Jantzen Order in the Works

I'm currently working on a moderate-sized Jantzen order and wanted to see if anyone had any opinions on my choices.

I'll be editing this post as I finalize the details; I'm hoping that it serves as a way to organize all the details, attract real-time feedback, and persists as a sample order for others looking to place orders.

Thanks for the input!

Fabrics

• Jantzen*2009, White Fine Twill with Blue Fine Stripes, 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Dobby #46, White Heavy Pique with Texture, The Real Fabric is 100% Snow White! 100's, 2Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Dobby #21, White with Very Small Check Dobby, 120's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Jantzen*2295,Pink End on End , 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Jantzen*2404, Lilac with White and Burgundy Stripes, 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Turkish Cotton.
  
  
  
  
• Plain Cotton #21, Super Fine Light Blue Plain Cotton, 140's, Sea Island Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Jantzen*2006, White Diamond Dobby with Pink Pique Stripes, 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Jantzen*2340, White Dobby with Light Blue and Brown Stripe, 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• Checkers #704, Blue & Brown& White Hound's Tooth, (Soft Cotton) 100's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton.
  
  
  
  
• #3, Blue End & End Design 120's, 2 Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  
  
  
• OUT OF STOCK Dobby #95, Baby Pink Medium Weight Twill, 110's, 2Ply, 100% Italian Cotton
  
  

Cuff Style:



Plain front/back:

or

Collar Options (maybe french cuff/collars for some ... TBD) :

Collar #29 New Italian High Dual Buttons Classic Spread

Collar #A16 England Spread

Collar #30 (3"3/8x 1"3/4) New Italian Fin Collar


Buttons:

Thick Mother of Pearl Button (3.55 mm), 1 cm Diameter, Special Wok Shape:


Other Notes:

After the shirts have been made, please take two 1" darts in the lower back of the shirt.

Contrast stitching for buttonholes (specify separate color for each shirt TBD)

Include measurements from shoulder to pit and cuff opening to get the best armhole/sleeve results

Sleeve **** Extra Button

Self-color triangular gussets

Specify collar height/spread

Split yoke is needed for pattern-matching

wow that's a lot of shirts

Originally Posted by daft

Click to expand...

wow that's a lot of shirts

I'll probably replace one or two of those swatches as I mull it over a bit more; before I place the order I'll get help from the forum members to cut the order down to about 5 shirts.

You'll have to tell us what the final product is like when you get them next year.

There's an announcement at the bottom of the Jantzen home page - "most old materials out of stock, please order from the following links". The linked fabrics were all of the form Jantzen*2XXX, so many of your choices may no longer be available.

I posted a picture of the blue version of Jantzen 2006 on one of the most recent Jantzen fabric threads so go have a look at a finished product. I have at least a half dozen of the solid whites and one of the solid blues, both 140s. I have the blue, grey, and white version of your pink very small herringbone.

I like all the fabrics for the price. The Jantzen 2006 (assuming it's identical in every way to my blue version) has a nice meaty hand to it but isn't particularly soft. I like the look of it and it is one of my favourite shirts.

The sea island white and blue solid feels a bit like paper but again for the price I don't think you can get a much better deal. It's a tad translucent but beyond that I am happy to forgive and forget.

The pink herringbone, assuming it's the same as my blue, white, and grey ones is also a meaty fabric and I've had a bit of an issue with pilling on the grey one. I don't know why.

I leave my cuffs to round french of round single button barrel. I can't stand double buttons in either the horizontal or vertical direction, myself, and I am incredibly tired of double button collars, but to each their own. I typically get a 2" band and a 3.5-3.75" collar point. I like big collars. I used to request hard interlining but had an issue with snapping it on some of my older contrast-collar shirts. I switched to medium interlining for my herringbones which worked well but I decided to switch back to the hard interlining for my blue version of your 2006 pink stripe. I say the collar is my favourite on that one. I chose the New Italian Fin collar and have stuck with is. My first few orders a few years ago were with the England spread. It was ok but I haven't tried it since. I may give it another go the next time I make an order. Oh, and a french placket and shoulder pleats go without question on my orders but that's entirely to taste. I used to like the placket with edge stitching but now prefer it with their standard 3/8". I ask for it specifically if I have weird stitching on the collars/cuffs.

Good luck with the ordering process.

What are shoulder pleats? And what is the different between a normal placket and a french placket?

