Kingstonian
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Jun 7, 2008
- Messages
- 1,366
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Hi Guys,Originally Posted by Slewfoot
Just got back from a few days in London which was fantastic as expected. It's been a few years since I've been to London and my last trip was one of the times that helped jumpstart my sartorial journey. Let's get one thing straight right off the bat: London is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I can't understand why it's architecture and charm aren't mentioned as often in the same breath as Paris and Florence. Words like "cosmopolitan" and "hub" seem to be frequently used to describe the city when it should also be "beautiful" and "gorgeous."
Probably because London does not have the stamp of one man on it. Paris has sweeping boulevardes and wide squares. Baron Haussman had a bigger impact than any equivalent in London. Florence is on a very much smaller scale.
Of course, men's style there is also so much more prevalent than anywhere in the US. The suits across the board fit so much better and little touches of dandy-ism can be seen everywhere in things like suit linings, chesterfield coats, colorful socks, etc. Anyway, let's get on with the specific reports.Originally Posted by Slewfoot
Maybe if you are looking in certain places. The vast majority of Londoners will not be buying hats or bespoke suits and shoes though.
Springline - now this was fun! I've been thinking for a while now about a custom last for my awkwardly shaped feet and the visit did not disappoint. A Springline last while working with Alfred Sargent is simply too good an opportunity to pass up. Chay Cooper and Paul Sargent accompanied me which was very gracious of them. We met with Michael who got right to work measuring my feet from all angles. I mentioned some things in terms of fit issues I often have with RTW and he fully agreed spotting them right away. He was wonderful to work with and very understanding when I mentioned details like the chisel toe shape, how I like to see curves around all sides of the shoe and how while I measure a B width I like a bit of room to wiggle my toes and I don't want the shoes to visually appear too narrow while looking at them from above. I can't wait to see the finished product! I can't say enough good things about the team at Springline.Originally Posted by Slewfoot
Alfred Sargent Factory - if one visit was "the main event" it might have been this. Chay and Paul took more than half their day showing me around the factory, discussing the new line and MTO program and chatting about shoes in general. Chay really has his eyes on the future and I think we can expect some great things from AS. What's been discussed with the Handgrades is all true and they look gorgeous in person. The new lasts that they will be on have that nice balance of classic and contemporary. This and the fact one can do MTO's from their RTW line and even use their own last if they'd like is a winning combo in my book!
Onto more details about the factory which is just outside Northampton in Rushden and has been around for more than 100 years. After receiving the full factory tour, I completely understand why well made English shoes aren't the cheapest things in the world! The time, dedication and number of workers involved in a single pair is astounding. I counted at least 20 people that touch each pair of shoes. I was amazed at the speed which everyone worked while keeping everything aligned and elegant. That's what years of expertise will get you! As you can see below, there are lots of photos from the factory and I've written captions below each one. You'll see a lot of machines here. Keep in mind they only have one or maybe two of these in the factory. Each pair of shoes has to be go through the entire process so heaven forbid just one machine breaks down! A very interesting and insightful day all around. Special thanks to Chay and Paul for such a wonderful time!
I do actually enjoy Northampton, which I see as a quiet unassuming town. I have never been to Sargent or Springline though. Rushden is a little bit further out anyway. Maybe if they open a factory shop I might drive up one day.
