Anglo-Italian

[tgaith77]

Wow, way to be passive-aggresive. Thanks for your input @Viral

 

[Viral]

Wow, way to be passive-aggresive. Thanks for your input @Viral

not passive or aggressive - I replied when I came upon this thread. Can't post pictures on a public forum and only expect praise......that suit doesn't stand out in any way or have the type of fit I would expect from a MTM commission.

But hey........thanks for your input, chief!

 

[Spaghettimatt]

not passive or aggressive - I replied when I came upon this thread. Can't post pictures on a public forum and only expect praise......that suit doesn't stand out in any way or have the type of fit I would expect from a MTM commission.

But hey........thanks for your input, chief!

agree that you’re coming off as a real asshole here

his suit looks very good to me for first time MTM.

 

[mossrockss]

Usually don't get involved in these things, but, @Viral, is your issue with fit? Or style/aesthetic/cut/design?

Saying something doesn't stand out in any way to your eyes doesn't communicate anything meaningful so it comes across as unnecessarily mean. "Hey everyone, just popped in to say your suit sucks. If you like, though, that's good for you."

 

[JDMills]

As he stated he wanted something to fly under the radar but that has interesting details. I think it keeps the AI aesthetic (lower buttoning point, decent belly, that kick out on the lapel, some drape/extended shoulders) and looks good for a first time commission, though I find the trou a little slim. No it isn't perfect but its mtm at a decent price, and I think if he ordered a second and explained his points they could get an ever better result.

I'm also a big believer in wearing something a half dozen times to see how everything settles just my 0.02.

@arakeinprogress I think the fact that it is a softer coat means some shaping is good, I don't see the hip issue you're talking about, however we all see things others may not. I'd def notice the suit and silently think this guy knows whats up. Money well spent!

 

[Viral]

Usually don't get involved in these things, but, @Viral, is your issue with fit? Or style/aesthetic/cut/design?

Saying something doesn't stand out in any way to your eyes doesn't communicate anything meaningful so it comes across as unnecessarily mean. "Hey everyone, just popped in to say your suit sucks. If you like, though, that's good for you."

Thanks for your question bud.

Anglo-Italian stemmed from the Armoury family tree, or at least that's how I see it. The Armoury demonstrates their expertise in creating high-level garments and how they should fit, and I've never seen an ill-fitting garment in any of their photos, whether it's of their own team or their clients wearing their garments (OTR or commissioned).

In this case, based on the info/pics provided by the OP, AI has not demonstrated anything which truly is on the same level as the Armoury. Perhaps the garment is of a very high-standard (cloth, full canvas, construction details, etc.) but the fit is not to the same standard. If I were to put myself in the client's shoes, I would expect more, however I feel he is somewhat defending their under-performance and I can understand that given the amount of $$$ at play. But when he said that the sleeve fell down to mid-hand, and although it was a fitting which was still part of the process, that was a red flag to me. In this line of work, being "off" on a measurement should come down to an inch or cm, not 2-3.

To be clear, I didn't say it looks like **** or anything like that so all the sensitive folks need to chill. I simply said that the end product was quite average-looking to me. Why is that a problem? There is no wow-factor, nor does anything really strike me as being anything different from your average look. I've seen guys alter OTR JCrew and come off looking like a million bucks compared to the suit commissioned. IMO, anyone from The Armoury seeing this might be dismayed.

@mossrockss - I've seen you wear AE jeans with Eidos and it looked amazing. I certainly don't subscribe to the theory of spending a lot of money only to look average or to settle. Anything less than "wow" would be unacceptable to me.

 

[tgaith77]

See? That's helpful.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

Thanks for your question bud.

Anglo-Italian stemmed from the Armoury family tree, or at least that's how I see it. The Armoury demonstrates their expertise in creating high-level garments and how they should fit, and I've never seen an ill-fitting garment in any of their photos, whether it's of their own team or their clients wearing their garments (OTR or commissioned).

In this case, based on the info/pics provided by the OP, AI has not demonstrated anything which truly is on the same level as the Armoury. Perhaps the garment is of a very high-standard (cloth, full canvas, construction details, etc.) but the fit is not to the same standard. If I were to put myself in the client's shoes, I would expect more, however I feel he is somewhat defending their under-performance and I can understand that given the amount of $$$ at play. But when he said that the sleeve fell down to mid-hand, and although it was a fitting which was still part of the process, that was a red flag to me. In this line of work, being "off" on a measurement should come down to an inch or cm, not 2-3.

