Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Now that most of my jackets and suits have appeared in WAYWRN, I can post a comparison of Attolini, Rubinacci, and Steed. Feel free to vote for whichever maker's demonstrated work that you like best.

Note that all items are bespoke except a few of the Attolinis, which are MTO/M through a Milan retailer. I'll show these MTM/O items first because they were my first orders chronologically. My physique and fabric/pocket/button preferences create a common denominator. The garments otherwise represent house styles.

If you're wondering, I did in fact enjoy working with all three of the firms and look forward to future orders from each. Only one of the pieces shown - discussed in other threads - failed to meet my expectations. Since I no longer live and work in Europe, ordering is now harder for me than it used to be. Given the chance, my next purchase would be a Rubinacci from Naples.

Enjoy.



Attolini

Attolini #1 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)


Attolini #2 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)


Attolini #3 (MTO/M from Milan retailer)


Attolini #4 (bespoke from Naples)


Attolini #5 (bespoke from Naples)


Attolini #6 (bespoke from Naples)


Attolini #7 (bespoke from Naples)


Attolini #8 (bespoke coat from Naples)


Rubinacci

Rubinacci #1 (bespoke from Milan)


Rubinacci #2 (bespoke from Milan)


Rubinacci #3 (bespoke from Milan)


Steed by Edwin DeBoise

Steed #1 (bespoke from London)


Steed #2 (bespoke from London)


Steed #3 (bespoke from London)


Steed #4 (bespoke from London)


Steed #5 (bespoke from London)


Extra credit: Castangia

Castangia #1 (MTM/O from Luxembourg retailer)

This thread should be pinned.

I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Click to expand...

I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.

Surprisingly , I prefer the suits/jackets made by Steed...Better balance.

I did find the sleeves a bit short on your Rubinacci jackets.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

Click to expand...

I love all of your jackets except the bespoke from London. The waist treatment and buttoning is horrendous.
I agree. Not a Steed fan overall, so keep that in mind, though.

The Steeds you have look bad from button point down. Looks like the hip area of the coat is cut too small. The button point seems too low as well.

I'm all for the Steed. The suit's drape, waist suppression, and button stance look perfect to me. The suit looks better than the sports coats because the jacket works well with the cut of the trousers. None of the other trousers look as nice as the Steed trousers.

Raking IMO:
Steed
Neapolitan Attolini
Rubinacci
Milanese Attolini

I think it goes a bit like this.

Attolini
Rubinacci
Castangia
and because I have to include them, Steed (this is a comment that relates only to the stuff you've got. I've seen Steed elsewhere that works fine. This stuff doesn't to my eye)

Originally Posted by Hany

Click to expand...

Raking IMO:
Steed
Neapolitan Attolini
Rubinacci
Milanese Attolini

agreed.

I really like the leanness of the Castagania and would have voted for that if it were on the list. After that, all three are pretty close. The Attolini, but only just, followed by Rubinacci followed by Steed. Steed went a bit overboard with the waist.

What I've noticed about Steed's waist treatments is that there is an inevitable asymmetry.

I say the Attolini. Bespoke is supposed to make you look your best, not every house style works for everyone. However, all your tailor pants or even some of casual pants are rather wonky, especially the Rubinacci number.

Firstly, thanks for a terrific thread - very informative.

To my own surprise, looking at all these pics, I find myself preferring the MTM from Attolini (and Castangia) to all the rest. I think this has mainly to do with the shoulders of the jackets - these seem to me to be more normal and in proportion (read narrower) compared to a lot of the bespoke jackets (particularly Steed), some of which seem slightly over-extended. Attolini #1 is particularly successful IMO - though that's probably the subtle roping doing it for me. I also remain of the opinion that slightly slimmer trousers would do wonders for the balance of that grey Steed suit.

Needless to say, this is all nit-picking at the highest level and most of this looks great - the exception being those white jeans that are in desperate need of hemming.

You need some/more structure in your shoulders. With your build you can't carry an unpadded/lightly padded shoulder. It makes the tailoring look sloppy.