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[12345Michael54321]

Isaia smoking jacket, $380. Allegedly $3000 at full price.

I have no idea whether it really cost $3000, but it's largely irrelevant in any case. To the extent that I'm not sure why you even mentioned it.

Should I buy it and what does one wear with a smoking jacket

If you've use for a smoking jacket, and you like the style of the one in question, then feel free to buy it. Me? If I were in the market for a smoking jacket, I'd want a velvet one. With a sash or belt. And turn up cuffs. And a shawl collar. All of which the jacket in question seems to lack (leaving it looking quite like a standard tuxedo jacket). But hey, to each his own.

As for what to wear with it, I'll refrain from snobbishly suggesting that if one doesn't know what to wear with a smoking jacket, one oughtn't wear a smoking jacket. I'd probably wear matching trousers with mine, but that's just me.

 

[bobdobalina]

Those were a series of good burns, 12345Michael54321. I'm just a humble suburban father of three who probably has an occasion about 1x/year to wear something like that in public and I don't know whether that's the right one or not.

What would a pair of "matching trousers" look like? And if they're "matching", why not sell them alongside the jacket?

 

[kylesuperstar]

Hey guys, I have a question regarding chest and shoulder sizes on suits. I typically fit between a 40 or 38 on most brands. My chest is a size 38, but I would say most of the time the size 40 fits me better around the shoulders, but on the size 40 the chest would be about 1-2inches too big. What would you all recommend in such a situation?
I know that shoulder fit is #1, but it seems I can't bring the chest in 1-2 inches either (from talking to boutique store salespeople and some tailors), so that's also problematic.

 

[am55]

Those were a series of good burns, 12345Michael54321. I'm just a humble suburban father of three who probably has an occasion about 1x/year to wear something like that in public and I don't know whether that's the right one or not.

What would a pair of "matching trousers" look like? And if they're "matching", why not sell them alongside the jacket?

This question comes up so often there is a website for it: http://www.blacktieguide.com/Classic/Classic_Intro.htm and a thread here lamenting general global ignorance of it (called "State of Black Tie"). It's worth reading through the site which should take you about 20 minutes. There is nothing special about "knowing" since anybody can read about it there or other sources.

Now, these days if you wear a black suit with a bow tie and white shirt it passes as black tie, and if you have kids and few true black tie occasions, then it probably isn't worth buying something for it. Many people will turn up in "smart jeans" despite the invitation stating black tie. Anyway... the general opinion around these parts is that the "classic" black tie looks best (i.e. if you try to follow the "rules", it's hard to go wrong).

Philosophically, a notch lapel belongs to a lounge suit (i.e. normal office suit). In practice, many of the Italian factories will take a lounge suit pattern, stick some silk facings on the lapels, and call it a tuxedo (dinner jacket in the UK). The problem is that the pattern for a tuxedo (classic, that is) is fundamentally different: first, it has only one button at the front if single breasted, second, the lapels ought to be shawl (no notch, kind of like a bathrobe) or peak. There are a thousand explanations for this, the most common one being "it should look different from a lounge suit". If you look at a Hollywood ceremony or other public black tie event you will find tons of people wearing two button notch lapel jackets, they are victims of the factories' laziness. Note these will sell for very high prices since the customers don't know any better.

A smoking jacket, everywhere except France (where a "smoking" refers to a dinner jacket, i.e. the black tie look on the website above) refers to something someone in the first half of the 20th century would have worn at home to greet his guests for dinner; and maybe not even then, probably just for retiring to the pool table with the other male guests and smoke and drink some whisky. It was not appropriate to go outside the house with it, a bit like pyjamas, although today people will do it often particularly when they are bored of normal black tie.

I would therefore avoid it if I were you, especially with "1x event a year" and if your social circle is "suburban dads" (not known for yuppie flashiness). Generally smoking jackets are in velvet in darker colours like burgundy or purple or navy, sometimes with contrast frogging and other details that take them even further from suits and dinner jackets. Smoking jackets, midnight blue dinner jackets, and ivory dinner jackets (to be worn in tropical weather) and the now defunct Burma shade and other dinner jackets all take black trousers with a silk stripe down the side. See Casablanca for tropical wear dinner jackets - and note all the trousers are black. Ivory or other light coloured dinner jackets do not have silk facings, another detail frequently done badly by RTW labels.

