The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Mr Knightley]

I have just returned from a little cruise around Spain and N. Africa. We had not used the Italian cruise line MSC before and were not at all sure what to expect.

We noted from their website that they do not have formal nights as such, rather 'Gala Evenings'. While they appeared to encourage evening wear on these occasions, their onboard information also suggested possible alternatives that included 'your very best polo shirt and nice jeans'!

So, we were pleasantly surprised on the first of these evenings to discover that many men and the majority of ladies had made an effort. As one would expect, most of the gentlemen, while trying hard, would not have met 'SF-approved' standards - I spotted lots of notched lapels, double vents, ordinary business shoes, brightly coloured and sparkly waistcoats, etc.

I, myself, fell short too. I still don't possess any patent shoes, so had to go with my Church's Lingfields.

Here are a few pictures of my outfit from two of the four Gala Evenings - same dinner jacket but different accessories:

 

[Mr Knightley]

I know many of you good gentlemen are very interested in accessories so I thought I might share these two images. The hanky in the second photo was found in a lovely little glove shop in Valencia. It opened in 1868 and was still holding on!

 

[bbqthis]

I got married 2 weeks ago today. I wore a morning coat for the ceremony and switched to a dinner jacket for the reception. Really quite pleased how the outfits turned out (the wedding itself turned out even better). The dinner jacket is exactly how I wanted; at first glance bog standard, but with a hearty peaked lapel that makes a subtle impact.

Details:

• The morning coat and trousers were purchased online as ex-rental stock.
• Vest is from Hawes & Curtis.
• Dress shirt from Divij (both commissioned for the wedding, unfortunately was my 1st order from Divij that needs alterations after make. These sleeves are over 1.25" too long!")
• Pocket square is Simonnot-Goddard Archival
• Tie is an old Polo RL
• Shoes are Cleverley bespoke (I know, I know)
  
  
• Dinner jacket is MTM by Beckett & Robb.
• Bow tie/cummerbund from High Cotton Ties
• Formal shirt from Divij (these sleeves were too short)
• Suspenders are Albert Thurston
• Jewelry is Larter & Sons

 

[blewnote1]

I have just returned from a little cruise around Spain and N. Africa. We had not used the Italian cruise line MSC before and were not at all sure what to expect.

We noted from their website that they do not have formal nights as such, rather 'Gala Evenings'. While they appeared to encourage evening wear on these occasions, their onboard information also suggested possible alternatives that included 'your very best polo shirt and nice jeans'!

So, we were pleasantly surprised on the first of these evenings to discover that many men and the majority of ladies had made an effort. As one would expect, most of the gentlemen, while trying hard, would not have met 'SF-approved' standards - I spotted lots of notched lapels, double vents, ordinary business shoes, brightly coloured and sparkly waistcoats, etc.

I, myself, fell short too. I still don't possess any patent shoes, so had to go with my Church's Lingfields.

Here are a few pictures of my outfit from two of the four Gala Evenings - same dinner jacket but different accessories:
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You should be happy to learn that patent leather, while always correct for black tie, is not necessarily required. Opera pumps, captoe, or wholecut oxfords in calf are also correct going back to the golden age menswear. Just make sure they're well shined (yours look like they fit the bill) and you're set.

 

[Mr Knightley]

You should be happy to learn that patent leather, while always correct for black tie, is not necessarily required. Opera pumps, captoe, or wholecut oxfords in calf are also correct going back to the golden age menswear. Just make sure they're well shined (yours look like they fit the bill) and you're set.

Thank you @blewnote1 Yes, I think we can allow ourselves a little leeway with black tie footwear 😊

 

[Mark from Plano]

SPCA Fur Ball last Friday night.

 

[Mark from Plano]

I forgot one.

 

[jeremygo]

Hey black tie experts, I was invited to my first black tie wedding next year and am starting to look around at options for my first tuxedo. Does anyone have any recommendations for tuxes in the $1.5K to $2Kish range? Right now I'm leaning towards No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara, but still doing my research.

Secondly, my understanding is peak vs. shawl, single vs. double breasted is just personal preference - but is there anything I should be looking out for there?

 

[Spills]

Might consider Ring Jacket through The Armoury. Very classic. In the range of what you are looking to spend.

 

[jonathanS]

Hey black tie experts, I was invited to my first black tie wedding next year and am starting to look around at options for my first tuxedo. Does anyone have any recommendations for tuxes in the $1.5K to $2Kish range? Right now I'm leaning towards No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara, but still doing my research.

Secondly, my understanding is peak vs. shawl, single vs. double breasted is just personal preference - but is there anything I should be looking out for there?

Yes to your question. I suppose peak is slightly more formal.

Ring jacket / the armoury is another option. Stefano bemer mtm, b&tailor mtm. All in New York.

 

[jeremygo]

Might consider Ring Jacket through The Armoury. Very classic. In the range of what you are looking to spend.

Thanks! I get a lot of my normal tailoring from the armoury's tribeca shop and checked out their tuxes last week. Unfortunately their tuxedos all start in the $2.5K-$2.8K range and I was hoping to aim a bit under that.

 

[ericgereghty]

Hey black tie experts, I was invited to my first black tie wedding next year and am starting to look around at options for my first tuxedo. Does anyone have any recommendations for tuxes in the $1.5K to $2Kish range? Right now I'm leaning towards No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara, but still doing my research.

Secondly, my understanding is peak vs. shawl, single vs. double breasted is just personal preference - but is there anything I should be looking out for there?

How much can/will you wiggle? You can go cheaper, but you're obviously losing quality. Spier, Cavour, and AI all have appealing options south of your minimum. Ring, as mentioned above, hits above.

I think SC* via NMWA is probably your best bet. I don't believe MTM (or MTO if you're one of god's chosen few who can easily do RTW sizing lol) incurs a notable upcharge, and that should have you kicking tires at just about the ish range of $2kish...if not a tad lower?

In today's climate, it's a near certainty nobody would care or notice peak or shawl lapels, or even notch if you're feeling frisky (inserts gasp emoji) so really personal preference. I would say go peak if it's your first tux.

 

[gimpwiz]

Peak vs shawl and SB vs DB is personal preference. Peaks are more formal, but there aren't so many BT events at all, of which not many require the full level of formality. DB's benefit is that you don't need to worry about a waist covering of any sort, but it's also warmer than SB. Really all just preference. Can't imagine being thrown out of a party for making the 'wrong' choice.

SB Peak is probably the simplest "don't put any thought into it" option. Make sure the lapels aren't wimpy.

 

[jonathanS]

Make sure the lapels aren't wimpy.

+1 on this. Make sure you have a balanced to strong lapel. That’s my preference at least. Whether it’s peak or shawl. I think the whole small skinny lapels thing looks awful.

 

[classicalthunde]

Secondly, my understanding is peak vs. shawl, single vs. double breasted is just personal preference - but is there anything I should be looking out for there?

It might just be me, but I find that shawl lapel shapes vary widely from maker to maker whereas peaks tend to be pretty uniform. Just something to consider as I love some lapel shapes and am not a fan of others...