Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

[camez_]

I’m not specifically looking for flannels, this was in response to a query of mine for a suggestion for patterned blue/navy odd jackets - Glen plaids, Glen checks, windowpanes… anything that wasn’t a solid and wouldn’t be mistaken for an orphaned suit jacket.

I agree, 290 grams seems a bit light for flannel in general.

just go with standeven's oxbridge or fox' flannel

vbc has 360g and 340g in the same bunch but the consensus is that they're thinner/weaker and the british ones have the upper hand in comparison

 

[Concordia]

A great combination, tweed on the jacket, cavalry twill on the trousers. London Lounge.

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I have both almost finished at W&S.

 

[Roger Kearey]

Caccioppoli are narrower. Happened to one of my tailors & he needed to order more fabric but caccioppoli discontinued the fabric. We had to find a new fabric.

Ah yes. They had this tasty White seersucker with Blue & Red stripe thing a few of my customers liked. Narrow as F***.

The representative in the UK for Caccioppoli and Drago is the hardest working hero in cloth because their stocks disappear weekly and from hour to hour sometimes.

 

[oldworldelegance]

I have both almost finished at W&S.

If you can please share the pictures here and/or at the LL.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Anyone else relate?

 

[CLH03]

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Anyone else relate?

What’s life without a little excitement?

 

[The Chai]

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Anyone else relate?

I actually have not had a bad fabric purchase on ebay as of yet...but now that I have said it I may have just jinxed myself

 

[ZRH1]

Anyone who's made a coat in Fox's military grade overcoating fabrics? I guess a full length coat in such a heavy weight would be a bit too much? What'd be a good model for such a heavy cloth? A shorter coat, e.g. a peacoat perhaps?

I have a CT15 at 750 made in an Ulster and am thinking CT24 at 850 because it is denser. The weight is considerable however on the 750, so from my understanding I would lose in volume/bulk, which is what I am after.

 

[ZRH1]

Typically, bolts of cloth are 1.5m wide. So a meter of that would actually measure 1 x 1.5m square.

to add to this. Linen is at times half.

 

[tim_horton]

Anyone else relate?

Yes. I’ve stopped buying/hoarding cloth. It’s not worth the hassle. I tell my tailor what I’m looking for in general terms (i.e. dark grey mohair ~10 Oz.), he recommends a few, and I pick one. Much less stress that way. Results are much better than when I tried to source my own fabric. And no more lugging lengths of fabric to hotel rooms like I’m doing a drug deal.

And I sometimes I’ll be pleasantly surprised at what he picks.

 

[ZRH1]

I cannot agree more. I was enamoured will all things vintage a while back, buying loads at outlets like Vecchio Drappiere and Lafayette Saltiel. I precisely use one, yes 1, suit from all those tailored garments.

 

[hitsuji]

What are you folk’s opinions on Dormeuil Sportex Vintage? It will be a blind buy as a jacket for me.

Is it more of a 3 season fabric?

 

[classicalthunde]

What are you folk’s opinions on Dormeuil Sportex Vintage? It will be a blind buy as a jacket for me.

Is it more of a 3 season fabric?

IIRC its a bit on the heavier side, so 3 season should be a possibility depending on region and climate

 

[ericgereghty]

Yes. I’ve stopped buying/hoarding cloth. It’s not worth the hassle. I tell my tailor what I’m looking for in general terms (i.e. dark grey mohair ~10 Oz.), he recommends a few, and I pick one. Much less stress that way. Results are much better than when I tried to source my own fabric. And no more lugging lengths of fabric to hotel rooms like I’m doing a drug deal.

And I sometimes I’ll be pleasantly surprised at what he picks.

Now you can stuff the duffels full of drugs instead #winning

What are you folk’s opinions on Dormeuil Sportex Vintage? It will be a blind buy as a jacket for me.

Is it more of a 3 season fabric?

I'd say so. I believe it's 13oz or thereabouts, though, honestly, I don't really feel it. Probably closer to a spring/fall jacket, and capable of a standalone in winter in a moderate climate. Would not want it sans coat if stuck outside in properly cold weather.

 

[Marshak]

What are you folk’s opinions on Dormeuil Sportex Vintage? It will be a blind buy as a jacket for me.

Is it more of a 3 season fabric?

New or old vintage Sportex (which is very difficult to find) ?