Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[Tzerkuso]

Full suit?!

No, sports coat with mother of pearl buttons.

 

[classicalthunde]

Has anyone made up a length of Maison Hellard linens into a sport coat here? If so, how does it compare to the other linens on the market?

I'm looking for a green-ish sport coat for shoulder season (Sept to Oct and April-June) and am interested in the Cours d'eau. Haven't really had a full linen sport coat before...curious about the wrinkle recovery time, I'd ideally like to be able to wear it 1x per week or so...

 

[lordsuperb]

Has anyone made up a length of Maison Hellard linens into a sport coat here? If so, how does it compare to the other linens on the market?

I'm looking for a green-ish sport coat for shoulder season (Sept to Oct and April-June) and am interested in the Cours d'eau. Haven't really had a full linen sport coat before...curious about the wrinkle recovery time, I'd ideally like to be able to wear it 1x per week or so...

Wrinkle recovery? It’s linen!!!

 

[classicalthunde]

Wrinkle recovery? It’s linen!!!

Fair, I just dont want it to be a wrinkled mess every time I throw it on...fully understanding that it will get that way by the end of the day/evening but would rather it not start out that way.

Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree then...my WSL and silk-linen stuff tends too bounce back into shape after a couple days in the closet...was more attracted to the design than the fact that it was linen. I'm basically looking for a S/S fabric in green and dug the design of the Maison Hellard fabric

 

[Marshak]

Fair, I just dont want it to be a wrinkled mess every time I throw it on...fully understanding that it will get that way by the end of the day/evening but would rather it not start out that way.

Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree then...my WSL and silk-linen stuff tends too bounce back into shape after a couple days in the closet...was more attracted to the design than the fact that it was linen. I'm basically looking for a S/S fabric in green and dug the design of the Maison Hellard fabric

View attachment 1938279

No shape recovery. Your arms will look like an accordion and your back like a carpet with a corpse rolled in it, but that's the charm of linen! If you want a wrinkle free linen jacket look at that alien fabric from Harrisons they mixed up with terylen. Shell something.

More seriously the Hellard linen seems to be a good compromise between the soft Italian one and the more rigid Irish one. @Jmr928 has a suit in it and ordered more.

 

[FlowableFill]

Fair, I just dont want it to be a wrinkled mess every time I throw it on...fully understanding that it will get that way by the end of the day/evening but would rather it not start out that way.

Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree then...my WSL and silk-linen stuff tends too bounce back into shape after a couple days in the closet...was more attracted to the design than the fact that it was linen. I'm basically looking for a S/S fabric in green and dug the design of the Maison Hellard fabric

View attachment 1938279

Fox Brothers has a similar fabric in the Fox Journey book. It's a high twist 2-ply wool not a linen. I have a swatch of it and like it. It's on my to-do list.

Khaki Windowpane

Khaki Windowpane CODE: FJ15 WEIGHT: 285/315g or 10/11oz TYPE: Crisp, Dry Worsted A plain weave Khaki base featuring a navy windowpane deco. Fox Journey a wonderful two-ply worsted cloth, woven using an up-twisted fine wool. Inspired by The Grand Tour, it is a perfect travel companion. The open...

www.themerchantfox.co.uk

 

[JohnMRobie]

No shape recovery. Your arms will look like an accordion and your back like a carpet with a corpse rolled in it, but that's the charm of linen! If you want a wrinkle free linen jacket look at that alien fabric from Harrisons they mixed up with terylen. Shell something.

More seriously the Hellard linen seems to be a good compromise between the soft Italian one and the more rigid Irish one. @Jmr928 has a suit in it and ordered more.

Maison Hellard’s bunch is kind of interesting in that there are I think three different weaves in the spring/summer collection. I’ve got the plain weave solid made up into a suit but it’s a different weight and weave than the patterned options. It’s also a totally different hand and is more crisp. The twills are much softer feeling and a hair heavier.

