Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

[Koala-T]

What are the guidelines on matching suspenders? Should the match to the tie or pocket square? Is exact match better or complimentary match?

 

[Churchill W]



I need sport coat support. I just bought these 3 from Saksoff5th and need to know whether to keep and how to wear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

For context I'm a 42yr old government attorney living in the Pacific NW where we redefine the meaning of business casual. I'm trying to walk the line of looking distinguished without standing out. Here's what the wife says. Corneliani brown plaid-70/15/15 wool/ silk/flax ($199) feels lovely but it's too used-car-salesman. The Corneliani cotton grey houndstooth($199) as the most casual versatile. The navy plaid linen Ike Behar ($125) is OK, no strong feelings. In general she's very skeptical of sport coats worn by anyone but Don Draper. So what do the men say? Thanks!

Personally I don't like any of them. Personally I would go with something in a smaller pattern and subdued. The patterns you picked are too bold IMO.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Hi all, is the button stance okay? Or is it too high?

Too high IMO. I prefer the top button to be an inch or two above my belly button.

Some years ago the "button stance is to low" mantra got started. So, how has it gone? "Button stance is to low". So button stance goes up. Along comes new people and they read, "Button stance is to low". So button stance goes up. Along comes new people and they read, "Button stance is to low". So button stance goes up. Along comes new people and they read, "Button stance is to low". So button stance goes up. Along comes new people and they read, "Button stance is to low". So button stance goes up. Etc. So when is button stance to high and the mantra starts, "Button stance is too high"?

Here it is too high IMO.

 

[deadAngle]

I usually match the main suspender colour to the main tie colour, and leathers to shoes if the leather is black or brown. If the leather is blue or red or something I don't bother worrying about that. I try for a similar match - if secondary colours are either a match or complimentary that works nicely too.

 

[mimo]

What are the guidelines on matching suspenders? Should the match to the tie or pocket square? Is exact match better or complimentary match?

Nobody should see them, so it doesn't matter. But don't match them. Go bright, or go subtle, whatever your fancy. Just avoid novelty patterns (like you would on a tie, one would hope).

Matching them to something would smack of insecurity. Worse than matching tie and PS. Unless you have green hair or something. Then match them to that, because it would be funny. Just not on this part of the forum.

 

[deadAngle]

I don't go by the logic that "nobody should see them" because I'll take my jacket off at some point in the day. If I wasn't going to take off my jacket I could also wear a black belt with brown shoes but nobody would disagree that that would be the wrong choice unless that was the only belt I had. The going theory is that both the suspenders and the tie are vertical elements that occupy the same space on the shirt and should reflect one another in some way - but like a pocket square, an exact match is pretty tryhard.

 

[packerforthree]

http://www-m.gucci.com/us/styles/274962J87001000 What would I wear with these? I'm a 17 year old high school student who wears a lot of nice clothes..

 

[sinnedk]

how do SUTOR MANTELLASSI shoes fit? TTS?

 

[mimo]

In my limited experience, yes.

 

[mimo]

I don't go by the logic that "nobody should see them" because I'll take my jacket off at some point in the day. If I wasn't going to take off my jacket I could also wear a black belt with brown shoes but nobody would disagree that that would be the wrong choice unless that was the only belt I had. The going theory is that both the suspenders and the tie are vertical elements that occupy the same space on the shirt and should reflect one another in some way - but like a pocket square, an exact match is pretty tryhard.

Suit yourself; I take my jacket off at work too, but usually wear braces either under a DB that I never take off, or a three piece. By showing your braces, you're making a big bold statement, which is fine. But then worrying about whether they blend with the tie doesn't make much sense. Wear bright red ones if you want to be cheeky, burgundy if you hurt fewer eyes, black or white or navy...whatever. But I'd say contrast with everything - showing the braces to the world is contrary, so might as well go all the way, and I don't mean that as a criticism at all. And yes, tie and PS of similar tone but opposing colours is my usual rule.

http://www-m.gucci.com/us/styles/274962J87001000 What would I wear with these? I'm a 17 year old high school student who wears a lot of nice clothes..

Don't buy them in the first place. They have not been fashionable since 1982, are inherently brand-whorish, and as they're black and polished while still being slippers, they also don't make any sense. No. Just don't.

You're a young man who wants to be stylish and that's great, but this isn't it. Lurk a bit, check out some styles that don't make you look like you're going for an internship interview (except when you are, obviously), and ask more questions. You'll do great! Try the No Man Walks Alone thread for some casual looks, then work out where to buy similar things cheaper!

 

[dRm0j0]

Quick question if I may,

Correct me if I'm wrong but I am under the impression that summer suits (cotton/linen) are generally cheaper than their wool counterparts. I was wondering though, as you move up the price point from for the sake of argument, Uniqlo at < $100, to Suit Supply ($400-650) and ultimately High end MTM/Bespoke ($1000+); what are the real benefits to the material itself? Sorry for babbling I'm high on caffeine at the moment, in essence what's the difference (not including construction/handiwork,etc) of FABRIC ONLY between lower end and high end summer suiting? And what are your recommended "sweet spots"?

Thanks!

B

 

[mimo]

There is a massive range of quality in cloth of the same composition, and the bottom line is that usually, you get what you pay for. I've had linen for $10/yd and $50/yd and it's not the same. "Super 100s wool" can be anything you imagine. The type of weave, the quality control, the length and "crinkle" of fibres...there are a thousand variables. So good cotton is better than bad wool. But good wool is better than most things.

 

[vorkanz]

Do anyone know any cloth company that sells Bemberg Cupro lineing for suits and sportcoats?

 

[cakv]

Does anyone know what's up with the pattern matching on the right panel of the jacket, around the pockets?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-1695-CO...385?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43db371689

 

[bespoken4me]

Yes, but no. The true test of matching, according to last generation Oxxford Co. Chicago, East European tailors (sorry, but considered the Golden Age of tailoring), the matching of stripes, plaids on top part to bottom cut of notch lapel has always been the hallmark of those in the know that it was a custom, or bespoke suit. Pocket matching or top of shoulder, means nothing. Please prove or try to disprove what I said- I hate conventional wisdom especially when I perpetuate it

 

[pstoller]



Does anyone know what's up with the pattern matching on the right panel of the jacket, around the pockets?

The jacket is darted on the front, distorting the horizontal dimension of the pattern and causing the vertical line through the right pockets to temporarily "disappear." Thus, the pocket flap patterns don't line up perfectly on either side. The ticket pocket makes it more obvious, but the seam appears to "eat" the line more on the right than on the left, as well. Might be why this suit is on eBay.