backgrounds. But you could still buy a few kg and find the odd decent Hermes, Tom Ford, Dormeuil (an underrated tie brand, like Breuer).

A silver tie of sorts will be useful come wedding season, although if you're just starting out you have a couple of years of peace yet. This forum loves the POW check for some reason (I suspect, Manton's old essay which just so happened to name it as the "ideal compromise" between "formal and stylish" or something). Houndstooth or other small patterns are easier to wear at work IMHO.

 

[Veremund]

A silver tie of sorts will be useful come wedding season, although if you're just starting out you have a couple of years of peace yet. This forum loves the POW check for some reason (I suspect, Manton's old essay which just so happened to name it as the "ideal compromise" between "formal and stylish" or something). Houndstooth or other small patterns are easier to wear at work IMHO.

Sounds like the Pareto Principle to me.

 

[Slh]

At the moment I don't own a long coat to wear over my suit and sportcoats and I need one.
I noticed this tan guncheck coat by abercrombie

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us...9792&cjevent=7c39500bec1f11e880f300090a18050c

I really like the design and the price is fair. It can definetely work worn casually with jeans, cords and chinos and a sweater, but
do you think that coat would work over a navy suit? Or over a sportcoat and dress pants outfit?Or it's too casual?

ps do you think that colour would work with medium to light grey ( flannel dress pants)?

 

[facet]

At the moment I don't own a long coat to wear over my suit and sportcoats and I need one.
I noticed this tan guncheck coat by abercrombie

https://www.abercrombie.com/shop/us...9792&cjevent=7c39500bec1f11e880f300090a18050c

I really like the design and the price is fair. It can definetely work worn casually with jeans, cords and chinos and a sweater, but
do you think that coat would work over a navy suit? Or over a sportcoat and dress pants outfit?Or it's too casual?

ps do you think that colour would work with medium to light grey ( flannel dress pants)?

It looks pretty casual to my eye. From what I’ve read, you might want to look into getting an overcoat or topcoat (which you could also dress down if you wanted). Spier and Mackay has some you can check out that are quite well priced and the reviews have been very high for their quality.