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Marccarlsson

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I'm copying a previous post I made to try to clear some confusion regarding Custom Made, CM from Scratch and how these differ from Online and in Store, since this was appreciated earlier.

Regarding trousers
Soho is their slimmest fit, Brentwood and Bolzano have a higher rise, and are more roomie in the hip and thigh area, but pretty slim in the calf. The Brescia is their standard fit, which is slimmer in the hip/thigh than Brentwood, but pretty much the same or even bigger in the calf.

A quick tip for anyone who are looking for trousers. You can make a custom made trouser in store, and change some measurements when making them, like waist, thigh, knee and foot. This is then made during production, so you basically get a MTM-trouser based on any existing trousers (like the Brentwood). If you go "Full MTM", it is based on the Brescia fit. The cost is the same, which is something like 20-30€ more than the RTW pants. Since all alterations are included in Custom Made, it usually ends up cheaper anyway.

So CM or MTM (CM from Scratch) is actually the same price. The only difference is if you go full MTM, you can change more measurements, BUT, it is always based on the Brescia fit.

Regarding Jackets
Same here. If you go Custom Made, you can choose from the existing fits Like Havana, Havana Wide Lapel, Washington etc. You can change some measurements like jacket waist, sleeve length, jacket length and a few more things.

If you go MTM (CM from Scrach) you can change a whole lot more like different lengths in the front/back, shoulder slope, button position, but this will be based on the Lazio (La Spalla) fit.

Both these are the same price.

Online vs Store
If you purchase Online, you obviously can't change any measurements, and get the standard fit. But if you go into a store, they will alter it at no additional cost. Obviously some things can't be altered after, like lenghenting the jacket.

If you do it in store, they get you to try on the model you like, and pin it to your preferences, and then input the order with the right measurements.

All of these different combinations cost the same.

This means that the cheapest MTM suit can cost as low as ~400€ in EU if you choose the few fabrics that have no additional cost. This is a probably as cheap as you can get to get a pretty great product.
 

EthansAlley

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I've heard that Suit Supply doesn't really work well unless you are quite slender. Do you find that to be the case? I'm not portly, but at 5'10" 200 I'm not what you would call thin either

SuSu does work better with slimmer builds, however, it also works with heavier builds if you size up and work with the right pants fits. There are some pants fits like the Porto and Alain that work only for slim builds, but fits like the Brescia work well for larger builds. Also, because the suit jacket sleeves tend to be on the shorter end, sizing up for larger builds may actually mean that the sleeve fit ends up being just right.
 

EthansAlley

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Has anyone ordered SuSu trousers via the online MTO or Custom Made route? Would like to dialogue with those who have to figure out elements like rise, sizing up to achieve proper drape and taper, and fit between difference models.

When I did custom made working with an in-store rep, they were able to make adjustments for me. They increased the thigh, seat, and calf circumference of the Brescia pants in the original order, so the pants fit great the first time they arrived. One thing that helped was for me to try on the pants in-store of the fit and size I was ordering, which then informed what adjustments needed to be made. Thus, I did not have to “size up“ and buy pants that were too loose in the waist. I was able to order the pants with the proper waist size because they made the leg circumference adjustments. I don’t believe though you can make these type of adjustments by strictly using the online tool.
 

wilcthree

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I'm copying a previous post I made to try to clear some confusion regarding Custom Made, CM from Scratch and how these differ from Online and in Store, since this was appreciated earlier.

Regarding trousers
Soho is their slimmest fit, Brentwood and Bolzano have a higher rise, and are more roomie in the hip and thigh area, but pretty slim in the calf. The Brescia is their standard fit, which is slimmer in the hip/thigh than Brentwood, but pretty much the same or even bigger in the calf.

A quick tip for anyone who are looking for trousers. You can make a custom made trouser in store, and change some measurements when making them, like waist, thigh, knee and foot. This is then made during production, so you basically get a MTM-trouser based on any existing trousers (like the Brentwood). If you go "Full MTM", it is based on the Brescia fit. The cost is the same, which is something like 20-30€ more than the RTW pants. Since all alterations are included in Custom Made, it usually ends up cheaper anyway.

So CM or MTM (CM from Scratch) is actually the same price. The only difference is if you go full MTM, you can change more measurements, BUT, it is always based on the Brescia fit.

Regarding Jackets
Same here. If you go Custom Made, you can choose from the existing fits Like Havana, Havana Wide Lapel, Washington etc. You can change some measurements like jacket waist, sleeve length, jacket length and a few more things.

If you go MTM (CM from Scrach) you can change a whole lot more like different lengths in the front/back, shoulder slope, button position, but this will be based on the Lazio (La Spalla) fit.

Both these are the same price.

Online vs Store
If you purchase Online, you obviously can't change any measurements, and get the standard fit. But if you go into a store, they will alter it at no additional cost. Obviously some things can't be altered after, like lenghenting the jacket.

If you do it in store, they get you to try on the model you like, and pin it to your preferences, and then input the order with the right measurements.

All of these different combinations cost the same.

This means that the cheapest MTM suit can cost as low as ~400€ in EU if you choose the few fabrics that have no additional cost. This is a probably as cheap as you can get to get a pretty great product.
This is super helpful. I have the Braddon in off-white cotton twill. I appreciate the details such as side tabs and pleats. The sever taper I could do without. Ideally, if I went the online CM from Scratch, I would choose that trouser model, but would need to modify the taper; seems that can only be done in-store though. Darn. Might just have to pull the trigger and deal with the taper later. I need WFH pents, and the 2-3 week turnaround is tempting since going to my tailor is out of the cards for right now.
 

Aieyric

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
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overcoat, and body lenght.

I was wondering the same thing, got the answer not now but will be available end of October.
 

Baked Potato

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2012
Messages
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Perhaps this is a question better asked in the tailors thread, but I'll give it a try here becuase it's regarding an SS product.

SS unfortunately lacks the option of adding darts on shirts directly during production. I prefer to have darts to get rid of the excess bilowing in the back (except my only bespoke shirts, which fits me perfectly without any darts). Doing this during production also means that they add a couple of extra centimeters of fabric so that the shirt reaches the desired measurements after the darts are added. Hence the extra billowing fabric that would the in the back is moved to the front instead.

The conclusion we reached last time I was in store was that we could add a couple of cm to the waist/chest and then add darts after it reaches the store. They haven't done this earlier though, so the question is how much extra fabric should be added. What do you guys say? How much should be added to the waist/chest, and how much can you take in through darts without making the shirt look weird?
 

Jlee80

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2016
Messages
309
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in my custom made experience, I have found that the Havana traveler jacket in 44s that I have purchased in store fits much different than the custom made 44s.. custom fit seems slimmer. I will definitely need to go in store to get a more accurate fitting next time

Given that, I have 4 Havana flap pocket traveler suits in 44s jacket and 34r pants. If anyone is interested PM me. Like new condition. Can seperate if needed
 

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