CM combinations and silhouettes constructive improvement thread

[JohnMRobie]

How are my shoulder lines?

Spoiler: Fits

View attachment 1874839 View attachment 1874840 View attachment 1874841 View attachment 1874842 View attachment 1874843 View attachment 1874844

I dunno man. Not the best. I think you ought to send them to me for proper disposal. 😏

 

[GoldenBrahms]

@GoldenBrahms, I was thinking something in red, blue, or maybe brown would look good, not necessarily large stripes, but maybe something like these:

Something with medallions should work too.

Thanks for the examples - I can definitely see a few that would work well. May have to add some similar ones to my collection. I have a vintage Talbot similar to the 3rd from the right.

 

[Sreezy36]

@Crispyj out of all the the tailors that you have tried so far, which one do you feel works best for your body type. In regards to both overall comfort and silhouette?

 

[Crispyj]

@Crispyj out of all the the tailors that you have tried so far, which one do you feel works best for your body type. In regards to both overall comfort and silhouette?

As you can see, most of the orders are being finished 😅 . I'll have a definitive answer once I receive the jackets.

 

[Despos]

@BlueSteel and @Jmr928 There's a few pics of comrade in the old SF meetup threads, such as here (beard).

@GoldenBrahms, I was thinking something in red, blue, or maybe brown would look good, not necessarily large stripes, but maybe something like these:
View attachment 1874838
Something with medallions should work too.

This is a good point. I don't think the tie doesn't work there. I just don't like checked ties in general.

Btw, I was thinking of one style preference I have that's related to @Jmr928's point about responding to one's body type. Since I'm fairly thin, I tend to prefer rounded lines: patch pockets, lapels with some belly, curved quarters, and natural shoulders. (so, convex? Maybe you could explain more, @Despos. I remember this old thread by @jefferyd, but I never thought natural or knocked down shoulders affected movement or comfort.) I think they soften fairly angular appearance. And I think jackets like that make one look a little more approachable, more sweater than suit of armor.

If you read Jeffery's post closely he explains that natural and knocked down don't refer to the shoulder but how the sleeve head is finished.

 

[comrade]

Why higher gorge and wider lapels? The proportions are pretty good on the guy.

Doesn't he just needs to remove the paddings in his shoulders?

Sure, the padding could be reduced.I just like higher gorge and wider lapels.

 

[msimon]

What's the consensus on shirt fits for summer?. Do you use your same shirt size for all types or do you perhaps take a linen shirt but make the midsection larger for more flow during hot weather?.

 

[JohnMRobie]

What's the consensus on shirt fits for summer?. Do you use your same shirt size for all types or do you perhaps take a linen shirt but make the midsection larger for more flow during hot weather?.

Questions such as these are more appropriately posted here.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Does the pattern/color of this Balmacaan limit its versatility?

www.styleforum.net

Let’s please try to reserve this thread for it’s intended purpose found in the title of discussing improvement utilizing various silhouettes and combinations.

 

[Sreezy36]

Questions such as these are more appropriately posted here.

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Does the pattern/color of this Balmacaan limit its versatility?

www.styleforum.net

Let’s please try to reserve this thread for it’s intended purpose found in the title of discussing improvement utilizing various silhouettes and combinations.

 

[Sreezy36]

If you read Jeffery's post closely he explains that natural and knocked down don't refer to the shoulder but how the sleeve head is finished.

This is actually very interesting. In his example, all of the shoulders were identical and the only difference was the sleevehead expression. Depending on how the sleevehead is expressed it can create an overall illusion of width/extension (roped/rollino) and narrow roundness (bald/spalla camicia).

 

[emptym]

Thanks for the examples - I can definitely see a few that would work well. May have to add some similar ones to my collection. I have a vintage Talbot similar to the 3rd from the right.

That one is an old Talbot! Probably the same tie. The red looks brighter in the pic than in person.

If you read Jeffery's post closely he explains that natural and knocked down don't refer to the shoulder but how the sleeve head is finished.

Yeah, I first wrote something about it being the sleeve head in that thread, despite its title. But that was the quickest thing I could find having anything to do with convex and concave shoulders. And I remember that you've mentioned it a few times, and I've never quite understood it. Could you pease explain what you mean about concave or convex shoulders? Maybe a picture could show the difference? GoldenBrahms's jacket's shoulders, for example, looked convex to me. So I'm guessing I'm missing something, and would really appreciate it if you could educate me on it.

 

[comrade]

Please. Because all I can imagine with those measurements and weight walking around in a 56 is this
View attachment 1874732

OK. Here are some pics of me at the SF 10th Anniversary Party 10 years ago.
At the time I weighed 170-175. I am wearing a Belvest cashmere blazer from
Wilkes-Bashford size 54 with (ugh !) extended shoulders. My trousers are
bespoke from a now-retired no name tailor in San Francisco. On my left is SF member
"archivist" Mark. I have no photos handy of the one 56R I own. It is also Belvest from
Berdorf about12 years ago.

 

[comrade]

Another shot of same jacket:

 

[comrade]

Belvest Wilkes-Bashford Size 54 Brown Nailhead Identical model

 

[JohnMRobie]

Another shot of same jacket: View attachment 1875126

Thanks. Definitely helpful to be able to see instead of just hearing numbers thrown together. With the silhouette - I think it would be super interesting to hear what you were after with the decisions on sizing, cut, details etc and why/how they work with your body etc.

If I recall you also had gone bespoke with Rubi? Did you notice the fit being a significant departure from your RTW stuff given it’s a departure from their house style? Or did you steer them down a similar path?