SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[WoolyLamb]

Is there a specific metric for hem vs shoe size?

 

[ppk]

Is there a specific metric for hem vs shoe size?

I have read that the hem should cover 2/3rd of the shoe - don't remember where, though.

 

[JTrent82]

I think I would buy that Moon jacket if it lacked the overcheck.

 

[Stylewords]

It depends on your shoe size, and inseam. A shorter inseam will end higher up the taper and will have a wider opening.

for me, 8.5 would be ideal but half an inch less hardly makes it comical. It is in line with other RTW brands in this space, Natalino is just under 8, Cavour Mod 3 is 8, Anglo Italian 7.5, Drake’s 8.3. The only RTW brand making wider than 8.5 to my knowledge is Berg & Berg.

I think there's a big difference between 8, 8.25 and 8.5. The problem is proportion and taper. If the top block gets bigger and the hem stays the same or gets smaller (S&M 34 contemporary used to be over 8 inches) then the taper does look comical. Natalino, for example, has some good pieces, but the wide thighs and sharp taper on their trousers looks ridiculous to me.

 

[Harachel]

The grenadine ties are back up. They’ve got an info page specifically about them. I’ve usually thought of grenadine as a way to get solid-colour ties with more interesting texture, but what does everyone think of the patterns on offer?

The price is a few dollars less than Kent Wang’s grenadines. It will be interesting to see how they compare in quality.

Spier & Mackay

Spier & Mackay

www.spierandmackay.com

 

[dhizzy]

Looking for some feedback on how the grey trousers fit. They're the hightwist mid gray in 32 contemporary. I'm 6'3, 162 with a 32 waist, but I usually wear a 31 trouser.

I'm trying to break my wardrobe out of slim fit and incorporate more interesting cuts with some room to move. My fiance thinks they are too baggy around the thigh and seat area. My instinct is to agree, but I've been so pigeonholed into slim fit everything for so long that my eye may be fooling me.

For comparison, I threw on a pair of navy twist Cavour Mod 3 trousers in size 48 (31 US) that I think fit me close to spot on. Both pairs are still unhemmed but I tried to fold them to simulate the drape when hemmed. I wish S&M still stocked a size 31 OTR to compare. Sorry about the dirty mirror. I don't have a camera setup, but hopefully the images are clear enough to make out the fit of the trousers.

 

[ptfly]

I am 6'1" and pretty close to your weight and find the 1/2" extra in the contemporary fit leg opening doesn't make much difference to me. It looks more like a carrot silhouette to me.
Like you I find the seat to thigh a bit too roomy compared to the slim on my body. A shorter person may differ but at our inseam the hem taper is more severe. I assume you are in the 33" inseam range which only allows for a blind hem.
I too have just stayed with 32 slim as I only have to alter the hem. More narrow at the leg opening than I would prefer but until I find another alternative without a lot of alterations, 32 slim is my size.

 

[dhizzy]

I am 6'1" and pretty close to your weight and find the 1/2" extra in the contemporary fit leg opening doesn't make much difference to me. It looks more like a carrot silhouette to me.
Like you I find the seat to thigh a bit too roomy compared to the slim on my body. A shorter person may differ but at our inseam the hem taper is more severe. I assume you are in the 33" inseam range which only allows for a blind hem.
I too have just stayed with 32 slim as I only have to alter the hem. More narrow at the leg opening than I would prefer but until I find another alternative without a lot of alterations, 32 slim is my size.

I'm a 34 inseam, so yeah, the leg does seem to taper a bit more than I'd like and I can't have it hemmed to a cuff OTR. I think the "carrot" look is being exaggerated by my bad camera angle and the mirror. It looks more straight to my eye in person. My main issue with the slim is the rise is just too low. I may try a 31 contemporary in MTO, but I want to be sure that will work for me before I pull the trigger on a non-returnable pair.

