Italian suit manufacturers

[othertravel]

There are loads and loads of small manufacturers in Italy that mostly make private label for Italian stores or they are subproducers for larger factories such as Belvest, Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Lardini, and Zegna. Often when people say that for instance a Ralph Lauren suit was made by Corneliani, it was most likely made by the subcontractor instead. The quality is likely the same as if Corneliani made it, if not better, but never really moved through their industrial system.

I worked with several when I used to be in the industry.They're mostly smaller operations with 5-25 people employed.You can get really good semi-handmade fully canvassed CMT suit for just north of €300. The best one we worked with made lots of Tom Ford's italian made stuff which everyone says is Zegna Couture.

If that's of interest, drop me a PM and I'll give you a couple of names.

Wow. Interesting.

 

[Nicu Andrei]

There are loads and loads of small manufacturers in Italy that mostly make private label for Italian stores or they are subproducers for larger factories such as Belvest, Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Lardini, and Zegna. Often when people say that for instance a Ralph Lauren suit was made by Corneliani, it was most likely made by the subcontractor instead. The quality is likely the same as if Corneliani made it, if not better, but never really moved through their industrial system.

I worked with several when I used to be in the industry.They're mostly smaller operations with 5-25 people employed.You can get really good semi-handmade fully canvassed CMT suit for just north of €300. The best one we worked with made lots of Tom Ford's italian made stuff which everyone says is Zegna Couture.

If that's of interest, drop me a PM and I'll give you a couple of names.

Wow, I'd really like to find out more. We are actually looking for a new option for our own brand.

 

[BosArt]

There are loads and loads of small manufacturers in Italy that mostly make private label for Italian stores or they are subproducers for larger factories such as Belvest, Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Lardini, and Zegna. Often when people say that for instance a Ralph Lauren suit was made by Corneliani, it was most likely made by the subcontractor instead. The quality is likely the same as if Corneliani made it, if not better, but never really moved through their industrial system.

I worked with several when I used to be in the industry.They're mostly smaller operations with 5-25 people employed.You can get really good semi-handmade fully canvassed CMT suit for just north of €300. The best one we worked with made lots of Tom Ford's italian made stuff which everyone says is Zegna Couture.

If that's of interest, drop me a PM and I'll give you a couple of names.

I would really appreciate that info as well Sir.

 

[BosArt]

There are loads and loads of small manufacturers in Italy that mostly make private label for Italian stores or they are subproducers for larger factories such as Belvest, Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Lardini, and Zegna. Often when people say that for instance a Ralph Lauren suit was made by Corneliani, it was most likely made by the subcontractor instead. The quality is likely the same as if Corneliani made it, if not better, but never really moved through their industrial system.

I worked with several when I used to be in the industry.They're mostly smaller operations with 5-25 people employed.You can get really good semi-handmade fully canvassed CMT suit for just north of €300. The best one we worked with made lots of Tom Ford's italian made stuff which everyone says is Zegna Couture.

If that's of interest, drop me a PM and I'll give you a couple of names.

Would you please forward me that info Sir!

 

[dreamspace]

Manufacturers that produce at every price / quality tier, from cheap fused stuff to the most expensive stuff around

- Belvest
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Isaia
- Pal Zileri

The usual suspects that produce exclusively for high-$$$$ private labels (Stefano Ricci, Tincati, Bijan, Domenico Vacca, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Stuart's Choice, Luciano Barbera Sartoriale etc.)

- Brioni *
- Castangia
- Cesare Attolini
- D'Avenza
- Kiton *
- Sartoria Partenopea (now defunct?)
- St. Andrews / Sartoia Santandrea

* (haven't seen any products in decades)

Mid-tier producers (fused to full-canvas, some to a lot of handwork)

- Boglioli
- Canali
- Cantarelli
- Caruso
- Corneliani
- Lardini
- Mabro
- Scuderi

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Manufacturers that produce at every price / quality tier, from cheap fused stuff to the most expensive stuff around

- Belvest
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Isaia
- Pal Zileri

I’m sorry, I’m confused. Are you saying that the above produce down to cheap, fused garments?

 

[dreamspace]

I’m sorry, I’m confused. Are you saying that the above produce down to cheap, fused garments?

They cover the whole spectrum, so yes, sometimes. You can't just look at a manufacturing label and take it for granted that the item is high-quality because its from for example Ermenegildo Zegna.

