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  1. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Pray tell how well does the Piacenza First Class drape, and how resistant is it to wrinkling?
  2. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I think all the options I discussed above (Explorer, Fox Air, Ascot, Tropicalaire) would be appropriate for suits, so I am not sure which to select for a pair of odd trousers. You could consider the Harrisons Sea Shell though. I haven't tried it but heard good things about the bunch, which has a...
  3. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I agree with Crispyj’s observation about the drape and hand of the Standeven Explorer. I have three suits in that cloth and find it very dependable. While I found the Fox Air to be more wrinkle prone than the Explorer, I did not find it to be otherwise inferior. The only Tropicalaire suit I have...
  4. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Not the same, but reminds of something from Lanificio Di Pray that I saw in a Japanese wholesaler's catalogue during Lecteur's trunk show.
  5. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Not sure if there is a consensus, but I have tried Alumo's Zephir Soyella 7171 5402 1000 as a business shirt and found it incredibly light, breathable and luxurious, so I believe it will may make up well as a dinner shirt. However, I have not tried it myself, my main concern being that it may be...
  6. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    I would add the Standeven Explorer and Alfred Brown x Merino Brothers to the list of good high twists. VBC/Drapers Ascot 4 ply as some others have mentioned too. I haven't tried Harrisons Spring Ram or H&S Airesco but they look to have some nice browns too. I find Fox City comparable to the...
  7. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Apologies for the late response but I totally agree with the other posters on the New Fine Worsted. Not a bad cloth but in terms of wrinkle resistance and how well it drapes, the Fox Air, Tropicalair and VBC 4 ply are much better in my experience. Tropicalair is great too, and I suspect that at...
  8. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     Delfino has a bunch with solaros, and I believe it is called Gabardine and Solaro in Pure Wool Super 130’S": http://www.carnet.it/en/46-gabardina-solaro Edit: I have not tried this particular bunch myself but I have been very pleased with a coat from their "Blue" bunch (in a hemp-wool...
  9. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     Thus far my only experiences with wool-silk-linen have been Drapers Estate and Holland and Sherry Notting Hill from 2013. Interestingly I found my coats from these two bunches to be cool wearing, drape well and are crease resistant. I do not recall their exact composition, but both are...
  10. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     Yes it does feel pretty dry, but doesn't look as porous as Minnis fresco. That being said it is relatively cool wearing for tropical weather in view of its weight (360 gms). Sorry for the late response. I hope Huddersfield would release more designs in the Vintage High Twist bunch...
  11. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     I have only had experience with HC's High Twist that I made up into a pair of trousers years ago. It falls very nicely and resists wrinkles well.
  12. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Have not had any experience with the 3 ply mohair blend, but I have a suit in the Halstead Explorer 2 ply by 2 ply (320/340 gms), which I find a little less cool wearing than ~300 gms British worsteds. The Halstead 3 ply mohair blend felt stiffer and looked less porous to me IIRC, so I would not...
  13. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     It's an interesting bunch. Surprisingly heavy though (430 gms).
  14. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     My experience with VBC Perennial has been similar.
  15. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     Yes, I've ordered swatches and cloth from Pepper Lee before, no problems. My experiences ordering from Harrisons of Edinburgh have also been very positive. AFAIK Dormeuil doesn't sell directly to end users.
  16. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     Apart from the prickliness I find that the 100% summer kid mohair hangs well and is comfortable to wear. I've also had a suit in their Explorer range ( 2-ply by 2-ply, 27% mohair; probably adult) that feels a little more prickly and also feels pretty stiff, appreciably more stiff than the...
  17. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     I'm not familiar with the Smith Woolens' Formal bunch per se but the other bunches I've had experience with have been excellent. I have a length of William Halstead 100% summer kid mohair that I intend to make up into a tuxedo. It is 260-280 gms and comes in black and midnight blue. I made...
  18. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     +1. H. Lesser 9.5/10 was marvellous cloth. I understand that Harrisons is not reissuing it because it is too similar in weight to the Frontier. While the extent of my experience with the Frontier has been with physical bunches, I've never heard anyone who has had experience with both say...
  19. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     I love the Blue Riband bunch myself. My suits from that bunch are not the most breathable but I find them wearable in the tropical heat. I have not used Schofield & Smith before but I understand that their Best English Tradition bunch has grey sharkskins...
  20. CrimsonWave

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

     I have a suit made from their Perennial range (worsted suiting, 260 gms) that turned out very well, and I've since ordered another suit in the same design but in a different colour. However I still prefer my vintage H. Lesser 9.5 and Smith Woolens Blue Riband suits, which have a very dry...

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