The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]

Happy Holidays! As I am not a tailor, I am hoping for some insight as to what alterations should be done to this semi-bespoke flannel suit. I had one fitting prior to finished garment. The trousers fit perfectly, but to my novice eye and based on feel, the waist is a bit too suppressed and the collar is not sitting correctly.

Thank you in advance for your assistance! It is much appreciated.



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Did you pick this up from the tailor? Did they see it on you?
Lots of issues that aren't easy to correct.

 

[whipcord]

very little to work with but yes, it can be let out.
Could also let out the side body at the bottom of the arm scye under the arms. This will make the armhole wider.
Not certain you need this without seeing the fit, letting you know other options.

Thank you. What kind of pictures would be most helpful? This is a raglan sleeve overcoat which has low arm holes. It is pulling when I am in the driving position, which is annoying since it's a "car coat."

 

[Despos]

Thank you. What kind of pictures would be most helpful? This is a raglan sleeve overcoat which has low arm holes. It is pulling when I am in the driving position, which is annoying since it's a "car coat."

May not improve. Deep armholes on a raglan are very uncomfortable and hard to move in.

Try doing this. Get a straight pin and pin the center back seam just under the collar where the collar is sewn to the body.
Pinch the seam 1/2' double. That's1/2" on each side of the seam, 1' total. Put another pin about 1" down from the first pin. Try the jacket on and see if it feels better.

 

[whipcord]

May not improve. Deep armholes on a raglan are very uncomfortable and hard to move in.

Try doing this. Get a straight pin and pin the center back seam just under the collar where the collar is sewn to the body.
Pinch the seam 1/2' double. That's1/2" on each side of the seam, 1' total. Put another pin about 1" down from the first pin. Try the jacket on and see if it feels better.

Thank you. I will find some pins and do this. I took a few pictures to show the coat. When I raise my arms the coat is lifting, and you can also see it starts puckering in the shoulder as a result. It's a wrinkled mess from shipping. The fabric is beautiful, a 100% wool with a really nice hand and weight.

 

[whipcord]

Does anybody know if this is enough seam allowance to gain any mobility in the back of the coat? The first is the sideseam measurement for both sides, the second is the center back seam.

What I am looking for is to reduce the amount of tightness in the back of the jacket when reaching, driving, etc. You can clearly see how snug it becomes with any sort of arms forward movement. I don't really understand fit and why this coat gets so tight in the rear when my arms go forward. The pit-to-pit is 6 inches over my actual chest measurement. There are no larger sizes available. I suppose I could just return it, but I love the wool. It has such a soft hand and no itch whatsoever.

 

[UncommonSequel]

Ordered my first sport coat from Spier & MacKay and would like feedback on fit for future orders. I ordered the same coat in 40L and 42R, both in their contemporary fit. See pics below:

Spoiler: 40L

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Spoiler: 42R

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I think the 42R seems to fit better across the chest and shoulders, which from my understanding is one of the more important areas to get right, it also feels slightly more comfortable.

Couple of questions:

1) They stock 42R in their slim fit as well, which has the same published chest, shoulder, and sleeve length measurements as the 42R contemporary, with a 0.4” reduction in waist, and 0.2” reduction in jacket length. Would it be worth ordering this instead next time? Or is the reduction in length not worth the trade off?

2) Thoughts on length? Is the standard length long enough on the 42R? Or do you think it is worth ordering a long next time (42L is 1" longer than 42R in both jacket and sleeves, and 0.4" longer than the 40L)?

3) Any other thoughts/opinions on whether or not this block pattern fits me well enough to order additional jackets/suits from S&M in the future? Or should I try other rtw/mtm options instead? If I stick with S&M what size would you suggest ordering, and what would you suggest getting altered with a tailor?

Thanks!

Giving this a post-Christmas bump. I would really appreciate any feedback/insights, I am new to classic menswear and still trying to figure out all of the intricacies of fit!

 

[BonzoMoon2002]

Hello All!
I was directed to this thread for some assistance. Please let me know if this is incorrect.
I am hoping for some advice. I recently used Steed's MTM service (their semi-bespoke service was not yet available). I am mainly happy with the suit I ordered, save for the sleeves. I can't quite put my finger on it. I've been in touch with them since receiving delivery in mid-December, but have yet to receive a response. I assume the holidays are causing a delay.