Zegna will make fused garments for some designer labels (on par with their own Z Zegna stuff), but will also make very high-quality garments from brands like Tom Ford, which is on par with their own Couture / Premium line.

Same with Pal Zileri. Some stuff will be fused Pal Zileri Lab quality, other times they make high-quality garments for brands like Zilli, etc.

 

[Stilig]

Manufacturers that produce at every price / quality tier, from cheap fused stuff to the most expensive stuff around

- Belvest
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Isaia
- Pal Zileri

The usual suspects that produce exclusively for high-$$$$ private labels (Stefano Ricci, Tincati, Bijan, Domenico Vacca, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Stuart's Choice, Luciano Barbera Sartoriale etc.)

- Brioni *
- Castangia
- Cesare Attolini
- D'Avenza
- Kiton *
- Sartoria Partenopea (now defunct?)
- St. Andrews / Sartoia Santandrea

* (haven't seen any products in decades)

Mid-tier producers (fused to full-canvas, some to a lot of handwork)

- Boglioli
- Canali
- Cantarelli
- Caruso
- Corneliani
- Lardini
- Mabro
- Scuderi

What this doesn't really capture is that lots and lots of these companies sub-contract a large portion of their work to independent factories and workshops. I've personally visited factories that produce for the brands above. In just one small town I visited three:

1. The first one produced washed jackets for Boglioli, and the same place made lots of tailoring for Paul Smith. In addition, I know that they made stuff for a very well-known tailoring firm on your list above, headquartered and with a factory or their own just down the block in the same industrial era.

2. Another factory factory I know for a fact makes some of Corneliani's tailoring, and at least makes trousers for Caruso (even though the fine people at Caruso insisted that they make everything in-house when I visited their factory in Soragna just the day after). This place also made most of Ralph Lauren's made in Italy tailoring (things of lesser quality than the Saint Andrew's made Purple Label). We put in orders on RTW tailoring based on what they produced for Luciano Barbera: fully canvassed and extremely light stuff with some decent handwork in the shoulder, collar, and lining. Furthermore, they made stuff for Jil Sander and they even claimed to make stuff for Isaia, although I never saw any actual evidence for this.

3. In the same town I've seen Tom Ford samples and RTW tailoring being produced by a factory that definitely wasn't owned by Zegna in any way, shape or form. I saw some other brands being produced there as well. They said they make everything to the same standard for all the brands the produce for, but apparently the "Styleforum Hierarchical Suit Quality" list doesn't agree....

And there were a few more in town that basically had the same general ways of operating.

Basically - Italian tailoring is a hodgepodge and you shouldn't always trust the "Oh it's made by Corneliani" comments you hear about other brands. It's not entirely unlikely they took the order from the big designer and just forwarded it to one of their subcontractors.

 

[dreamspace]

What this doesn't really capture is that lots and lots of these companies sub-contract a large portion of their work to independent factories and workshops. I've personally visited factories that produce for the brands above. In just one small town I visited three:

1. The first one produced washed jackets for Boglioli, and the same place made lots of tailoring for Paul Smith. In addition, I know that they made stuff for a very well-known tailoring firm on your list above, headquartered and with a factory or their own just down the block in the same industrial era.

2. Another factory factory I know for a fact makes some of Corneliani's tailoring, and at least makes trousers for Caruso (even though the fine people at Caruso insisted that they make everything in-house when I visited their factory in Soragna just the day after). This place also made most of Ralph Lauren's made in Italy tailoring (things of lesser quality than the Saint Andrew's made Purple Label). We put in orders on RTW tailoring based on what they produced for Luciano Barbera: fully canvassed and extremely light stuff with some decent handwork in the shoulder, collar, and lining. Furthermore, they made stuff for Jil Sander and they even claimed to make stuff for Isaia, although I never saw any actual evidence for this.

3. In the same town I've seen Tom Ford samples and RTW tailoring being produced by a factory that definitely wasn't owned by Zegna in any way, shape or form. I saw some other brands being produced there as well. They said they make everything to the same standard for all the brands the produce for, but apparently the "Styleforum Hierarchical Suit Quality" list doesn't agree....

And there were a few more in town that basically had the same general ways of operating.

