Best MTM or bespoke options in NY?

[epsilon22]

That moment when you realize your $5K bespoke shoes may actually be $6K.


Well, depending on where you pick up, it may not be much different, most of EU has 20% VAT, Japan has around 10% I think? Then if you carry them in your bags you may get checked at the airport and asked to declare them, which essentially means double dipping on taxes.

FWIW I've asked two makers, Hiro Yanagimachi and Nicholas Templeman about US import duties, both of them essentially said they don't know and did not give me a number (or range). I guess I'll find out in a couple months!

 

[tuna roll]

Everyone is different. I know if I tried picking up from kotaro in person, he’d say no because he has to report it for tax reasons to Italy (thus not charge me vat).

But everyone is different. Satoki kawai delivered in person & I obviously avoided taxes that way.

You might be able to just have seiji deliver it to you in person (just tell him you want him to look at it when he delivers).

Also, a friend of mine usually tells the tailor or customs agent it’s a sample & that’s taxed at a lower rate. I think closer to 5%.

I see. I actually visited Seiji in December and ordered a MTM pair. I mentioned I had plans to come back to Tokyo in 2025 and he said I could either pick it up in person or have him ship it to the US. I’m not sure it’s the same if you order remotely or from his US trunk shows though.

 

[jonathanS]

That moment when you realize your $5K bespoke shoes may actually be $6K.


Well, depending on where you pick up, it may not be much different, most of EU has 20% VAT, Japan has around 10% I think? Then if you carry them in your bags you may get checked at the airport and asked to declare them, which essentially means double dipping on taxes.

FWIW I've asked two makers, Hiro Yanagimachi and Nicholas Templeman about US import duties, both of them essentially said they don't know and did not give me a number (or range). I guess I'll find out in a couple months!

Alternative solution: pay in cash. Ask them to declare a low value.

Disclaimer: I’m not advocating tax evasion. Use these tips at your own risk. I’d never personally do any of these. But I’ve thought about it.

For shirt makers, I always place my order such that the order value is under 800. Which avoids taxes legally.

 

[tuna roll]

Well, depending on where you pick up, it may not be much different, most of EU has 20% VAT, Japan has around 10% I think?

Yes. In the EU and Japan, depending on the maker / store, you can receive most of the VAT back (tax free shopping). Not everyone does that though.

 

[epsilon22]

Hiro said he doesn't refund the Japan sales taxes if I pick the shoes up there. Asking to receive it in person might be tricky as well since I ordered during my trip there and not through Leffot, and I'm not sure how they'd handle taxes there either, if I get charged NY taxes that might be more expensive (I'm currently renting across the river to save on taxes).

 

[tuna roll]

Alternative solution: pay in cash. Ask them to declare a low value.

Disclaimer: I’m not advocating tax evasion. Use these tips at your own risk. I’d never personally do any of these. But I’ve thought about it.

For shirt makers, I always place my order such that the order value is under 800. Which avoids taxes legally.

I personally don’t do that as well, also because it essentially voids insurance in case something happens to your package (you receive the declared $700 or so instead of $3-5k or whatever you paid for those bespoke shoes)

 

[JohnMRobie]

Obviously everyone and their friends are welcome to do what they feel is best, I’m not an attorney, a priest or an accountant. My suggestion @epsilon22 is to spend some time with the tariff guide and find the code for “Welted Footwear” which I believe is the lowest % for importing shoes rather than more generic ones and the technically accurate one. Given Nicholas and Seiji both speak English explaining the code you’d like them to use and having your ducks in a row is probably easier than a shoemaker who just slaps “shoes” on the label.

 

[epsilon22]

We really need a What Are You Avoiding Tax On Today thread.

 

[tuna roll]

We really need a What Are You Avoiding Tax On Today thread.

sign me up!

Given Nicholas and Seiji both speak English explaining the code you’d like them to use and having your ducks in a row is probably easier than a shoemaker who just slaps “shoes” on the label.

Excellent suggestion

 

[jonathanS]

Obviously everyone and their friends are welcome to do what they feel is best, I’m not an attorney, a priest or an accountant. My suggestion @epsilon22 is to spend some time with the tariff guide and find the code for “Welted Footwear” which I believe is the lowest % for importing shoes rather than more generic ones and the technically accurate one. Given Nicholas and Seiji both speak English explaining the code you’d like them to use and having your ducks in a row is probably easier than a shoemaker who just slaps “shoes” on the label.

Yes I think that’s around 7% maybe even 5%. Just look for something that loosely fits the description (you can make a decent good faith argument about it) and pay that if they stop it.

 

[perlustrator]

I got a suite made by P Johnson a few years ago and am very happy with the result. Their prices are about in-line with The Armoury.

 

[David Reeves]

Deleted for brevity.

I would put @David Reeves in mid and high-end. He has a starter bespoke package for $4k, which is just slightly more than Armoury MTM. He also has a high-end bespoke package starting at $6k.

The 4k suit is truly Bespoke it just omits the basted fitting, collar and lining is not hand stitched nor is the waistband and there is no deposit. Tbh though I bet most people couldn't tell the difference or even think about whether a collar, waistband and lining is attached by hand but these are expensive to do. Also which I think is important, If I think you need a basted fitting on the 4k suit I will do one anyway just as a tool for myself to make sure I get it right. If you really want a basted fitting even if I don't think it's necessary you can have one for an upcharge. With a total of 7000 suits out the door all personally measured and fitted myself I think I have the XP to say that some customers really don't need a basted fitting.