Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[tim_horton]

Last question- what’s the consensus on Blue Riband’s drape and durability? Handle, dryness, etc.

Appreciate the feedback on LGB. It’s sad to hear how even Lesser’s flagship is now decidedly mediocre. The merger was a death sentence of a thousand cuts.

Another one you might want to check out is Holland & Sherry’s Perennial Classics. A smidge lighter than what you requested at 280 grams/9 oz., but it’s not an open weave and has a very broad range of solids, stripes and checks.

 

[Sfba]

@classicalthunde @JHWilliams @tim_horton @Sreezy36 @Despos

Thank you all for your insights! I’m honestly leaning toward Fox Brothers Worsted Classics after considering your comments. I like everything about its handle and weight. Only put off by the fact that it’s relatively new and lacks a track record.

Some of my own takes on H&S for the record:
My first suit was H&S Perennial collection. Lasted 6 years of brutal, almost careless, wear. Just a bit of unrefined finish. I’ve not gotten my hands on Cape Horn, but I recall @Despos once writing that Premier Cru has more guts for the same type of 1% cashmere cloth. As for Crispaire, I am unimpressed. Perhaps it was a utilitarian cloth 3+ years ago. Now after 4 trousers, I’m of the opinion that it’s gutless, feels like a high supers cloth, cannot shed wrinkles to save its life, and bags noticeably. My tailor tried to warn me. I didn’t listen.

 

[jonathanS]

@classicalthunde @JHWilliams @tim_horton @Sreezy36 @Despos

Thank you all for your insights! I’m honestly leaning toward Fox Brothers Worsted Classics after considering your comments. I like everything about its handle and weight. Only put off by the fact that it’s relatively new and lacks a track record.

Some of my own takes on H&S for the record:
My first suit was H&S Perennial collection. Lasted 6 years of brutal, almost careless, wear. Just a bit of unrefined finish. I’ve not gotten my hands on Cape Horn, but I recall @Despos once writing that Premier Cru has more guts for the same type of 1% cashmere cloth. As for Crispaire, I am unimpressed. Perhaps it was a utilitarian cloth 3+ years ago. Now after 4 trousers, I’m of the opinion that it’s gutless, feels like a high supers cloth, cannot shed wrinkles to save its life, and bags noticeably. My tailor tried to warn me. I didn’t listen.

Agreed on crispaire. I have a pair of trousers in this - never again. Give me drapers 4 ply or a fresco / fox air / finmeresco over crispaire.

 

[JHWilliams]

Long-time lurker, first time poster. I’m building out a wardrobe of 4-5 business suits. Work in south SF Bay Area, so hotter than SF but a generally mild clime.

What is the best book in the 300-350g range for workhorse worsteds? Looking for dry tough fabrics if possible. I’ve narrowed down several options:
1. SW Blue Riband- There is scant info on this book. Would appreciate any insight as to its handle.
2. Lesser LGB (11 oz)- I like the handle but have read here it’s not durable. FNB once wrote this is indestructible, but that was 15 years ago. Any thoughts on this?
3. Fox Worsted Classics- Acceptable dry handle. Has anyone had a something made up in this?
4. Premier Cru- Comes highly recommended by Despos. I’ve never felt it. How does its hand compare to the others?

I’ve experimented with Five Stars (now Superbio?), and I love the bunch but found the jacket too hot for five months out of the year. Bad experience with Dormeuil Royal Krono II. Will never trust the French again.

I plan to add 2-3 of Fresco 10 oz or maybe Fox City in the future, so please exclude suggestions of high twists/panamas from your recommendations.

Thank you in advance and glad to be joining this community of cloth psychopaths.

I was very impressed with Blue Riband Finmeryn when I flicked through the bunch. It is not what you would call a “dry” handle. Soft and luxurious to the touch. I have asked about this cloth on the thread and haven’t heard anything

Last question- what’s the consensus on Blue Riband’s drape and durability? Handle, dryness, etc.

Appreciate the feedback on LGB. It’s sad to hear how even Lesser’s flagship is now decidedly mediocre. The merger was a death sentence of a thousand papercuts.

I have been asking about Blue Riband, but no one on the forum seems to have experience with it. When I flicked through the book, the cloth was absolutely beautiful. Very soft handle.

Premier Cru and Dugdale Needle Ready have such little cashmere in them that it would not affect the durability in any way.

 

[jeremygo]

Now that the weather is getting warmer... my mind is naturally planning out things I'd like to wear in the fall/winter. I'm hoping to commission a MTO sportcoat from The Armoury and would love some advice on tweed/faux tweed cloth.

I'm in NYC and don't need anything super heavy. I've heard great things about Fox Somerset and Harrison's Moonbeam, which I've been told have a tweedy texture/appearance but are softer. In terms of color, looking for something in a deep/warm brown, ideally in a glen check/gun club with some additional colors thrown in.

 

[jonathanS]

Now that the weather is getting warmer... my mind is naturally planning out things I'd like to wear in the fall/winter. I'm hoping to commission a MTO sportcoat from The Armoury and would love some advice on tweed/faux tweed cloth.

I'm in NYC and don't need anything super heavy. I've heard great things about Fox Somerset and Harrison's Moonbeam, which I've been told have a tweedy texture/appearance but are softer. In terms of color, looking for something in a deep/warm brown, ideally in a glen check/gun club with some additional colors thrown in.

Fox has awesome tweeds. Check out lovat for tweeds too.

 

[FlowableFill]

Now that the weather is getting warmer... my mind is naturally planning out things I'd like to wear in the fall/winter. I'm hoping to commission a MTO sportcoat from The Armoury and would love some advice on tweed/faux tweed cloth.