To be clear, I didn't say it looks like **** or anything like that so all the sensitive folks need to chill. I simply said that the end product was quite average-looking to me. Why is that a problem? There is no wow-factor, nor does anything really strike me as being anything different from your average look. I've seen guys alter OTR JCrew and come off looking like a million bucks compared to the suit commissioned. IMO, anyone from The Armoury seeing this might be dismayed.

@mossrockss - I've seen you wear AE jeans with Eidos and it looked amazing. I certainly don't subscribe to the theory of spending a lot of money only to look average or to settle. Anything less than "wow" would be unacceptable to me.

can you please explain what you dislike about the fit?

To my eyes it looks like the left shoulder is slightly off, and the trousers need to be let out and shortened a touch.

 

[circumspice]

The coat may need to be shorted at the collar- there seems to be some horizontal rolling across the upper back. This tends to occur on people with erect postures (I wave hello ), and the model coat is expecting more of a hunched shoulder. The alteration is to detach the collar, and remove some of the back length up top. Tough to get a read on the pants with hands in pockets, but they appear to be too tight in the seat.

 

[othertravel]

can you please explain what you dislike about the fit?

To my eyes it looks like the left shoulder is slightly off, and the trousers need to be let out and shortened a touch.

I concur with this. Looks like they didn't adjust for the drop shoulder. And if you're doing cuffs then you should have no break (a break looks messy with cuffs).

That said, looks good. Would give it a solid 8/10.

9/10 if they fixed the issues noted above.

 

[arakeinprogress]

@Viral you say all this as if I didn't mention nearly every one of these fit deficiencies in my review. I'm not trying to defend the under performance at all and I've openly admitted I might not commission anything else because of the issues. I did expect more for the time and the money involved. Frankly, I'd like them to take the suit back for a second round of alterations, but I'm not optimistic on that happening. My review is more honest than almost any you'll find elsewhere.

On quality, the suit is full canvas, includes a good deal of hand work in the jacket, and is very light. For comparison, I don't think RTW RJ includes handwork, but I could be wrong. More broadly, the comparison to The Armoury isn't quite fair either since The Armoury sells other companies' products and doesn't make their own line like AI. The line about never a single ill-fitted garment at The Armoury is obvious hyperbole. Not only is it by rules of probability almost certainly false, you wouldn't even know because they're not posting 360-degree diagnostic fit pics to the journal or to Instagram.

Your comment about OTR J Crew suits looking better than this is BS and you know it. Moreover, it such an obviously false and inflammatory comment that it does't even succeed in being hurtful, only in making you look like an idiot.

As for being shy about criticism, I'm not. I'm often my own harshest critic, but I also happen to enjoy being able to sound my thoughts off others who know about tailoring and my concerns have largely been confirmed in doing so.

Thanks for your question bud.

Anglo-Italian stemmed from the Armoury family tree, or at least that's how I see it. The Armoury demonstrates their expertise in creating high-level garments and how they should fit, and I've never seen an ill-fitting garment in any of their photos, whether it's of their own team or their clients wearing their garments (OTR or commissioned).

In this case, based on the info/pics provided by the OP, AI has not demonstrated anything which truly is on the same level as the Armoury. Perhaps the garment is of a very high-standard (cloth, full canvas, construction details, etc.) but the fit is not to the same standard. If I were to put myself in the client's shoes, I would expect more, however I feel he is somewhat defending their under-performance and I can understand that given the amount of $$$ at play. But when he said that the sleeve fell down to mid-hand, and although it was a fitting which was still part of the process, that was a red flag to me. In this line of work, being "off" on a measurement should come down to an inch or cm, not 2-3.

To be clear, I didn't say it looks like **** or anything like that so all the sensitive folks need to chill. I simply said that the end product was quite average-looking to me. Why is that a problem? There is no wow-factor, nor does anything really strike me as being anything different from your average look. I've seen guys alter OTR JCrew and come off looking like a million bucks compared to the suit commissioned. IMO, anyone from The Armoury seeing this might be dismayed.

@mossrockss - I've seen you wear AE jeans with Eidos and it looked amazing. I certainly don't subscribe to the theory of spending a lot of money only to look average or to settle. Anything less than "wow" would be unacceptable to me.

And this gem is particularly brash for someone who hasn't posted a single fit pic in over a decade of being a member of SF.

not passive or aggressive - I replied when I came upon this thread. Can't post pictures on a public forum and only expect praise......that suit doesn't stand out in any way or have the type of fit I would expect from a MTM commission.

But hey........thanks for your input, chief!

 

[arakeinprogress]

I think this encapsulates well how I feel about it, as a I did want to get away from some of the louder purchases of my earlier buying days.

