Indonesian Boot Makers (Onderhoud, Benzein, RenavGoods, Santalum, etc)

[theofficialhung]

To add several more data points to Benzein sizing - my HTB is 10D/E but I was sized based on my HTT at 9.5E. I got Kapak 2.0 side zips in 42 and Kujang chelseas in 42.5 (Adi recommended 42 but I went against his advice).

The Kapak boots are a little too narrow for me and I should have went with 42 wide or 42.5. The Kujang boots are slightly too big and I had to wear with an insert (I've sold them since).

 

[theofficialhung]

@heathenist Benzein/Briselblack are using a soft heel counter for their boots, it's a new development for them. If you want a "normal" hard heel counter, you have to specifically ask for it.

There are briselblacks popping up in the stitchdown discord with soft heel counters - almost like unstructured toes. I personally would not want a soft heel counter especially for a pull on boot like the side zip or Chelsea or engineers.

 

[jischwar]

@heathenist Benzein/Briselblack are using a soft heel counter for their boots, it's a new development for them. If you want a "normal" hard heel counter, you have to specifically ask for it.

There are briselblacks popping up in the stitchdown discord with soft heel counters - almost like unstructured toes. I personally would not want a soft heel counter especially for a pull on boot like the side zip or Chelsea or engineers.

Good point

 

[heathenist]

@heathenist Benzein/Briselblack are using a soft heel counter for their boots, it's a new development for them. If you want a "normal" hard heel counter, you have to specifically ask for it.

There are briselblacks popping up in the stitchdown discord with soft heel counters - almost like unstructured toes. I personally would not want a soft heel counter especially for a pull on boot like the side zip or Chelsea or engineers.

Hmmm, I’m not in the discord. What are they using for their heel counters that make them soft? What is the alternative?

As for sizing, it honestly seems like a bit of a crapshoot regardless. I suppose if I ended up with a half size too big I could put in an insert, but would rather not have to do that. Any other Benzein/Briselback owners care to chime in?

Also, what kind of return can I expect if I do end up having to sell? 70-80% of cost?

 

[theofficialhung]

Hmmm, I’m not in the discord. What are they using for their heel counters that make them soft? What is the alternative?

As for sizing, it honestly seems like a bit of a crapshoot regardless. I suppose if I ended up with a half size too big I could put in an insert, but would rather not have to do that. Any other Benzein/Briselback owners care to chime in?

Also, what kind of return can I expect if I do end up having to sell? 70-80% of cost?

I won't share the actual text messages here but Benzein says they are using a new leather for the heel due to some customers complaining about it being too hard (this makes no sense to me).

You can ask for a regular heel counter otherwise your heel will be soft and have little/no structure.

 

[Mr_Spud]

To add several more data points to Benzein sizing - my HTB is 10D/E but I was sized based on my HTT at 9.5E. I got Kapak 2.0 side zips in 42 and Kujang chelseas in 42.5 (Adi recommended 42 but I went against his advice).

The Kapak boots are a little too narrow for me and I should have went with 42 wide or 42.5. The Kujang boots are slightly too big and I had to wear with an insert (I've sold them since).

Meaning his advice was sound and deviating from it meant poor fit?

 

[Mr_Spud]

W

@heathenist Benzein/Briselblack are using a soft heel counter for their boots, it's a new development for them. If you want a "normal" hard heel counter, you have to specifically ask for it.

There are briselblacks popping up in the stitchdown discord with soft heel counters - almost like unstructured toes. I personally would not want a soft heel counter especially for a pull on boot like the side zip or Chelsea or engineers.

hen you say 'popping up' you mean they are being put up for sale?

 

[heathenist]

@heathenist Benzein/Briselblack are using a soft heel counter for their boots, it's a new development for them. If you want a "normal" hard heel counter, you have to specifically ask for it.

There are briselblacks popping up in the stitchdown discord with soft heel counters - almost like unstructured toes. I personally would not want a soft heel counter especially for a pull on boot like the side zip or Chelsea or engineers.

I talked with whoever does their WhatsApp, and apparently they got a ton of people messaging them about the heel counters the past couple of days and are going to go back to the thick leather heel counters they were using before. If I recall correctly, some people thought those were relatively soft too though.

 

[theofficialhung]

Meaning his advice was sound and deviating from it meant poor fit?

Kapak was wrong I should sized up or gone TTS. Kujang was right, I went TTS and it was slightly roomy for me.

By popping up I meant that owners were posting about their boots when they receive them.

 

[theofficialhung]

I talked with whoever does their WhatsApp, and apparently they got a ton of people messaging them about the heel counters the past couple of days and are going to go back to the thick leather heel counters they were using before. If I recall correctly, some people thought those were relatively soft too though.