I'm in NYC and don't need anything super heavy. I've heard great things about Fox Somerset and Harrison's Moonbeam, which I've been told have a tweedy texture/appearance but are softer. In terms of color, looking for something in a deep/warm brown, ideally in a glen check/gun club with some additional colors thrown in.

Loro Piana Sopra Visso is good.

Loro Piana Sopra Visso - Hall Madden

http://hallmadden.com

hallmadden.smugmug.com

 

[ladislav.jancik]

Now that the weather is getting warmer... my mind is naturally planning out things I'd like to wear in the fall/winter. I'm hoping to commission a MTO sportcoat from The Armoury and would love some advice on tweed/faux tweed cloth.

I'm in NYC and don't need anything super heavy. I've heard great things about Fox Somerset and Harrison's Moonbeam, which I've been told have a tweedy texture/appearance but are softer. In terms of color, looking for something in a deep/warm brown, ideally in a glen check/gun club with some additional colors thrown in.

You might consider P&H Lonedin

P & H – LONEDIN – Harrisons

P & H – LONEDIN

www.harrisons1863.com

 

[Marshak]

@classicalthunde @JHWilliams @tim_horton @Sreezy36 @Despos

Thank you all for your insights! I’m honestly leaning toward Fox Brothers Worsted Classics after considering your comments. I like everything about its handle and weight. Only put off by the fact that it’s relatively new and lacks a track record.

Some of my own takes on H&S for the record:
My first suit was H&S Perennial collection. Lasted 6 years of brutal, almost careless, wear. Just a bit of unrefined finish. I’ve not gotten my hands on Cape Horn, but I recall @Despos once writing that Premier Cru has more guts for the same type of 1% cashmere cloth. As for Crispaire, I am unimpressed. Perhaps it was a utilitarian cloth 3+ years ago. Now after 4 trousers, I’m of the opinion that it’s gutless, feels like a high supers cloth, cannot shed wrinkles to save its life, and bags noticeably. My tailor tried to warn me. I didn’t listen.

Yes.

Draper's 4ply > Crispaire
Harrison's Premier Cru > Cape Horn

 

[tim_horton]

Harrison's Moonbeam

I love Moonbeam. It’s got a lot of staples, and a bunch of interesting checks too. The hand is very soft.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Gents- what's a good rec for a dark brown hopsack? It'll be for something on the casual side. It'll end up as my go-to for traveling and those occasions where I want to wear a sportcoat but not be overdressed. Looking for three-season (s/s/f).

Thinking the commission will end up with patch pockets with flaps, swelled edges, likely quarter-lined, very lightly structured.

 

[Sfba]

Gents- what's a good rec for a dark brown hopsack? It'll be for something on the casual side. It'll end up as my go-to for traveling and those occasions where I want to wear a sportcoat but not be overdressed. Looking for three-season (s/s/f).

Thinking the commission will end up with patch pockets with flaps, swelled edges, likely quarter-lined, very lightly structured.

Fox Sport Coffee Basketweave

Fox Sport Coffee Basketweave WEIGHT: 290/320g or 10/11oz TYPE: Basketweave Jacketing The resort cloth; fitting for the golf courses of Miami to Mayfair fine dining. A colourful array of Hopsacks and Basketweave cloth, from ever classic Navy, understated Khaki green and to the more vibrant Capri...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

I love this book. Dry, airy, looks and feels like casual jacketing.

Don’t recommend this for trousers- they will look “off” in case you’re tempted to commission a blazersuit.

 

[ZMEH]

Gents- what's a good rec for a dark brown hopsack? It'll be for something on the casual side. It'll end up as my go-to for traveling and those occasions where I want to wear a sportcoat but not be overdressed. Looking for three-season (s/s/f).

Thinking the commission will end up with patch pockets with flaps, swelled edges, likely quarter-lined, very lightly structured.

Drapers' updated Montecarlo has a really nice shade of dark brown hopsack with bits of light brown melange which (IMO) gives a bit more visual interest/freshness compared to a solid coloured hopsack.

https://drapersitaly.it/fr-en/collection/30118/

 

[Sreezy36]

Now that the weather is getting warmer... my mind is naturally planning out things I'd like to wear in the fall/winter. I'm hoping to commission a MTO sportcoat from The Armoury and would love some advice on tweed/faux tweed cloth.

I'm in NYC and don't need anything super heavy. I've heard great things about Fox Somerset and Harrison's Moonbeam, which I've been told have a tweedy texture/appearance but are softer. In terms of color, looking for something in a deep/warm brown, ideally in a glen check/gun club with some additional colors thrown in.

New fox limited drop worsted faux tweed gunclub

The British Gunclub

The British Gunclub WEIGHT: 360/390g or 13/14oz This Fox drop is a worsted serge in a triple coloured gunclub; Scots Pine, Welsh slate, and Old English Blue. The Town and Country cloth. Features 150cm width Woven in England 100% Pure New Wool Dry Clean Only Your tailor will be able to advise of...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[Alias]

New fox limited drop worsted faux tweed gunclub

The British Gunclub

The British Gunclub WEIGHT: 360/390g or 13/14oz This Fox drop is a worsted serge in a triple coloured gunclub; Scots Pine, Welsh slate, and Old English Blue. The Town and Country cloth. Features 150cm width Woven in England 100% Pure New Wool Dry Clean Only Your tailor will be able to advise of...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

Looks neat, but I have enough unfunded liabilities as-is. Tempting!