As he stated he wanted something to fly under the radar but that has interesting details. I think it keeps the AI aesthetic (lower buttoning point, decent belly, that kick out on the lapel, some drape/extended shoulders) and looks good for a first time commission, though I find the trou a little slim. No it isn't perfect but its mtm at a decent price, and I think if he ordered a second and explained his points they could get an ever better result.

I'm also a big believer in wearing something a half dozen times to see how everything settles just my 0.02.

@arakeinprogress I think the fact that it is a softer coat means some shaping is good, I don't see the hip issue you're talking about, however we all see things others may not. I'd def notice the suit and silently think this guy knows whats up. Money well spent!

Yes, I agree. Something is a little off with the left shoulder and it annoys me. I think the left shoulder is more extended than the right, causing this problem. I intend to have the trousers let out and then shortened if necessary, on my own if AI won't do it.

I concur with this. Looks like they didn't adjust for the drop shoulder. And if you're doing cuffs then you should have no break (a break looks messy with cuffs).

That said, looks good. Would give it a solid 8/10.

9/10 if they fixed the issues noted above.

I agree on this point too. I've pointed it out to Alex, a second time now, and I'm waiting to hear back. I suppose the seat could be too tight, but only by the slimmest of margins. There is one picture from the rear with no hands in pockets.

The coat may need to be shorted at the collar- there seems to be some horizontal rolling across the upper back. This tends to occur on people with erect postures (I wave hello ), and the model coat is expecting more of a hunched shoulder. The alteration is to detach the collar, and remove some of the back length up top. Tough to get a read on the pants with hands in pockets, but they appear to be too tight in the seat.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

@Viral you say all this as if I didn't mention nearly every one of these fit deficiencies in my review. I'm not trying to defend the under performance at all and I've openly admitted I might not commission anything else because of the issues. I did expect more for the time and the money involved. Frankly, I'd like them to take the suit back for a second round of alterations, but I'm not optimistic on that happening. My review is more honest than almost any you'll find elsewhere.

On quality, the suit is full canvas, includes a good deal of hand work in the jacket, and is very light. For comparison, I don't think RTW RJ includes handwork, but I could be wrong. More broadly, the comparison to The Armoury isn't quite fair either since The Armoury sells other companies' products and doesn't make their own line like AI. The line about never a single ill-fitted garment at The Armoury is obvious hyperbole. Not only is it by rules of probability almost certainly false, you wouldn't even know because they're not posting 360-degree diagnostic fit pics to the journal or to Instagram.

Your comment about OTR J Crew suits looking better than this is BS and you know it. Moreover, it such an obviously false and inflammatory comment that it does't even succeed in being hurtful, only in making you look like an idiot.

As for being shy about criticism, I'm not. I'm often my own harshest critic, but I also happen to enjoy being able to sound my thoughts off others who know about tailoring and my concerns have largely been confirmed in doing so.



And this gem is particularly brash for someone who hasn't posted a single fit pic in over a decade of being a member of SF.

@Viral You just got dog-walked.

 

[RickyTakhar]

Anyone tried their OCBD's? Any could compare to other makers e.g. Drakes

 

[BenMN]

My closet is both Drakes and Anglo- Italian OCBDs, with a few Mercers still hanging on. I take the same size (16) in all.

In a nutshell, I think Drake's are a well-executed basic, and a good and unassuming "canvas" for their interesting ties, scarves, squares, etc...

AI's OCBD are much more stylish, and walk right up to, but do not cross over, the dramatic-flourish line.

Drake's shirts feel like toys to me, not sure how else to say it. Not meant in a pejorative way, I believe this is their intended aesthetic coming through...

Relative to Drake's, the AI OCBD is fuller all around (longer sleeves, overall length, chest width). Drakes MOP buttons are variegated, thin, and wide. AI buttons are MOP (I think), small, uniformly white, and thick.

Drake's collar is pretty good, lined with floating interlining. So is the placket. I prefer a Drake's if I am just wearing a shirt and trousers, in the summer, say. Although the button stance does not lend itself to having 2 (plus the collar) undone, I don't think. Their regular fit (in 16) fits me in a nice, slim way. I am 6'2", 175#.

AI OCBD collar is dramatic, in a good way, and it begs to be worn with 2 buttons undone. Fused interlining, as most Italians tend to do. Placket, though, has no interlining at all and I Love this.

I will add that I am a huge fan of the AI "ice blue" color. I find AI to be more formal than Drake's in general, but please understand that I am talking about 1 OCBD relative to another. AI also uses finer yarns.

I like them both, for different reasons. Generally prefer AI, though.