If it's the WhatsApp acct you are probably talking to Adi

 

[XWT]

Review originally posted on r/goodyearwelt

Initial Impressions : Onderhoud LVL01 in W&C Med Brown Harness

Album here



Story

Like a lot of us I was drawn to Onderhoud by seeing people share what they got from the elusive brand. The fact that they are really hard to get added to the mystique, so when I got the chance to become a client I took it. The entire process took about 9 months and we had to change upper materials – a change which was entirely welcome on my part because this Wickett and Craig harness is one of the leathers I wanted to experience at some point. Communication was good, in a responsive way more than a proactive way.

These are the LVL01 captoe brogue. Like a lot of people who likes nice shoes and boots, I wanted to have things I could dress up a little. I live in a small town and sometimes have to clean up for work. I wanted shoes that I could pound pavement all day with but that would also clean up really well. Something that I could wear with jeans and a chore coat, but also with chinos and a button-down shirt. I already have a pair of Viberg 145 oxfords in that vein so I knew I’d find use cases. I’m pleasantly surprised by how dressed up they can look and wouldn’t hesitate to pair them with casual tailoring in fabrics like tweed or corduroy.

Specs

* LVL01 captoe brogue
* Wickett and Craig Medium Brown Harness
* Natural upper thread
* Brass eyelets
* Size 42D
* Veldtschoen construction
* Structured toe
* Natural welt and edge finish
* Natural outsole stitching
* Brown Cork Supergrip halfsole
* Block heels
* Unspecified last
* \+/- $520

Construction

Like some other beloved products, this is a shoe but it’s definitely made like a boot (Viber 145 oxford, Rolling Dub Trio Coupen, Nicks Comstock, etc,)

I’m impressed in general by how sturdily built it is, however I would not go as far as saying that it’s superior to the other Indonesian brands that I have experience with, namely Benzein and Sagara. It’s a very similar build quality at a very similar price point.

A thing I like is that the welt is thinner than some other boots I had, where it’s almost as thick as a midsole. This helps with the proportions.

Finishing

The multiple rows of stitching appear to be quite straight and with a nice density.

The point where the cap toe attaches to the vamp and where the vamp meets the welt are both finished cleanly.

The toe caps are straight enough.

The stitching inside looks as good as outside.

Looking at the somewhat crude finishing of the edges from the upper serves as a reminder that those LVL01 are rugged in their purpose. It’s not the degree of finishing one would expect from a bespoke dress shoe – but it’s also very much not a bespoke dress shoe.

Comfort

It’s the proper size for me and I’ll only know how comfortable it is when I start wearing them for real, which I may wait until next year’s Patina Tunderdome to do. I feel like they will be really comfortable when the sole are broken in, and I don’t think the break-in process will be particularly hard.

Conclusion

I’m happy with the end result. They’re really good looking and will fit my sense of dress and lifestyle quite well. The value appears good. The wait was long so I don’t recommend it to someone who’s not really ok with waiting for a while. Basically not a good fit for someone wanting to get into the hobby, despite the affordability. What you don’t pay in money, you pay in patience. I would order again from Onderhoud if the opportunity came up because their tall packer boot, which is one of the good unique designs out there.

 

[Sneaky Pete]

Selling some Indo boots - they have way too much volume for my dainty feet
Maker: Santalum

Size: 44

Leather: Horween waxed flesh

Sole: Dr Sole half sole

Price: $200 or make me an offer

Location: London, UK

Condition: I was wearing them when I had a paint spill and there was a bit of splashage (see some remaining marks on sole, which can easily be dealt with), and a bit of paint on the body of the boot itself which I dyed over on Horween's recommendation with Fiebling. I also managed to take a small chunk off the midsole of the right boot, outer side (see pic just above small paint splash). Shipping from the UK. Despite the cosmetic damage they are in otherwise very good shape and barely worn, as the soles show

Images:

Maker : Jakkrabbits

Size: 44

Leather: Indonesian brown pull-up (although I can’t see much pull-up in it, to be frank)

Sole: Dr Sole burlap half sole

Construction: Norwegian Storm Welt

Price: $250 or make me an offer (they cost $340)

Location: London, UK

Condition: Worn a few times for the Dome until I realised after a few wears (around mid-Oct) that they are just too voluminous for me, even with innersoles and tongue pads (tongue pads are still in). As you can see from the soles, they have been lightly worn.

They are very solidly made and the stitching is excellent.

 

[aj2603]

 

[Jello]

Briselblack(Benzein) natural Shinki Borneo last

 

[heathenist]

Briselblack(Benzein) natural Shinki Borneo last

Beautiful. What was the wait time?