If I had to buy just one dinner jacket on a budget, it would be a double breasted peak lapel, because then I could wear it without a waist covering, and so wouldn't have to buy a waist covering. It is enormously difficult to fit a waistcoat, even for a good tailor; as such if you are going single breasted I'd recommend going for a cummerbund, which also happens to be cheaper. Note many famous dressers such as Prince Charles wear a DB peak, I suspect out of convenience (as mentioned on the other thread Prince Charles also likes not to bother with studs; but then again T&A shirts have beautiful buttons made of mother of pearl and sewn tidily). Most dress shirts at retail are really abysmal, with soft butterfly collars with tiny wings and that close far too low, and horrible plackets and low quality cotton. If someone gives you grief for not wearing studs or a butterfly collar point them to Prince Charles. Aesthetically I find the turndown collar much nicer looking; and it is also more accurate since black tie was the more informal wear worn at dinner as opposed to white tie (tails) which is formal and worn for special occasions. Also, most bow ties are not bespoke, so you will have some kind of adjuster at the back which is best hidden under a turndown collar.

Lastly $300 is not that cheap. There are better on eBay. My last, fully canvassed, peak lapel dinner jacket and trousers, in an almost unworn state, went for $150. Isaia is a decent high quality RTW label that, like all other Italian suits in America, had a ridiculously high MSRP and then sold at a fraction. You can find "NWT" (new with tags) labels of similar quality for a similar 70%+ discount on eBay from a variety of frequent sellers. If you need inspiration for brands: http://dirnelli.tumblr.com/post/49814477662/review-of-tailors-and-suits-ive-owned is starting to get old but still applies (e.g. Sartoria Partenopea is now bankrupt). I'd aim for Belvest.

 

[am55]

In defence of the notch lapel, it is sometimes used as counter signalling, to tell all the SF types "hey, I don't care about your fussing with rules" or to say "I'm a normal, friendly, approachable guy from the suburbs just like you" (e.g. George Clooney, who is always so meticulously dressed his choice of notch must be intentional).

 

[charles111]

I am 5' 10", with legs on the shorter side (I wear about a size 30 in length for jeans). I weigh about 165lbs. I also have naturally thick thighs. I'm "bottom-heavy." My waist is about 28". Chest about 38". Shoulders about 39". Can't remember what my hip measurement was, but I think it's between a 35-38". I also have relatively bigger upper arms. I typically wear 33" long dress shirts. I want to look into ways to make my legs appear longer and thinner (the thighs mostly) and not to give the "short legs, bottom heavy look" when wearing a suit. Any suggestions?

In terms of length, it seems that I can really only do 1 or the 2: (1) make upper body look shorter (2) make lower body look longer. Should I go with a shorter jacket, though this would end up showing more butt? Elevator shoes to add length to my lower body? Neither seems like great options.

In terms of making my thighs appear thinner, I have no idea.

 

[mensimageconsultant]

Dark (non-black) colors and proper fit (standard jacket length, pants neither tight nor tapered). A jacket with pagoda shoulders and a bold tie would help distract from the "bottom-heavy" build.

 

[Kelvin0683]

Looking to purchase either a Royal Oxford or Pinpoint Oxford shirt. Does anyone know what the differences are? I’m looking for a thicker material and I’m not sure which one might be better for something like going to meetings.

 

[Kelvin0683]

Looking to purchase either a Royal Oxford or Pinpoint Oxford shirt. Does anyone know what the differences are? I’m looking for a thicker material and I’m not sure which one might be better for something like going to meetings.

 

[pyrocryptic]

I have a couple of questions regarding dress shirts when wearing a suit. Does a baggy dress shirt sleeve affect how the suit jacket sleeve look?

I have an issue with my dress shirt cuff/sleeve pulling up above my suit jacket sleeve when I lift my arms, but when I Set my arm back down the shirt sleeve stays pulled upwards And the suit no longer shows cuff. What is the problem?

 

[Ich_Dien]

You might say the shirt sleeves could be too big and are getting caught against the suit sleeves. What brand shirts do you wear?

 

[zanci]

Where to buy a quality french cuff formal shirt in EU?

Wanted to go for Kent Wang, but dont really want to wait that long...

 

[Shirtmaven]

Looking to purchase either a Royal Oxford or Pinpoint Oxford shirt. Does anyone know what the differences are? I’m looking for a thicker material and I’m not sure which one might be better for something like going to meetings.

Royal Oxford is thicker. Both are fine for meetings

 

[Ich_Dien]

Where to buy a quality french cuff formal shirt in EU?

Wanted to go for Kent Wang, but dont really want to wait that long...

T&A? Emma Willis? Hilditch & Key? A whole list of Italian makers...

You need to be a bit more specific about what fit you want first.

 

[zanci]

I want a slim fit. Want to buy the shirt online...