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The best all-round affordable well-made PoW/glen-check brown/oatmeal tweed sports jacket

multiccy-csa

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This 'essential' menswear staple has been eluding me for some years, and i've decided finally needs to be added...whether we are approaching Spring/Summer or not.
I'm 5'10 and 65kg, and quite narrow-shouldered, so this needs to have a relatively slim fit.
I'd like it to be relatively soft, yet have some heft to warm the cockles when it gets chilly, at least 18oz i'd say. It doesn't have to be Harris, although that would be nice. Moon, Holland & Sherry and Fox would all, of course, be great. I'm also not too fussed about the construction (lined/unlined, half/full canvas); it just has to look classic, timeless, great.
So where can i go to procure one?
Scouring eBay, the examples are often very dated in their fit (either a very short in the hem or arms, unusually low gorge, wide lapels, or just generally wonky-looking)
So i'm looking for a ready-to-wear example that either works off the peg or can easily be tailored. I'd rather not have to pay more than £500 but i can go to £1k if it looks fantastic. My usual go-to brands at this sort of price point don't seem to offer what i'm looking for: Drake's, Trunk, Lardini, Anthology, Anglo Italian...nothing looks quite right to me. Either off shades, or odd linen-mixes. i don't care for Polo RL's quality, and Purple Label are too pricey.
The closest i got is Cad & The Dandy, per the below, that looks very nice, and pretty much hits my brief.
The trouble is, who on earth are Cad & The Dandy? They have a Savile Row address, and seem to know what they're doing (and how to charge), but am i paying for quality? i've literally never heard of them.
Are there any obvious 'go-tos' that i'm overlooking?

1711838873232.png


Thank you so much, as always.
 

breakaway01

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CATD has been around a while; a quick search will pull up many threads here on SF. As with any bespoke outfit, there are some negative reviews but overall they seem to be positive. I have no personal experience with them. I’m surprised that they will make you a custom jacket at under 1K GBP though?
 

te0o

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CATD has been around a while; a quick search will pull up many threads here on SF. As with any bespoke outfit, there are some negative reviews but overall they seem to be positive. I have no personal experience with them. I’m surprised that they will make you a custom jacket at under 1K GBP though?

He'd be going for the RTW line at CATD as I understand it.

This 'essential' menswear staple has been eluding me for some years, and i've decided finally needs to be added...whether we are approaching Spring/Summer or not.
I'm 5'10 and 65kg, and quite narrow-shouldered, so this needs to have a relatively slim fit.
I'd like it to be relatively soft, yet have some heft to warm the cockles when it gets chilly, at least 18oz i'd say. It doesn't have to be Harris, although that would be nice. Moon, Holland & Sherry and Fox would all, of course, be great. I'm also not too fussed about the construction (lined/unlined, half/full canvas); it just has to look classic, timeless, great.
So where can i go to procure one?
Scouring eBay, the examples are often very dated in their fit (either a very short in the hem or arms, unusually low gorge, wide lapels, or just generally wonky-looking)
So i'm looking for a ready-to-wear example that either works off the peg or can easily be tailored. I'd rather not have to pay more than £500 but i can go to £1k if it looks fantastic. My usual go-to brands at this sort of price point don't seem to offer what i'm looking for: Drake's, Trunk, Lardini, Anthology, Anglo Italian...nothing looks quite right to me. Either off shades, or odd linen-mixes. i don't care for Polo RL's quality, and Purple Label are too pricey.
The closest i got is Cad & The Dandy, per the below, that looks very nice, and pretty much hits my brief.
The trouble is, who on earth are Cad & The Dandy? They have a Savile Row address, and seem to know what they're doing (and how to charge), but am i paying for quality? i've literally never heard of them.
Are there any obvious 'go-tos' that i'm overlooking?

View attachment 2158533

Thank you so much, as always.

Cad's fine to be honest. At that price point, just go for something that you like in terms of looks and don't worry too much about construction, quality, etc.

The brands you've listed would be the ones I would have suggested here. The likely reason why you're not seeing too many options is that we are now firmly in the spring/summer season as you've pointed out and all of these brands would have pulled their winter collections already. I'd suggest leaving this purchase until the autumn when you'll have more choice.

Oh yeah, and look at Cavour - they have tasteful tweed options every A/W season which fit within your price point. And quality-wise they'd be better compared to the brands you listed, save for Anglo Italian and the Anthology maybe.
 

multiccy-csa

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Oh yeah, and look at Cavour - they have tasteful tweed options every A/W season which fit within your price point. And quality-wise they'd be better compared to the brands you listed, save for Anglo Italian and the Anthology maybe.
This is a good shout, thank you. I have a couple of pairs of Cavour trousers and am very happy with them. i'll take a look at their site.
You make an interesting comment re. quality, you rank them (and Anglo Italian) higher than Drake's? I know Drake's sometime outsource stuff other than their shirts and ties (e.g. from Lockie), and i've no problem at all with that, but i gathered mainly from fine makers...plus they generally price higher than both Cavour and AI, as far as i can tell. You don't get what you pay for?
 

te0o

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You make an interesting comment re. quality, you rank them (and Anglo Italian) higher than Drake's? I know Drake's sometime outsource stuff other than their shirts and ties (e.g. from Lockie), and i've no problem at all with that, but i gathered mainly from fine makers...plus they generally price higher than both Cavour and AI, as far as i can tell. You don't get what you pay for?
Correct, given the construction of Drake's jackets, I'd rank them lower than AI and Cavour in terms of quality. Both Cavour and AI offer fully canvassed jackets unlike Drake's, and the finishing work on AI jackets is best-in-class for that price bracket in my mind.

You pay for the brand name with Drake's, the huge Savile Row shop, the marketing (and their trips around the world) - and of course the tasteful design choices if we're being fair. But I don't think their block pattern is as refined as AI and Cavour, so fit-wise Drake's has always been sub-optimal for me in addition to the somewhat inferior construction of the jacket.

However, if you see something you like which fits, just buy it and don't think too much about the brand, construction, etc. You'd naturally wear a garment you like more often which is gonna reduce the proverbial 'cost per wear'.
 

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