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The Overcoat Thread

mebiuspower

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Love to know what's everyone's height here...

I'm 6'2", even a medium length coat looks short on me.
 

Baked Potato

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I agree, it's a better combination with the fabric.

Do grab pictures for us when you get it!

Inverted back pleat is up to you. I'd pass on it, but it's optional. It does give more range of motion if reaching forward.

AMF stitching is always better to go wider on coats IMO. Looks more casual and sporty. I've attached a photo below which shows the "piped" effect it has on the pockets, cuffs, and sleeves.

This is called "swelled edges".

I'd even go 8mm if possible for the AMF stitching.

I had that as my first coat some years ago.

I loved it initially, but it's no longer to my tastes. Trim fitting, hit just above my knee, and awkward proportions IMO.

Lapped seam is more of a "bonus". It just looks casual and sporty which is a good combination for a polo coat. The one below is even in a raglan sleeve, which I've never seen before in this configuration.

View attachment 1869739

Buttoned vent/inverted box pleat are optional.

I'd pass on the flapped chest pocket, looks awkward.

I'd focus more on silhouette, and button proportions if that is something you can alter.
Thanks for your informative post. Regarding the “swelled” edges, is it the same photo as the raglan sleeved coat?

Also, would an unconstructed shoulder be okay? I relay don’t like having any padding in overcoats. I always have some slight padding in jackets, but that’s mostly because of my sloped shoulders.

What should I focus on in terms of the silhouette and button proportions?

Thanks once again!
 

FlyingHorker

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Love to know what's everyone's height here...

I'm 6'2", even a medium length coat looks short on me.
5'9-5'10.

I go vintage for most of my coats, and they're all below my knee.

Most of my coats are 42-45". You might need a 47-50" length.

IIRC, @Psyko is a similiar height and may know what a good length is.
Thanks for your informative post. Regarding the “swelled” edges, is it the same photo as the raglan sleeved coat?

Also, would an unconstructed shoulder be okay? I relay don’t like having any padding in overcoats. I always have some slight padding in jackets, but that’s mostly because of my sloped shoulders.

What should I focus on in terms of the silhouette and button proportions?

Thanks once again!
Yeah that's the photo. I thought it showcased the swelled edges really nicely.

Hmmm, I'm not sure on unconstructed shoulder. I think because you're planning on using a heavier fabric (700g wool, correct me if I'm wrong), that might work.

I would focus on Psyko's Ralph Lauren photo that I posted on the previous page, and the Duke of Windsor's coat. The coats have extended shoulders, a very full chest, a long length, and the button stance is stretched out vertically.

It gives off a relaxed look. Compare Simon's coat that fits closer, and has a tighter button stance, vs. the DoW's oversized coat with a stretched button stance.

polo-coat-camel-style-500x598.jpg
vs.
tumblr_lz6hup8ifl1rpqfmno1_640-jpeg.1869330

Can also read through this thread for more thoughts.

 

pwc008

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One has to be careful though to buy a coat that one can wear over a sport-jacket or suit. I have 3 coats that I can only wear over a sweater. Even so, on one of them, I still had to have my tailor deepen the armhole and let out the blades. It fits fine now, but is not wearable over a sport-jacker or suit.
 

DorianGreen

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One has to be careful though to buy a coat that one can wear over a sport-jacket or suit. I have 3 coats that I can only wear over a sweater. Even so, on one of them, I still had to have my tailor deepen the armhole and let out the blades. It fits fine now, but is not wearable over a sport-jacker or suit.

You might consider both options. An overcoat can definitely be worn on its own, that is over a jumper (e.g. a turtleneck) or a shirt with cardigan. Obviously you have to choose different fits according to the use of the garment.
 
Last edited:

smittycl

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Liking this Lardini brown plaid top coat. Hoping wifey got it for me for Christmas.

Capture.JPG
 

smittycl

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I like colour and pattern, less the style.
The cut was the only holding me back a bit. Might order it if I don’t get as a gift. Can always return it. I’ve found Lardini to be reliable, though, and their stuff generally works well for me.
 

ter1413

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smittycl

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I don't like pockets cut like that on overcoats. I prefer the flat/straight across style.
I’m the exact opposite. Greatly prefer slanted pockets to warm hands or hold gloves, etc.
 

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