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Antonio Meccariello Shoes

grc1

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Thanks @ThunderMarch


" Design - This is one of my favourite adelaide designs to date. Some adelaides have the lower end of the facings markedly "flared out" which I find rather ugly.



It's funny, but this is the very reason why I was never crazy about the GG St. James, to the contrary of public opinion. It seems a little garish and exaggerated to me.


Agree 100% - I really don't like markedly flaired-out adelaides; it's the reason I'm holding on to my one "classic" St James II, the last one G&G made before they switched to the new, more flaired design.

I think adelaides can be too narrow as well (I'm thinking StC, Vass and AS).

Purely personal taste, of course - to each his own.
 

JermynStreet

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10 months in the making, but here are mine.
400


400


400


400
 

JSO1

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Can Meccariello, or anyone else for that matter, do a seamless wholecut shoe in shell?
 

peppercorn78

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@JermynStreet congrats! I love the color and finishing on those. And the sole seems so lovely it's almost a shame to walk on them.
 

peppercorn78

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Can Meccariello, or anyone else for that matter, do a seamless wholecut shoe in shell?


That would be one expensive shoe if so...
 

j ingevaldsson

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^^^Shell cordovan has low tensile strength, so doubt it. You normally last a regular shell shoe looser than with regular calf, to avoid tearing it apart, and in general don't use pull tabs, for example.
 
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JSO1

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^^^Shell cordovan has low tensile strength, so doubt it. You normally last a regular shell you looser than with regular calf, to avoid tearing it apart, and in general don't use pull tabs, for example.

That's my concern. Perhaps @DWFII or @ntempleman can chime in.
 
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ntempleman

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Probably could if you really wanted to, as noted above the size of the shells you can get would be a limiting factor - seamless uses a lot of leather. Crup often looks pretty bad after blocking though, for a Chelsea boot for instance, so there'd probably be a chunk of danger money on that invoice.
 

DWFII

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I suspect blocking a shell for a whole cut would be relatively easy. Blocking for a seamless wholecut, on the other hand is not a given...nor something I would think all that practical or compelling in terms of the maker's POV.

There is so much going on to make a seamless wholecut--stretching, chasing, & compressing a massive amount of surplus--all to eliminate pipes and wrinkles and make the surface smooth. Shell doesn't seem particularly suitable or amenable, in that regard.

That said, I really don't think tensile strength bears much on proper lasting--the leather has to be pulled "tight to the wood" regardless of tensile strength. Some leathers simply aren't suited...depending on strength and / or substance...for shoemaking, period. If the leather can't be lasted tight to the wood, without tearing, it's worthless for shoemaking.

Shell...in my opinion...is really only marginal for shoemaking. It's only redeeming feature is its thickness.
 

JSO1

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Probably could if you really wanted to, as noted above the size of the shells you can get would be a limiting factor - seamless uses a lot of leather. Crup often looks pretty bad after blocking though, for a Chelsea boot for instance, so there'd probably be a chunk of danger money on that invoice.


I suspect blocking a shell for a whole cut would be relatively easy. Blocking for a seamless wholecut, on the other hand is not a given...nor something I would think all that practical or compelling in terms of the maker's POV.

There is so much going on to make a seamless wholecut--stretching, chasing, & compressing a massive amount of surplus--all to eliminate pipes and wrinkles and make the surface smooth. Shell doesn't seem particularly suitable or amenable, in that regard.

That said, I really don't think tensile strength bears much on proper lasting--the leather has to be pulled "tight to the wood" regardless of tensile strength. Some leathers simply aren't suited...depending on strength and / or substance...for shoemaking, period. If the leather can't be lasted tight to the wood, without tearing, it's worthless for shoemaking.

Shell...in my opinion...is really only marginal for shoemaking. It's only redeeming feature is its thickness.

Thanks for your input, gents. Much appreciated.
 

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