Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Sreezy36]

Anyone know which worsted flannel to look at these days that’s on the heavier side (400g plus)? I’ve converged on worsted flannel as a more “workhorsish” winter alternative to woolen flannel for routine business wear.

H&S and VBC have some around 280g that I just cannot trust. Harrisons come closest at 340g (any takes on this?). I can’t find anything on Fox’s website. Any ideas?

2080 from Taylor & Lodge is the only worsted flannel around in the 14/15oz range. The web page only displays 3 colors but the bunch book contains many more colors and patterns.

Iconic Collection — Taylor & Lodge

www.taylorandlodge.com

 

[JHWilliams]

Anyone know which worsted flannel to look at these days that’s on the heavier side (400g plus)? I’ve converged on worsted flannel as a more “workhorsish” winter alternative to woolen flannel for routine business wear.

H&S and VBC have some around 280g that I just cannot trust. Harrisons come closest at 340g (any takes on this?). I can’t find anything on Fox’s website. Any ideas?

Worsted flannel is such a confusing term. It is basically worsted wool with a bit of milling. You will never get the gorgeous marl, drape, and hand feel of a woollen flannel.

 

[lordsuperb]

Worsted flannel is such a confusing term. It is basically worsted wool with a bit of milling. You will never get the gorgeous marl, drape, and hand feel of a woollen flannel.

Woolen flannel isn’t suitable for repeated use.

 

[物の哀れ]

What's the best Minnis Fresco for a blazer suit?

510252 (navy), 510258 (navy), or 510259 (dark navy)?

@gdl203 - Which cloth did you use for your collaboration with Sartoria Carerra and why?

@koolbear - Did you warm to your 510258 suit?

I have a blazer suit in the 8/9oz 510219 (navy), but I'd like to try the 9/10z. At the time, my tailor guided me towards 510220 (dark navy), but I shied away, somewhat to my regret.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Anyone know which worsted flannel to look at these days that’s on the heavier side (400g plus)? I’ve converged on worsted flannel as a more “workhorsish” winter alternative to woolen flannel for routine business wear.

H&S and VBC have some around 280g that I just cannot trust. Harrisons come closest at 340g (any takes on this?). I can’t find anything on Fox’s website. Any ideas?

I have trousers made out of the Harrisons. Not as soft as woollen flannel ones but they keep the crease better.

 

[Noirkw]

Alright guys, so I’m looking for a specific fabric idea. My idea is an ocean blue pow or windowpane. Probably pow with a yellow overcheck. Preferably wool - linen or a wool silk linen. Any suggestions? Thinking a sports jacket for vacations to wear with white linen trousers.


edit: yes, for those who are concerned for my tailor’s health, I will make sure he is sitting down when I present this idea!

Carlo Barbera jacketings on HFW

 

[circumspice]

What's the best Minnis Fresco for a blazer suit?

510252 (navy), 510258 (navy), or 510259 (dark navy)?

@gdl203 - Which cloth did you use for your collaboration with Sartoria Carerra and why?

@koolbear - Did you warm to your 510258 suit?

I have a blazer suit in the 8/9oz 510219 (navy), but I'd like to try the 9/10z. At the time, my tailor guided me towards 510220 (dark navy), but I shied away, somewhat to my regret.

View attachment 1980257
View attachment 1980259

Honestly, I think the question to be asking is if anyone would really do their blazer suit again. I never really got the impression that anyone found theirs to be a roaring success. The idea seemed to have a bit of a mania here a decade or so ago, but it certainly didn't become a new norm of StyFo wisdom.

 

[tim_horton]

The concept of a blazersuit never appealed to me. I’m glad I never went that route (and instead made a dozen+ other sartorial mistakes I later regretted.) Yes, some suits can be broken up into separates, particularly suits in a casual fabric. But many of the blazersuits were done in fabric that seemed much more appropriate for suiting, but with patch pockets, which look out of place on anything but the most casual suits (obviously IMHO.)

One of my Styleforum heresies, I guess.

 

[Sfba]

Any thoughts on the current state of Standeven’s Oxbridge flannel?

It’s marketed as a hybrid worsted/woolen flannel. Not sure if this is the best or worst of both worlds.

 

[jonathanS]

Carlo Barbera jacketings on HFW

I was thinking about that book. Thanks

 

[jonathanS]

The concept of a blazersuit never appealed to me. I’m glad I never went that route (and instead made a dozen+ other sartorial mistakes I later regretted.) Yes, some suits can be broken up into separates, particularly suits in a casual fabric. But many of the blazersuits were done in fabric that seemed much more appropriate for suiting, but with patch pockets, which look out of place on anything but the most casual suits (obviously IMHO.)

One of my Styleforum heresies, I guess.

agreed. I have 1, I just wear it as a suit. I gave up on the idea of splitting it - imo, it doesnt look right (and maybe I’m the only one who thinks that). It was almost an electric blue, came out brighter than anticipated, but gets a ton of compliments from women haha. It doesn’t even fit but they love the color. Anyways, I’ve worn it with jeans, but it never feels quite right.

 

[Sreezy36]

Any thoughts on the current state of Standeven’s Oxbridge flannel?

It’s marketed as a hybrid worsted/woolen flannel. Not sure if this is the best or worst of both worlds.

It sucks don’t buy it.

 

[Despos]

Anyone know which worsted flannel to look at these days that’s on the heavier side (400g plus)? I’ve converged on worsted flannel as a more “workhorsish” winter alternative to woolen flannel for routine business wear.

H&S and VBC have some around 280g that I just cannot trust. Harrisons come closest at 340g (any takes on this?). I can’t find anything on Fox’s website. Any ideas?

Ariston had some in 11/12 ounce that I used often for trousers and suits. Not sure if it’s still in their line.
Like Drapers too

 

[Despos]

Any thoughts on the current state of Standeven’s Oxbridge flannel?

It’s marketed as a hybrid worsted/woolen flannel. Not sure if this is the best or worst of both worlds.

A Worsted/Woollen blend of yarns is a serge cloth.
Some definitions of Saxony claim this too

 

[jonathanS]

Ariston had some in 11/12 ounce that I used often for trousers and suits. Not sure if it’s still in their line.
Like Drapers too

What’re you general thoughts on ariston? One of my friends / tailor told me he didn’t like ariston (he’s from napoli) because, according to him, that’s for mtm in China. I had never heard of that - wondering if you had a similar experience.

also to OP, Harrison’s, I believe, makes a nice worsted flannel. Having an old pre vbc drapers (woven by carlo barbera) worsted flannel made up now as well. Pretty excited about that suit.