Folded Up Shirt Appreciation

[Shirtmaven]

We were further north in Lecco and Bellagio.

And you were spot on with the observation about the first stud being a different length away from the collar on the two shirts. And pretty significantly different. I asked LA that the shirt they are currently working on have the shorter spacing. Thanks for catching this.

Also, I‘ve never had this before but my bow tie bled into my shirt from the sweat. This was not my ivory tuxedo nor my summer tuxedo shirt (which I wore to the pre-wedding party in Milan). But I’ve worn that grosgrain tie at least 25 times. I’ve taken it to the Stu Bloom of Milano (with prices to match) for immediate attention.
View attachment 2021547

I like Bellagio...
I have seen ties bleed onto shirts when it is very hot and sweaty.
I am glad I could spot the difference...

 

[Crispyj]

Shirts from Naples.

 

[Marshak]

Shirts from Naples.
View attachment 2042269

So, what's your shirt level satisfaction about Andrea?

 

[Crispyj]

So, what's your shirt level satisfaction about Andrea?

Very good for the price! Other than limited fabrics, he makes a great shirt! I just got standard size 41 neck and adjusted sleeves/cuffs and the fit is great.

I asked for softer fusing this time around. Also 0.5cm off the collar.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Shirts from Naples.
View attachment 2042269

they look nice. how long is that collar point? Is there a pocket for a collar stay?

 

[Crispyj]

they look nice. how long is that collar point? Is there a pocket for a collar stay?

9.5cm no pocket for collar stay on my previous order.

 

[brax]

We were further north in Lecco and Bellagio.

And you were spot on with the observation about the first stud being a different length away from the collar on the two shirts. And pretty significantly different. I asked LA that the shirt they are currently working on have the shorter spacing. Thanks for catching this.

Also, I‘ve never had this before but my bow tie bled into my shirt from the sweat. This was not my ivory tuxedo nor my summer tuxedo shirt (which I wore to the pre-wedding party in Milan). But I’ve worn that grosgrain tie at least 25 times. I’ve taken it to the Stu Bloom of Milano (with prices to match) for immediate attention.
View attachment 2021547

To close this loop, I took the shirt to the Rave FabriCare of Milano (with prices to match). They did an excellent job and were able to remove the silk stain. Tintoria La Vecchia Milano off Via Dell’Orso.

 

[Shirtmaven]

9.5cm no pocket for collar stay on my previous order.

3.75" is a very large collar. I hope you are tall and slim!

 

[Thomas Auer]

Did a marcella fronted tux shirt for a friend a while ago. The marcella is from acorn and rather heavy and the body is made from a zephyr cloth from Grandi e Rubinelli.

 

[aristoi bcn]

Soft cotton flannel by Grandi & Rubinelli. Used by A&S in their RtW pyjamas.

 

[jonathanS]

3.75" is a very large collar. I hope you are tall and slim!

Why would being tall help?

To me, 9-10cm collars work best, full stop. A lot of rtw collars that aren’t long enough to cleanly disappear under the suit jacket lapels / collars don’t look good.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Why would being tall help?

To me, 9-10cm collars work best, full stop. A lot of rtw collars that aren’t long enough to cleanly disappear under the suit jacket lapels / collars don’t look good.

For you! You can't put that collar on someone who is 5'8" 220 pounds. It would be up by his ears.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Soft cotton flannel by Grandi & Rubinelli. Used by A&S in their RtW pyjamas.

View attachment 2052237 View attachment 2052239 View attachment 2052241 View attachment 2052243 View attachment 2052245 View attachment 2052247

This is a copy of Isaia collar. He can carry it because he is slim
@jonathanS

 

[jonathanS]

For you! You can't put that collar on someone who is 5'8" 220 pounds. It would be up by his ears.

Hmm. Maybe. I guess I was thinking on averages. Men are 5 10 & probably 180 pounds on average. To me, maybe a 9cm collar but you don’t want to go too small. I think the shirts with smaller collars fashion houses were doing in the early 2010s were not good.

larger men - someone like the rock -, imo, carry a larger collar (or any professional athlete, for that matter). 9-10cm seems to be the sweet spot. I think that’s 3.5-4”. In fact, a smaller collar wouldn’t look right.

I’m not sure about a 5 8 man; 5 8 220, his frame would be so large, I’d think he needs a larger collar, no? I’m asking because you’re obviously more of an expert than me.

 

[Shirtmaven]

Hmm. Maybe. I guess I was thinking on averages. Men are 5 10 & probably 180 pounds on average. To me, maybe a 9cm collar but you don’t want to go too small. I think the shirts with smaller collars fashion houses were doing in the early 2010s were not good.

larger men - someone like the rock -, imo, carry a larger collar (or any professional athlete, for that matter). 9-10cm seems to be the sweet spot. I think that’s 3.5-4”. In fact, a smaller collar wouldn’t look right.

I’m not sure about a 5 8 man; 5 8 220, his frame would be so large, I’d think he needs a larger collar, no? I’m asking because you’re obviously more of an expert than me.

it is all about balance. the Isaia collar has a very high band. Look at the shirts made by Will Whiting. all of those collars have a very high band. it does not work for everyone.
I see very wide spreads on the sports talk shows with big knots. i think it looks terrible.
a heavier man usually looks better with a straighter point collar.
I will have to post a photo of a larger and longer point collar with a straiger spread.
I like the way that looks.