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Not sure if the idea of a wholecut Chelsea is for everyone, but I am making the following GMTO proposal for the community's suggestion. In the worst case I can always order on my own as a single-pair MTO
Background
Wholecut Chelsea boots are not made by many high-end makers. It's apparently made only by those who started off with much determination for making the shoes in the good, old way e.g.
Gaziano & Girling "Burnham", Goodyear-welted, GBP 1300 + VAT
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J.M. Weston "700 Chelsea", Goodyear-welted, EUR 900 + VAT
View attachment 1213578
Recently I acquired a pair of Horween hatchgrain boots from Medallion (Antonio's China retailer) during their summer sale. For the first time, I found that this kind of not-so-luxury leather actually has an addictive property.
After two rounds of Saphir wax: a gorgeous patina developing at an incredible pace. The smoothed-out grains at the toe and heel areas certainly add another dimension to the texture of the shoes - something that would be even more interesting on a pair of wholecut chelsea.
View attachment 1213579
The proposal
Model: Pilus Prior (one-piece wholecut, vertical seam at the back)
Construction: Argentum welted
Leather: Horween hatchgrain (see here for the colour options available from Horween's UK dealer) [? Sienna ? Saddle brown]
Last: ? Round ? Mayfair
The price for single pair MTO is about EUR 850. Using the formula by @ThunderMarch, a successful GMTO campaign would be able to bring this model down to about EUR 680 (-20% from single pair price).
Personally, I would prefer saddle brown or chestnut, which gives my collection a sort of colour variation. But Sienna is certainly a lovely and versatile shade. If that is the popular colour I am happy to go with it as well.
Any thoughts?
Antonio's wholecut Chelsea "Pilus Prior" in pigskin (style reference) - to be realized in a brown/ dark brown Horween hatchgrain
View attachment 1213629
We need a derby/oxford boot GMTO in preparation for fall/winter
That should be fun
Wonder what the price would be with calf vs shell...Could consider:
1. Keeping the kudu for texture
2. Change cordovan to smooth calf to contain cost for GMTO purposes
- Model: Centurion (Split Toe Derby with Handsewn Apron)
- Constructions
- Argentum Welted
- Leather:
- smooth box calf
- Color:
- Dark Brown
- Last:
- Chisel 2
- Sole:
- Oak Tanned
Hastatus 2 GMTO update...
We're in the tail end stages. Mostly left with heel attachment, dyeing and finishing.
Estimated completion late Jan 2020.
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View attachment 1291931
No problem guys.
I've read through your inputs and thoughts.
I think that as a group, we are most polarised in terms of whether we should go for contrast facing and heel counters, or not.
Personally, and not just in the interest of wanting the GMTO to happen (God knows I already have far too many shoes), I think the make up would work either way. Honest truth.
The pin grain itself is something that has a really subtle texture, especially from a distance, so it's not immediately apparent. It doesn't really add much in terms of "loudness" (if that's the worry). However, it does make things a little more interesting when you look at it close up.
Here is a link to some pictures, which I feel best represent the overall "look".
That being said, this make up is slightly different because the facing and heel counters are peaked. So it's already rather unique in that sense. So for the sake of not making things too busy, and if you were to put me on a spot, I would say no contrast. But of course, it's not a big deal to me.
With regards to colour, I have never handled a pair in Castagna Del Prete, so I'm not totally sure how dark it is. But I'll say this, Caffè Tostato is a really gorgeous shade of dark brown. Dark oak is really really dark, it's safe and still quite nice, but indoors it looks near black. So I think most folks would find Tostato preferable.
Hang on, weren't the heel counters meant to be peaked?