I like the England spread collar more than the fin collar because it has a tad bit more height, which I prefer ... is the difference noticeable in your mind, and would they be able to make a "New Italian Fine Collar" with a 2" height for me?

Thanks

Originally Posted by houserichichi

Click to expand...

I posted a picture of the blue version of Jantzen 2006 on one of the most recent Jantzen fabric threads so go have a look at a finished product. I have at least a half dozen of the solid whites and one of the solid blues, both 140s. I have the blue, grey, and white version of your pink very small herringbone.

I like all the fabrics for the price. The Jantzen 2006 (assuming it's identical in every way to my blue version) has a nice meaty hand to it but isn't particularly soft. I like the look of it and it is one of my favourite shirts.

The sea island white and blue solid feels a bit like paper but again for the price I don't think you can get a much better deal. It's a tad translucent but beyond that I am happy to forgive and forget.

The pink herringbone, assuming it's the same as my blue, white, and grey ones is also a meaty fabric and I've had a bit of an issue with pilling on the grey one. I don't know why.

I leave my cuffs to round french of round single button barrel. I can't stand double buttons in either the horizontal or vertical direction, myself, and I am incredibly tired of double button collars, but to each their own. I typically get a 2" band and a 3.5-3.75" collar point. I like big collars. I used to request hard interlining but had an issue with snapping it on some of my older contrast-collar shirts. I switched to medium interlining for my herringbones which worked well but I decided to switch back to the hard interlining for my blue version of your 2006 pink stripe. I say the collar is my favourite on that one. I chose the New Italian Fin collar and have stuck with is. My first few orders a few years ago were with the England spread. It was ok but I haven't tried it since. I may give it another go the next time I make an order. Oh, and a french placket and shoulder pleats go without question on my orders but that's entirely to taste. I used to like the placket with edge stitching but now prefer it with their standard 3/8". I ask for it specifically if I have weird stitching on the collars/cuffs.

Good luck with the ordering process.

Also, does anyone know what kind of weave is shown in this blue shirt behind the buttons?

You can specify the collar band height regardless what they show in the description. My collars are all 1.75-2" high in the back regardless of what the picture shows. The shoulder pleats are on the back, the little folds at the shoulders rather than the diagram you showed that has a perfectly flat back. The french placket is displayed there on the order form versus the plain front and the fly front. The french has stitching on both sides and looks more proper to my eye, but that's a personal preference I suppose. I believe my fin collar is more spread than my english spread but I'll have to take another look and let you know. It's been eons since I wore the english spread collar shirts.

Just a general question:

Has anyone ever ordered a shirt from Jantzen and not started their own thread about it??

dude,

stop being a parade pisser. You don't have to comment. Besides, these posts are incredibly helpful for those who haven't ordered yet.

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

Click to expand...

Just a general question:

Has anyone ever ordered a shirt from Jantzen and not started their own thread about it??

Originally Posted by Coho

Click to expand...

dude,

stop being a parade pisser. You don't have to comment. Besides, these posts are incredibly helpful for those who haven't ordered yet.

Anything mentioned in this thread will have already been answered ad nauseum by the 350 other Jantzen threads that someone could find by using the search function.
Anyway, I was being quasi-facetious, don't get your panties all bunched.

There are alot of Jantzen threads, and I've read them all. I'd like this to be a complete reference on what to specify and how to order. Once the order is placed, I'll post more informaiton on the actual ordering process and how long it takes. I'll also take pictures and so forth. In the end this thread will hopefully be a valuable reference to others...

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

Click to expand...

Anything mentioned in this thread will have already been answered ad nauseum by the 350 other Jantzen threads that someone could find by using the search function.
Anyway, I was being quasi-facetious, don't get your panties all bunched.

Why would you ever pick a Turkish cotton when there are so many great patterns available that use better-quality Italian cotton?

I don't have anything against Turkey - it is a wonderful country to visit. And I'm sure that they can grow nice cotton. But the best cotton mills are in Italy and Switzerland. I would think twice about picking any material that was made in Turkey.

I sent an email to Ricky today at 10:48am to inquire about the fabrics in this list that are not part of the "Latest Materials" selection.

Once I hear back from him, I'll update the list of fabrics.

As for the Turkish cotton, it's a nice look but ultimately, which all the striped fabrics in the list, it may not be one that I actually order...