A friend had one of the twills made up into a sport coat last summer and I think the creasing always looks more moderate on him than on my suit. It’s obviously still a linen and has plenty of rumpling but it isn’t the sharp creases like traditional linen. I notice most of the rumples at the elbows and lower back but nothing that would put me off having it in the collection as a casual sport coat (and why I ordered a suit in the twill with the RAF windowpane project that Nathan graciously made up)

On that note - My length made it to Italy along with a nice note from him. really excited for this shade for a summer suit and glad I got my order in before they sold out.

 

[The_Schmidt]

I am just about to get my first ever linen suit - made from the normal Maison Hellard bunch. And I also got another suit length of the limited edition La Dôle one, very excited to get it done next spring.
However, as it is my first order in Maison Hellard I have not really much I can tell you. During the fitting it felt very light as expected but not too flimsy. We will see about that though, once I wear it in the office…

One thing to note, there are two different qualities they carry. The one you posted a 2x2 twill in 360g/m and the one I used for my suit as a plain weave in 330g/m. Not sure if they really differ noticably enough.

 

[Alias]

Maison Hellard’s bunch is kind of interesting in that there are I think three different weaves in the spring/summer collection. I’ve got the plain weave solid made up into a suit but it’s a different weight and weave than the patterned options. It’s also a totally different hand and is more crisp. The twills are much softer feeling and a hair heavier.

A friend had one of the twills made up into a sport coat last summer and I think the creasing always looks more moderate on him than on my suit. It’s obviously still a linen and has plenty of rumpling but it isn’t the sharp creases like traditional linen. I notice most of the rumples at the elbows and lower back but nothing that would put me off having it in the collection as a casual sport coat (and why I ordered a suit in the twill with the RAF windowpane project that Nathan graciously made up)

On that note - My length made it to Italy along with a nice note from him. really excited for this shade for a summer suit and glad I got my order in before they sold out.
View attachment 1938337

I was able to get some of this too, I was worried when the site said "sold out" but it turned out that the tailor I'm using got a length for me. Might not be able to fund it this year but it will be in the queue for next.

 

[Despos]

Another option. Really like the wool/linen hopsack. Linen Twill jacketing, Linen Solaro and a good range of solids

 

[jonathanS]

Another option. Really like the wool/linen hopsack. Linen Twill jacketing, Linen Solaro and a good range of solids
View attachment 1938487

View attachment 1938493 View attachment 1938495

Is that more of an olive solaro? Interesting, I was looking at that book. I may order a linen suit in one of their blues that caught my eye. I’ll have to see it in person.

But, as noted previously, apparently drapers is also doing their linens in England / Scotland

 

[bourbonbasted]

Another option. Really like the wool/linen hopsack. Linen Twill jacketing, Linen Solaro and a good range of solids

Spoiler

View attachment 1938487

View attachment 1938493 View attachment 1938495

I have a suit in a Zegna 50/50 wool/linen (big shouts to @edmorel). I find it's the best of both worlds -- a little slubby, a little wrinkly, but holds a crease well and egregious rumples fall out overnight. Best of all, it has a hopsack-y weave that keeps it airy and breathable. I've worn it to multiple tropical weddings and it wore nice and light.

Wool/linen is a great compromise if you don't want the full-on louche linen look.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Also a fan of wool/linen blends. Marling and Evans has a number of great wool/linen blends. I've got a steel gray hopsack sportcoat with one of their fabrics that has been a "wear with everything" blazer.

 

[Despos]

Linen/wool blends are a favorite with me. Wool compliments and tempers the linen and vice versa.
Like bourbon basted said, "best of both worlds".
Same for cotton/linen blend shirtings

Think it was from Drapers, years ago, a wool/cotton Calvary twill that I loved for trousers. Haven't seen that for decades.

 

[double00]

i've said it before and i'll say it again : an intelligent blend is most often greater than the sum of its parts