Basically - Italian tailoring is a hodgepodge and you shouldn't always trust the "Oh it's made by Corneliani" comments you hear about other brands. It's not entirely unlikely they took the order from the big designer and just forwarded it to one of their subcontractors.

Yes, that wouldn't surprise me. I think consistency is what one should be looking for - at least when you're getting consistently good items, with the same level of construction, I figure that's a sign of at least the brand using decent sub-contractors or in-house work.

I've owned garments from expensive brands which have delivered very inconsistent stuff - to the point that I no longer purchase before seeing and inspecting in person, and this could very well be a reason for that experience. (Sartoria Partenopea was unfortunately one of these. Under their own label, I've owned stuff which has spanned extremely good to very poor).

I agree that the "Styleforum Hierarchical Suit Quality" has its flaws exactly because of this.

 

[Stilig]

Yes, that wouldn't surprise me. I think consistency is what one should be looking for - at least when you're getting consistently good items, with the same level of construction, I figure that's a sign of at least the brand using decent sub-contractors or in-house work.

I've owned garments from expensive brands which have delivered very inconsistent stuff - to the point that I no longer purchase before seeing and inspecting in person, and this could very well be a reason for that experience. (Sartoria Partenopea was unfortunately one of these. Under their own label, I've owned stuff which has spanned extremely good to very poor).

I agree that the "Styleforum Hierarchical Suit Quality" has its flaws exactly because of this.

Partenopea is a very special story. When the Blasi family was still involved they had their own workshop and produced a very high quality garment. You rarely hear people talk well of other companies' quality in Naples, but I never heard anyone speak a bad word about Sartoria Partenopea under Blasi control.

The family sold part of the company to a private equity firm who insisted on raising profits and lowered quality in steps. When the Blasi family would no longer agree to the new way of doing business, they were pushed out from the company (Mauro subsequently fought them in court and won back the rights last year actually, so we might see a re-launch of Partenopea going forward). When the family left, Mauro took the most senior tailors from the Partenopea factory and set up a new shop producing under the Mauro Blasi label. So if you want the "classic" Partenopea today, buy something with the Mauro Blasi label.

Partenopea continued to operate, but using sub-contractors of varying quality throughout the years. Some were excellent, others not so excellent. That's why the large assortment of Partenopea on Ebay is a bit hit and miss.

 

[acconrad]

So when RLPL uses Caruso to make their suits, does that mean the suit conforms to the tailoring of the tailor (Neopolitan like Caruso) or of the brand (Ralph Lauren I would think is far more American sack-suit traditional)?

I've got a RLPL tux and it's relatively soft shoulders whereas I have a fresco wool glen plaid that has heavily-padded shoulders (wish I knew that before I bought it). Does that mean the tux was made by Caruso and the glen plaid was made by Saint Andrews? Seems like from what I'm reading on this site that the Saint Andrews version was known for their big shoulders.

 

[dreamspace]

RL is a blend of American and English style. Similar to Paul Stuart, imo.

I've owned a ton of RLPL(from Chester Barrie, St. Andrews, Caruso - even Cantarelli), and I've never found anything similar to soft Neapolitan cuts from them.

 

[asifsomji]

There are loads and loads of small manufacturers in Italy that mostly make private label for Italian stores or they are subproducers for larger factories such as Belvest, Canali, Corneliani, Caruso, Lardini, and Zegna. Often when people say that for instance a Ralph Lauren suit was made by Corneliani, it was most likely made by the subcontractor instead. The quality is likely the same as if Corneliani made it, if not better, but never really moved through their industrial system.

I worked with several when I used to be in the industry.They're mostly smaller operations with 5-25 people employed.You can get really good semi-handmade fully canvassed CMT suit for just north of €300. The best one we worked with made lots of Tom Ford's italian made stuff which everyone says is Zegna Couture.

If that's of interest, drop me a PM and I'll give you a couple of names.

Hi,
This is very interesting. I will PM you.

 

[numberniner]

Please if anyone knows where I can find Italian suit manufacturer for my own brand let me know!

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Isaia.
Brioni is ok but bit overated.
The rest is mentioned in the thread.

It’s always so interesting how opinions vary on such matters. Brioni is expensive and I’ll reserve judgement on the overpriced/overrated label, but they are well made.

I’ve always found Isaia to be the least bang for the buck.