 

[ptfly]

I'm a 34 inseam, so yeah, the leg does seem to taper a bit more than I'd like and I can't have it hemmed to a cuff OTR. I think the "carrot" look is being exaggerated by my bad camera angle and the mirror. It looks more straight to my eye in person. My main issue with the slim is the rise is just too low. I may try a 31 contemporary in MTO, but I want to be sure that will work for me before I pull the trigger on a non-returnable pair.

I like the slightly higher rise of the contemp as well. I can't seem to find a quick and qualified alterations person locally. I have gone the MTO route successfully on a few classifications but not trousers. I should look at that as well.
I generally ordered slim high rise in dress trousers if possible for the rise.
At a 32" inseam and 1.75" cuff, I am at the limit and I am only 6'1". The unaltered inseams used to be longer
Fingers crossed for you. Pls keep us posted.

 

[blewnote1]

Looking for some feedback on how the grey trousers fit. They're the hightwist mid gray in 32 contemporary. I'm 6'3, 162 with a 32 waist, but I usually wear a 31 trouser.

I'm trying to break my wardrobe out of slim fit and incorporate more interesting cuts with some room to move. My fiance thinks they are too baggy around the thigh and seat area. My instinct is to agree, but I've been so pigeonholed into slim fit everything for so long that my eye may be fooling me.

For comparison, I threw on a pair of navy twist Cavour Mod 3 trousers in size 48 (31 US) that I think fit me close to spot on. Both pairs are still unhemmed but I tried to fold them to simulate the drape when hemmed. I wish S&M still stocked a size 31 OTR to compare. Sorry about the dirty mirror. I don't have a camera setup, but hopefully the images are clear enough to make out the fit of the trousers.

I like the taper on the grey trousers better. If you need a slight reduction in the waist/hips (which I don't think you do), it's an easy fix for a tailor. Remember, it's much easier to take in than to let out.

 

[wafflingwaffles]

Has anyone ever found that Spier suits have bad QC on lapel roll? I have 2 suits where the 2-button jackets "want" to roll to the lower button. After pressing, the issue is fixed for about a month, then the lapel rolls back to the lower button. Tailor has advised that it's just bad construction.

 

[SteveMc]

Looking for some feedback on how the grey trousers fit. They're the hightwist mid gray in 32 contemporary. I'm 6'3, 162 with a 32 waist, but I usually wear a 31 trouser.

I'm trying to break my wardrobe out of slim fit and incorporate more interesting cuts with some room to move. My fiance thinks they are too baggy around the thigh and seat area. My instinct is to agree, but I've been so pigeonholed into slim fit everything for so long that my eye may be fooling me.

For comparison, I threw on a pair of navy twist Cavour Mod 3 trousers in size 48 (31 US) that I think fit me close to spot on. Both pairs are still unhemmed but I tried to fold them to simulate the drape when hemmed. I wish S&M still stocked a size 31 OTR to compare. Sorry about the dirty mirror. I don't have a camera setup, but hopefully the images are clear enough to make out the fit of the trousers.

I'm with your fiancé on this. IMO trousers do baggy a bit around that area.
Thigh and waist are indeed an easy fix. The hip area is a bit more complex because of the pockets. I've done this alteration once an it rendered the front pockets unusable. It's ok looks wise, but kind of disappointing.

I'm also similar to your size (slightly less tall at 6') and I take 30 contemporary and let out the waist a bit. I've also tried 32 slim and I find them just as baggy around the hip area as the 32 contemporary only with a bigger taper. I stick with 30 contemporary.

 

[SteveMc]

There are a couple of non-iron shirts up. I'm not a fan but if you are, this is it.

 

[JHud]

So I’m a longtime customer of S&M with 6 OTR suits from them. Today I received a suit from their most recent collection, and the pants are WAY wider than usual. My wife walked in the room and burst out laughing, which is never a good sign lol. Not sure what’s going on here, but I may be off the train this year.

 

[sydneycider]

So I’m a longtime customer of S&M with 6 OTR suits from them. Today I received a suit from their most recent collection, and the pants are WAY wider than usual. My wife walked in the room and burst out laughing, which is never a good sign lol. Not sure what’s going on here, but I may be off the train this year.

We've all been asking for wider trousers, this may be a problem specific to you.