Now, I realize I should have held out for bespoke service, but I figured being I usually do very well off the rack with a 40R, that it would be overkill. This is likely my inexperience, and I have learned.

Anyway, I ordered a lovely breathable mid-grey lightweight 2-piece suit. It is wonderful. We did 1 virtual fitting, and adjustments were made, and it was sent back. It seems the sleeves are either too big/wide, or pitched wrong, or something. Will you all tell me if I'm crazy?

Thank you!

 

[JohnMRobie]

Hello All!
I was directed to this thread for some assistance. Please let me know if this is incorrect.
I am hoping for some advice. I recently used Steed's MTM service (their semi-bespoke service was not yet available). I am mainly happy with the suit I ordered, save for the sleeves. I can't quite put my finger on it. I've been in touch with them since receiving delivery in mid-December, but have yet to receive a response. I assume the holidays are causing a delay.

Now, I realize I should have held out for bespoke service, but I figured being I usually do very well off the rack with a 40R, that it would be overkill. This is likely my inexperience, and I have learned.

Anyway, I ordered a lovely breathable mid-grey lightweight 2-piece suit. It is wonderful. We did 1 virtual fitting, and adjustments were made, and it was sent back. It seems the sleeves are either too big/wide, or pitched wrong, or something. Will you all tell me if I'm crazy?

Thank you!



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Would retake those photos to get feedback. Try and get full body shots for people to be able to actually see things.

 

[J.R.]

Hey group. Based on other comments on another thread, I'm sending this back in for some touch ups. What is the proper way to fix this? I just want to makes sure that what I have the tailor do is right by getting your second opinion.

For the pants, the main issue is the bunching under my rump. Now, I have a limited rump, which is most of the problem. Does it need to be taken in there? Or, let it out more to hang straighter? This is an issue is many of my pants.
On the jacket, I know I need to let out the sides a bit to relax the pulling on the lower back area. Do you think I need them to widen the upper back to lesson the stress between the shoulder blades? The jacket is actually pretty comfortable and does not stretch like this when unbuttoned.

 

[gimpwiz]

JR, in photo #2, are you standing naturally or leaning forward? One of my own troubles is the "natural look" as opposed to the "posed look," where the latter is often not accurate to how I actually stand or walk. It looks to me like you're leaning forward a bunch. (Or is it on purpose?)

 

[J.R.]

I think I'm standing naturally. It's hard not a pose a bit. I certainly was not intentionally leaning any way, except to lift my arms out of the way. My phone is leaning on a shelf with my contribute to the look of a lean.

 

[Kevin24]

This might be inappropriate for this thread.

However, it’s sort of a cloth related question.

I bought a pair of waxed cotton caps in large which is my usual size. However, unlike hats made of other materials I find them too tight.

Going off of this, will they stretch a lot or should I size up?

If anyone has any experience with this type of cloth?

Herring waxed Cotton Flat Cap by Peregrine from Herring Shoes

Crafted in medium weight Millerain waxed cotton for dependable water resistance, this flat cap is finished with a Peregrine grey cotton lining. Large - 59cm XLarge - 60cm

www.herringshoes.co.uk

 

[Despos]

This might be inappropriate for this thread.

However, it’s sort of a cloth related question.

I bought a pair of waxed cotton caps in large which is my usual size. However, unlike hats made of other materials I find them too tight.

Going off of this, will they stretch a lot or should I size up?

If anyone has any experience with this type of cloth?

Herring waxed Cotton Flat Cap by Peregrine from Herring Shoes

Crafted in medium weight Millerain waxed cotton for dependable water resistance, this flat cap is finished with a Peregrine grey cotton lining. Large - 59cm XLarge - 60cm

www.herringshoes.co.uk

@Kevin24
It may stretch, depends on construction. But, you don't know how much it would stretch or if it will stretch enough to be comfortable.

Would size up

 

[Cidermonk]

Appreciate any thoughts on my shirt, trouser or jacket fits. Shirt and jacket are Proper Cloth, trousers are Luxire. Getting ready for a wedding in several months so trying to nail down fit fairly quickly.

 

[ter1413]

Appreciate any thoughts on my shirt, trouser or jacket fits. Shirt and jacket are Proper Cloth, trousers are Luxire. Getting ready for a wedding in several months so trying to nail down fit fairly quickly.

Trouser length is a bit too short for me. But some like it like that.