Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[reidd]

I have a navy blazer in Finmeresco 4-ply. I think the numbers have changed since I got mine but I know mine is the 10/11oz. Its been good for a weight/handfeel performance standpoint but I have had some weird issues with it. The durability has not been quite as good as I would have hoped and it pills in a strange way. The pills are tiny bits of pure red that seem to rise to the surface at friction points. Almost as if the red in the dye has caused certain bits to fall out of the yarn. They are very small and not that noticeable, but with all the great high twist cloths on the market, I would probably not choose Finmeresco again.

 

[JHWilliams]

Is there any interest in a limited edition run of Lesser 16 sharkskin in this shade of grey? This was the same sharksin used in Phantom Thread. It would be the same finishing as the old Lesser 16.

 

[c689]

.

 

[classicalthunde]

Is there any interest in a limited edition run of Lesser 16 sharkskin in this shade of grey? This was the same sharksin used in Phantom Thread. It would be the same finishing as the old Lesser 16.

Is this the exact same shade as the DDL image below, or a lighter mid-grey shade?

16 oz is a bit too much for my needs

 

[lordsuperb]

Is there any interest in a limited edition run of Lesser 16 sharkskin in this shade of grey? This was the same sharksin used in Phantom Thread. It would be the same finishing as the old Lesser 16.

Birdseye would be better.

 

[JHWilliams]

Is this the exact same shade as the DDL image below, or a lighter mid-grey shade?

16 oz is a bit too much for my needs

Same shade

 

[camez_]

Is there any interest in a limited edition run of Lesser 16 sharkskin in this shade of grey? This was the same sharksin used in Phantom Thread. It would be the same finishing as the old Lesser 16.

I'd take a length

can you shoot me a dm how you'll get this going? thanks a lot

 

[reidd]

I have a navy blazer in Finmeresco 4-ply. I think the numbers have changed since I got mine but I know mine is the 10/11oz. Its been good for a weight/handfeel performance standpoint but I have had some weird issues with it. The durability has not been quite as good as I would have hoped and it pills in a strange way. The pills are tiny bits of pure red that seem to rise to the surface at friction points. Almost as if the red in the dye has caused certain bits to fall out of the yarn. They are very small and not that noticeable, but with all the great high twist cloths on the market, I would probably not choose Finmeresco again.

Come to think of it, I have only had one other tailoring cloth pill before and that was a blue Fresco from HFW. Similar to the Finmeresco, it was relatively minor and another piece I have in Fresco has not had any issues. I guess its not surprising that higher twist cloths tend to pill more since the yarns have more tension on them. No issues with my Crispaire or Drapers Ascot however.

 

[Despos]

posting this again as the misunderstanding repeats in this thread.
Fresco is not a high twist yarn. The only high twist cloth is SW4133 to SW4138 in the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book.
Verified with Smith Woolens, this is their response.

"We have to use High Twist core spun yarn for the lighter weight cloths in order for them to perform better, less creasing etc

The 3 & 4 ply along with the Mock Leno cloths use a lot of 21 micron yarn which already makes them bullet proof without the need for high twisting – same story with Springram, these coarser yarns don’t need added resilience."

 

[JHWilliams]

Birdseye would be better.

Not a fan of Birdseye

posting this again as the misunderstanding repeats in this thread.
Fresco is not a high twist yarn. The only high twist cloth is SW4133 to SW4138 in the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book.
Verified with Smith Woolens, this is their response.

"We have to use High Twist core spun yarn for the lighter weight cloths in order for them to perform better, less creasing etc

The 3 & 4 ply along with the Mock Leno cloths use a lot of 21 micron yarn which already makes them bullet proof without the need for high twisting – same story with Springram, these coarser yarns don’t need added resilience."

fresco is not a high twist yarn? Tell me more

 

[xizenta]

I think he meant Finmeresco in particular.

 

[reidd]

posting this again as the misunderstanding repeats in this thread.
Fresco is not a high twist yarn. The only high twist cloth is SW4133 to SW4138 in the Smith Woollens Finmeresco book.
Verified with Smith Woolens, this is their response.

"We have to use High Twist core spun yarn for the lighter weight cloths in order for them to perform better, less creasing etc

The 3 & 4 ply along with the Mock Leno cloths use a lot of 21 micron yarn which already makes them bullet proof without the need for high twisting – same story with Springram, these coarser yarns don’t need added resilience."

All yarns are twisted to one degree or another. The differentiation between a "high twist" and not high twist is totally up to manufacturer's stated descriptions. I don't believe there is a universal definition. Lot's of factors at play in yarn construction, but I cannot imagine HFW Fresco not being considered high twist.

 

[Despos]

I think he meant Finmeresco in particular.

Yes, my comment is about the finmeresco book.
Minnis fresco uses high twist 80's yarn.
Inquired about the Ascot cloth but they weren't sure. Will post if they respond.

 

[kolecho]

SW4111 or SW4112
SW4112 has more depth and looks more matte in direct light.
These work if you want a workhorse non descript dark blue suit. if you want a dressy blue suit would, choose another cloth type.

SW4110 is a gem. Blue/grey melange.
Think it would make a good all around suit.
Dark enough as a business suit but not so dark or formal as a dark navy.
It's the Smith Woollens version of Hardy Minnis 510251.

I have the blue/grey melange 4 ply from Drapers Ascot bunch which I think is identical to the SW one. It is indeed very versatile. I'd also recommend the dark grey version. It is quite rich, not dark and lifeless.

 

[Despos]

A

I have the blue/grey melange 4 ply from Drapers Ascot bunch which I think is identical to the SW one. It is indeed very versatile. I'd also recommend the dark grey version. It is quite rich, not dark and lifeless.

agree with you about the dark grey