Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[jonathanS]

I did not, originally wore it with a cummerbund, but the fiancé isn't a fan of them. I'm not worried with a stock fabric like this from VBC, any variation will be virtually invisible.

did kotaro charge you extra for a tuxedo? I know some makers charge extra because (and im not entirely sure - this is my understanding) the lapel facing is more work

 

[comrade]

This thread seems like the right place for this sad news. As good a tailor as he was, his life story could be a Hollywood movie. This obit is from the front page of NYT.
View attachment 2154553

I posted this on Friday 3/22




I met him at a Trunk Show at Nieman Marcus in Palo Alto probably 25 years ago.
A very gracious and honest man. He dissuaded me from getting an MTM suit via
Nieman's because they had no model that would satisfy my natural shoulder
taste. Instead, he recommended Brooks MTM through his own firm. I never followed
up on it and doubt that he had an an event at the small Palo Alto Brooks. Since
then BB has become a mid-level operation with endless sales.

QUOTE REPLY
Rep

 

[Sreezy36]

did kotaro charge you extra for a tuxedo? I know some makers charge extra because (and im not entirely sure - this is my understanding) the lapel facing is more work

My impression is that tailors tend to charge more for dinner jackets because of the materials used in the facing and trimmings. For example, the required silk grosgrain/satin facing and braiding is very expensive relative to other trimmings. In some cases, a length of facing can be almost as much as a length of cloth. In contrast, a dinner jacket with self-facing is merely an odd jacket in terms of material costs.

 

[ZugIslandProdigy]

I have begun my first bespoke project. It's a double-breasted two-piece city suit with braced trousers from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in Dugdale 3406:

(I don't know why Dugdale's sample is so linty, in real life there's no white fiber on the cloth). I have requested to have it made in the W&S factory in Chennai. I haven't had my first fitting yet but will take some pictures to share with you then. Once the suit is done I will be saving up for my second bespoke commission: an odd waistcoat and striped trousers, so I can wear the jacket as black lounge.

 

[P-K-L]

3 jackets about to be delivered 😻

 

[jonathanS]

3 jackets about to be delivered 😻


View attachment 2155713 View attachment 2155715 View attachment 2155717 View attachment 2155719 View attachment 2155721 View attachment 2155723 View attachment 2155725 View attachment 2155727

Pirozzi?

 

[P-K-L]

Pirozzi?

Yes sir, spot on

 

[Sreezy36]

I have begun my first bespoke project. It's a double-breasted two-piece city suit with braced trousers from Whitcomb & Shaftesbury in Dugdale 3406:

(I don't know why Dugdale's sample is so linty, in real life there's no white fiber on the cloth). I have requested to have it made in the W&S factory in Chennai. I haven't had my first fitting yet but will take some pictures to share with you then. Once the suit is done I will be saving up for my second bespoke commission: an odd waistcoat and striped trousers, so I can wear the jacket as black lounge.

The fibers from the Dugdale stock photo reflect milled(flannel style) finish.

 

[ZugIslandProdigy]

The fibers from the Dugdale stock photo reflect milled(flannel style) finish.

This is interesting as when I looked at and felt the cloth swatch in person it had none of the feeling or look of flannel. To my eye and touch it was more like a classic worsted herringbone.

 

[jonathanS]

Yes sir, spot on

Mimmo Pirozzi not nunzio in casanuovo di Napoli. Right?

 

[comrade]

3 jackets about to be delivered 😻


View attachment 2155713 View attachment 2155715 View attachment 2155717 View attachment 2155719 View attachment 2155721 View attachment 2155723 View attachment 2155725 View attachment 2155727

The "rollino" is out of control.

 

[te0o]

The "rollino" is out of control.

Says who?

 

[Sreezy36]

This is interesting as when I looked at and felt the cloth swatch in person it had none of the feeling or look of flannel. To my eye and touch it was more like a classic worsted herringbone.

I have a milled finish flannel that looks like a classic worsted herringbone with a matte finish as well. Depending on the length, some may be more milled than others. But in general, the fuzziness if from the milling. It gives it a vintage style look.

 

[clee1982]

The "rollino" is out of control.

I thought that's pretty minimal

 

[jonathanS]

The "rollino" is out of control.

I think it’s hard to make such a statement without seeing the garment in person, or minimally, seeing a photo of the garment on the client.