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Recent content by Roger Kearey
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
All I know is that they have a long established full bespoke offering from their London House. I have no idea regarding the history. You never see any press but they are there.- Roger Kearey
- Post #13,409
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Dunhill still have a bespoke dept.- Roger Kearey
- Post #13,405
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Ah yes. They had this tasty White seersucker with Blue & Red stripe thing a few of my customers liked. Narrow as F***. The representative in the UK for Caccioppoli and Drago is the hardest working hero in cloth because their stocks disappear weekly and from hour to hour sometimes.- Roger Kearey
- Post #38,508
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Just to note, some random cloths can be narrower from merchants and in bunches. Happened a few times when you lay a customers pattern to get the length to order. Get the cloth and as soon as you lay it on your cutting bench you can see its narrower. A customer would order say 4 of the same...- Roger Kearey
- Post #38,488
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
Is this the one on the previous page? From the photo’s, it’s short in the front balance and long in the back. The shoulder angles don’t seem to have been accounted for and the balance isn’t helping. The sleeves aren’t really hanging nicely. The shoulder padding looks off but this could also...- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,443
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
you shouldn’t lose much or any of the proportions of the collar if done nicely. Or any that would be noticeable but there are competent tailors and competent tailors. Also depends how that area is put together. I don’t have experience with RTW or MTM but it should be ok as it will be removing...- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,435
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread
Over the years, they’ve always seemed to be in and out of business- Roger Kearey
- Post #38,212
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions
What it says on the tin. It means to shorten the length of the collar, which will allow the lapel to roll lower. If you gently pull the lapel from the notch up, you’ll see the lapel roll lower down the coat which is the effect of taking some length from the collar.- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,433
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
If you have an established pattern, the cut shouldn't change unless you have another fitting on it with a cutter other than the one that originally cut it and significant changes are made. Just saw briefly that there are mentions of getting a different feel of garment from the same tailors...- Roger Kearey
- Post #11,179
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
a 7oz Super 180 would test anyone- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,987
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Oh my bad. Thought it was to me but was for Permanent Style. From the darkness I arise.- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,805
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
Haha. Expressed too many feels, now left hurt and ashamed. Back to the darkness from whence I came.- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,802
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
That’s why I said that its up to you to decide what you want from your bespoke experience/order. If you want one person to measure, cut, fit, make and finish something, you can visit me in my home, have a coffee and a chat at the table you are helping put food on. You can go to Savile Row...- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,800
- Forum: Classic Menswear
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Ongoing Bespoke Projects
There are a few they can do it all. It depends on your training and forced labour experience. I was trained as a cutter whilst also had to do alterations, make coats, trousers and waistcoats and then its up to you whether you want to learn them enough to gain proficiency outside of your main...- Roger Kearey
- Post #10,790
- Forum: Classic Menswear