Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[wozniak]

There are numerous video reviews. Its literally a plastic stick sewn between the placket layers. They look ridiculous, and I can't imagine they do anything good for your garment's longevity.

Will post soon on how they look and how they hold up in washes. Its easy to install and remove in any case. Many "common man" shirts over the years have used collar stays of plastic or metal. To me this is not much different solution.

I have the PC 'stand up placket' on a linen shirt. It works fairly well. The downside is that it's just a fused placket with medium interlining, so the placket is always completely flat and smooth while the rest of the shirt is rumply as linen usually is. Overall, it's better than not having it

The best solution th this problem? For dress shirts or thinner fabrics in general, I find that a bit good old fashioned spray starch works wonders.

I dont buy linen shirts, but I did just buy another pair of the non iron shirts from Proper Cloth with the standup placket to see how this looks. There will be no smooth vs rumple issue in this case.

The best solution you suggest is not really the best solution for the PC shirts I buy, which are all non iron, and most are non iron + stretch. This type of shirt works best for my lifestyle.

 

[dapperclassic]

Ludlow slate brushed twill, soft Roma spread and single flap chest pocket

 

[wozniak]

Ludlow slate brushed twill, soft Roma spread and single flap chest pocket
View attachment 2146845 View attachment 2146847 View attachment 2146849 View attachment 2146851

Interesting sport coat - dont think I have seen it on PC website.

 

[dapperclassic]

Interesting sport coat - dont think I have seen it on PC website.

Only the shirt is Propercloth.

 

[wozniak]

Only the shirt is Propercloth.

Okay ya - I do wish PC would expand their suit and jacket offerings. If they could make it like their shirts - many (many) fabrics and then make a suit or jacket from them. I know their claim to fame is shirts. Still I got a suit ordered from them being made now.

 

[TheLawBeard]

Okay ya - I do wish PC would expand their suit and jacket offerings. If they could make it like their shirts - many (many) fabrics and then make a suit or jacket from them. I know their claim to fame is shirts. Still I got a suit ordered from them being made now.

I've thought the same. I'd also enjoy more stylistic options on sportcoats. The shirts have a large amount of options so one would think they have the capability to offer more.

 

[dapperclassic]

Propercloth VBC flannel suit, the jacket is made with new wide lapel cut, it has a slightly lower gorge and button stance.

 

[bpenchi]

Diving into my first made-to-measure shirt adventure here, trying to nail the classic fit similar to dapperclassic (https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...rting-may-2014.394373/page-5742#post-11741579).

As a newbie, I'm learning as I go and could really use your insights.

I've noticed that the sleeves fit well when my arms are down, but they feel too short when I bend my arms, leading me to believe the cuffs might be too large. Also, do I need to slightly take the neck in? I've attached photos for a better look.

Would love your thoughts on how to tweak this shirt to perfection, not just the cuffs but any part of it. I'm all ears for your expertise on adjustments or fitting tips.

My measurements:
Neck Around: 14
Sleeve Length: 32.5
Shoulder Width: 16.5
Chest Around: 37.5
Waist Around: 31
Shirt Length: 27
Bicep Around: 12.75
Wrist Around: 6.25

Shirt measurements:
Collar Around: 15.5
Sleeve Length: 32.5
Yoke Width: 17.2
Chest Width: 20.7
Midsection Width: 17
Back Length: 29.75
Sleeve Width: 8
Cuff Around: 8.3
Bottom Width: 19.3
Chest Posture: forward 2”
Front Length: 26

 

[wozniak]

Your shoulders need to come in. Maybe 0.25" each side, maybe more. This will help with sleve.

Cuff in

Maybe sleeve width taken down as well.

A good tailor could help you make adjustments and note changes for you. Mine revamped one of my shirts for $17. One think PC can't do is tapered arms, but again a tailor can do that.

 

[cuponoodles]

Diving into my first made-to-measure shirt adventure here, trying to nail the classic fit similar to dapperclassic (https://www.styleforum.net/threads/...rting-may-2014.394373/page-5742#post-11741579).

As a newbie, I'm learning as I go and could really use your insights.

I've noticed that the sleeves fit well when my arms are down, but they feel too short when I bend my arms, leading me to believe the cuffs might be too large. Also, do I need to slightly take the neck in? I've attached photos for a better look.

Would love your thoughts on how to tweak this shirt to perfection, not just the cuffs but any part of it. I'm all ears for your expertise on adjustments or fitting tips.

My measurements:
Neck Around: 14
Sleeve Length: 32.5
Shoulder Width: 16.5
Chest Around: 37.5
Waist Around: 31
Shirt Length: 27
Bicep Around: 12.75
Wrist Around: 6.25

Shirt measurements:
Collar Around: 15.5
Sleeve Length: 32.5
Yoke Width: 17.2
Chest Width: 20.7
Midsection Width: 17
Back Length: 29.75
Sleeve Width: 8
Cuff Around: 8.3
Bottom Width: 19.3
Chest Posture: forward 2”
Front Length: 26

I would say shoulders, chest, arm width, and cuffs need to be reduced.

The collar type also looks a bit big for your neck. The actual measurement looks fine, but the size of the collar looks big in proportion to your neck.

 

[vikke977]

Why is everyone telling this guy to slim down? If you want a bit more ”classic” of a fit then you should not slim down anything other than perhaps the shoulders and cuffs – especially the cuffs are undeniably too roomy, the shoulders are fine but perhaps in this moderns world you would want to narrow them just a touch. As for the chest and sleeve width, I think they are fine. You could even increase the chest just a couple of clicks.
One thing I think you should absolutely do is increase the waist circumference. That would allow to shirt drape better and make it more classic-looking. A too narrow waist is reminiscent of a women’s blouse and I can’t for the life of me understand the obsession with getting every last inch of fabric gone. Waist suppression is good on a jacket but not really on men’s shirts. Not saying that yours is awful – I’ve seen some that look like corsets – but I would absolutely make it more straight from chest to hem by letting out the waist.
The short sleeves are fixed by simply adding length. Decrease cuffs enough so that they don’t slide down on your hands. I like my cuffs around 1 1/4 inches bigger than my wrist.

 

[cuponoodles]

To note, you absolutely do not need to increase the waist circumference.

This is an issue of personal preference and you should do what you want, of course, but my view on the shirt is that your waist looks totally fine.

 

[yungchomsky]

I mentioned this once before but I noticed it again in dapperclassic's photos and I still find it odd — the flap pocket on the actual garment looks like it has a curve, like the western flap pockets:

As opposed to the straight flap in the illustration, or a traditional J. Press shirt:

It doesn't look bad necessarily, but it wouldn't be what I'd want or expect.

 

[wozniak]

I got my MTM suit from PC. The arm holes are too low. In fact that whole area is baggy. The rest of suit is pretty close to well fitted. I don't see any options in my sizing PC profile to change the armhole ?

 

[dapperclassic]

I mentioned this once before but I noticed it again in dapperclassic's photos and I still find it odd — the flap pocket on the actual garment looks like it has a curve, like the western flap pockets:
View attachment 2152309
View attachment 2152311
As opposed to the straight flap in the illustration, or a traditional J. Press shirt:
View attachment 2152313
It doesn't look bad necessarily, but it wouldn't be what I'd want or expect.

I agree that it does look curved, but I think some of that is an illusion when the shirt is worn, here's what they look like laid flat on a table. You can see the sew lines are straight. The plain blue does look very slightly curved compare to the ecru shirt, perhaps that is because the shirt is just laundered and not ironed, all 3 of these were made to the exact same specs.