Advice for building a knitwear collection

[jdgershbein]

I have reinvented myself in business, which, from a style point of view, means new apparel choices to augment my brand. My latest wardrobe audit revealed a need to rethink my knitwear collection. Some sweaters on my shelves seemed like good ideas at the time, but with changing tastes and a loss of muscle mass from normal aging—today I am more a Size S than a Size M—the time was right to pare down and restock.

It is practical to have sweaters in different weights that cover a variety of climates (especially where I live). My best options are ultrafine Merino V-necks (over a shirt and underneath a suit, sports jacket, or shacket), Geelong button or zip mocks, cardigans, and rollnecks, and the occasional chunky jumper when the mercury plunges.

Magnificent knits can elevate an ensemble considerably. As the piece goods have become more expensive and manufacturers have leveled up their lines, my knitwear purchases today are more strategic. I buy for comfort, durability, versatility, and aesthetics. I also stay within my color palette—blues, browns, greens, neutrals, and the occasional burnt orange—and invest in pieces of impeccable quality. Fit, feel, and look are the triumvirate of menswear.

 

[Ddubs]

I have reinvented myself in business, which, from a style point of view, means new apparel choices to augment my brand. My latest wardrobe audit revealed a need to rethink my knitwear collection. Some sweaters on my shelves seemed like good ideas at the time, but with changing tastes and a loss of muscle mass from normal aging—today I am more a Size S than a Size M—the time was right to pare down and restock.

It is practical to have sweaters in different weights that cover a variety of climates (especially where I live). My best options are ultrafine Merino V-necks (over a shirt and underneath a suit, sports jacket, or shacket), Geelong button or zip mocks, cardigans, and rollnecks, and the occasional chunky jumper when the mercury plunges.

Magnificent knits can elevate an ensemble considerably. As the piece goods have become more expensive and manufacturers have leveled up their lines, my knitwear purchases today are more strategic. I buy for comfort, durability, versatility, and aesthetics. I also stay within my color palette—blues, browns, greens, neutrals, and the occasional burnt orange—and invest in pieces of impeccable quality. Fit, feel, and look are the triumvirate of menswear.

Thank you for your response.

When you say durability and aesthetics, in what sense do you mean if you don't mind me asking? Do you stear clear of cashmere for example due to its fragility comparatively to other fibres?

 

[Harwid]

I have not had any wear issues with cashmere. I do have plenty of sweaters so they are not worn too frequently.

I would instead look at the weight and construction of any sweater material. In the past I have had RLPL sweaters that were so thin I worried about damaging them putting them on or taking them off.

Jeff

 

[jdgershbein]

Thank you for your response.

When you say durability and aesthetics, in what sense do you mean if you don't mind me asking? Do you stear clear of cashmere for example due to its fragility comparatively to other fibres?

Hi Ddubs, I suppose I should have mentioned I am always on the lookout for quality cashmere pieces. Some time ago, I had to let go of several inexpensive Hart Schaffner & Marx V-necks that did not transition well. Otherwise, my selections have held up beautifully and, as you would expect, survived my last closet audit. I also have a few cashmere blends (90% merino) that have vaulted to the top of my rotation.

On a related note, I also have one sweater cut with yak fiber, which is not the most aesthetic garment I own, but man, does it keep me warm!

 

[GoneBabyGone]

Can anyone suggest a good seller of knitwear that has sizes for tall men? Longer in the body and longer sleeves.

 

[theconsigliere]

I'm also getting into knitwear, but after finding out how much it cost to make 1. I'm rethinking about it. I am wearing a couple of them for past 2 years. it's still looks good. I'm happy.

 

[breakaway01]

Do you stear clear of cashmere for example due to its fragility comparatively to other fibres?

Cashmere has this reputation because most consumers are only familiar with low quality cashmere. High quality cashmere has longer staple lengths (longer fibers) that make a much more durable yarn, and they are generally knit more densely. I've seen a number of vintage Scottish cashmere sweaters from the 1960s (e.g. Pringle) and they still look and feel virtually like new.

 

[theconsigliere]

I'm definitely interested in it. I can't wait to try on something that's suitable for the colder season. My collection so far it's been summer and plain colours.

 

[Hₑighthere]

Can anyone suggest a good seller of knitwear that has sizes for tall men? Longer in the body and longer sleeves.

I used to recommend Girav, until they ceased shipping to the UK, failed to change their shipping pages, and gave me a boilerplate response about Brexit that left it entirely unclear why the change happened after I last bought from them in November 2023. But if they ship to your country their knitwear is worth a look.

2tall is at least worth a glance; I found the jumper I bought from them was wide in the wrists, but then my build is very slim.

Otherwise, Son of a Tailor for MTM.

Edit: I'm assuming that by 'good' you mean serviceable, not high-end. I don't know of any 'luxury' RTW options that cater to tall builds.

 

[Markus123456789]

As somebody who has bought too much knitwear in retrospect I would do the following. This based on my preferences and the climate where I live (Central Europe, increasingly hot summers, quite cold winters).

1) Two cardigans: (I) navy shawl-collar like Luca Faloni‘s or Colhay‘s lambswool, (II) my Colhay‘s tennis cardigan in oatmeal

2) Four crewnecks: (I) grey, (II) navy, (III) Shetland in an earthy colour, (IV) one light navy cotton like the one from Jon Smedley

3) Three rollnecks: (I) heavy charcoal like the submariner of Colhay‘s, (II) the natural coloured Rubato, (III) a cream Merino knit to wear with tailoring

4) Two polo necks: (I) the dark brown from William Crabtree, (II) a thin merino in either navy or charcoal

5) One vest: I have a very muted Fairisle one in Shetland wool from Campell‘ of Beauly with buttons

Failures I made:

1) Too much cashmere, I would now go for good lambswool instead.

2) Too many pieces of merino. I like the rollnecks but never really wear the crew- or v-necks