Maurizio Amadei's latest stuff?

I was wondering if anyone else has seen and would like to comment on some of these pieces. I took a gander at some of the stuff at Alan Bilzerian today, and it is pretty remarkable, if not at all my style, and wwwwaaaayyyy out of my price range.

The designer is formerly of Carpe diem, and one of the leather jackets looks remarkably like the lazer cut jacket from the Carpe Diem FW06 line (I will look for a picture of the Carpe Diem jacket as well as one from the MA+ line to let you guys compare.) But the real interesting piece was a funnel necked long coat made out of spun wool that was very spongey with treated surface, also laser cut to reveal the material. Truly remarkable. The cutting was amazing as well, and impossible to do except by hand, with lots of three dimensional seams. Of course, the price was out of the world as well. Somewhere north of $3500 for the coat. I am hoping that Dracula, and not Elton John or Robin Williams, ends up appreciating this coat.

Other than Atelier and Alan Bilzerian, I am not sure who carries it. I assume that Maxfield has it.

Edit: There was also a remarkable distressed leather belt with a single small, cross rivet and a twisted leather self keeper (hard to explain,) but I think that the wife would have killed me for buying a $650 belt.

http://www.mattotti.co.jp/shelter/sh...oss3/index.htm Ah, here we are. Unfortunately, the pieces look like ass on that site. ime, a lot of Japanese have somewhat shorter limbs than members of other Asian ethnicities, and the model there is no different. Also, he is too fat to wear the clothes. irl, the stuff fits much better. There is a picture of the belt (the black one, but in the lighter brown) and the coat, in any case, although the details in the coat cannot be seen in these pics.

wow! didn't know that alan bilzerian is carrying m.a+ the prices are truly ridiculous.

btw, is the belt you're talking about a slim belt with a **** in the belt to hold the other end in? if so, i have it and got it from atelier for around $250.

i need to go to ab soon.

Maybe its just me but I don't get any of this. I want to; I can see the design, the cut, the attention to detail, and the quality. Once executed most of this looks like esoteric clothes for people who wish they had something more to say. I like the artisan approach to clothing some of these designers take but it always seems the items I like are the articles they would hardly consider "signature". If you buy the belt just tell your wife there was no way to get cheaper since MA stuff is not meant to go on sale. P.S. If you ever meet MA tell him to stop hating buttons and button holes or trying to re-invent them. He's probably going to get pissed and scream at you but just hug him and he'll stop trying to fight and start sobbing.

Originally Posted by ddohnggo

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wow! didn't know that alan bilzerian is carrying m.a+ the prices are truly ridiculous.

btw, is the belt you're talking about a slim belt with a **** in the belt to hold the other end in? if so, i have it and got it from atelier for around $250.

i need to go to ab soon.

No, it's not the slim belt (yeah, that one is cheaper) but the wider one -just over 1.5" wide. I think that the retail is $600+ everywhere. I can tell you that the stuff, if it doesn't sell, will go on sale at Alan's. IME, everything but socks do, including stuff from older MA+, LMaltieri and Carpe Diem.

BTW, ddohnggo, I meant to tell the guys over at Faust's site a lot earlier, but I have too many accounts on too many sites already, but the information is wrong about MA+ having been carried in the US only at Atelier in past seasons. AB has had the stuff for a while now, I believe from the first season, including footwear which was available in very limited quantities. iirc, AB had several models of boots last year.

Originally Posted by Rome

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Maybe its just me but I don't get any of this. I want to; I can see the design, the cut, the attention to detail, and the quality. Once executed most of this looks like esoteric clothes for people who wish they had something more to say. I like the artisan approach to clothing some of these designers take but it always seems the items I like are the articles they would hardly consider "signature".

If you buy the belt just tell your wife there was no way to get cheaper since MA stuff is not meant to go on sale.

P.S. If you ever meet MA tell him to stop hating buttons and button holes or trying to re-invent them. He's probably going to get pissed and scream at you but just hug him and he'll stop trying to fight and start sobbing.



The clothes are pretty escoteric, but I think that the cutting and the materials really make up for the pretentiousness and preciousness of some the details (like the ridiculous buttons). That being said, the clothes do seem to be generally worn by people who wish they had something more to say. And that's too bad

I haven't seen the new MA+ stuff in person yet (I'll comment in more detail next month) but it seems rather derivative of his work with Altieri and of his own old collections. The pieces are undeniably well made and impresively cut, but the overall collection leaves me colder than it did last season. It might also be that I'm still bummed that I got outbid on the structured hoodie that was recently on sale on Y!, only in Japan would someone be prepared to outbid my 1.1k max ;(

LAGuy: is that the CDiem (actually Linea) jacket you're talking about?


Shot at 2007-08-04

Originally Posted by LA Guy

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No, it's not the slim belt (yeah, that one is cheaper) but the wider one -just over 1.5" wide. I think that the retail is $600+ everywhere. I can tell you that the stuff, if it doesn't sell, will go on sale at Alan's. IME, everything but socks do, including stuff from older MA+, LMaltieri and Carpe Diem.

BTW, ddohnggo, I meant to tell the guys over at Faust's site a lot earlier, but I have too many accounts on too many sites already, but the information is wrong about MA+ having been carried in the US only at Atelier in past seasons. AB has had the stuff for a while now, I believe from the first season, including footwear which was available in very limited quantities. iirc, AB had several models of boots last year.

I believe the belt you're talking about usually retails for $650...

Originally Posted by Rome

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P.S. If you ever meet MA tell him to stop hating buttons and button holes or trying to re-invent them. He's probably going to get pissed and scream at you but just hug him and he'll stop trying to fight and start sobbing.

Actually Altieri (the Carpe Diem/Linea/Anatomica/Chromehearts/etc) designer hates buttonholes and often thinker with the designs to make them more in line with his take on the subject and Amadei probably picked this up from him. His designs are sometimes impossible to close properly when taken at your right sizing.

Originally Posted by Fuuma

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I haven't seen the new MA+ stuff in person yet (I'll comment in more detail next month) but it seems rather derivative of his work with Altieri and of his own old collections. The pieces are undeniably well made and impresively cut, but the overall collection leaves me colder than it did last season. It might also be that I'm still bummed that I got outbid on the structured hoodie that was recently on sale on Y!, only in Japan would someone be prepared to outbid my 1.1k max ;(

LAGuy: is that the CDiem (actually Linea) jacket you're talking about?


Yeah, that's the jacket I was refering to. That, that I could wear. Why do designers have to be so confusing with so many different lines? Linea, LMaltieri, CDiem, it's enough to make a man crazy. It's not like the the same few stores don't pick up all the brands. Margiela is worse, but at very least, you can just leave out the numbers when you refer to a piece.

I understand what you are saying about his stuff looking a lot like older stuff, but I think that there is some virtue in refining pieces, or playing on a theme, like Margiela or Helmut Lang does/did with certain outerwear pieces. In any case, I think that we'll have to disagree about MA+ SS07, which to me, involved a lot of experimentation to no good purpose, and consequently, no particularly good end.

i've always been a fan of that laser cut leather jacket. la guy, did you get a chance to see the price of the leather jacket at AB?

Originally Posted by ddohnggo

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i've always been a fan of that laser cut leather jacket. la guy, did you get a chance to see the price of the leather jacket at AB?

I did, but I believe that it blew up my mind and then erased itself, because I can't even remember the ballpark right now, sorry

It was well into 4 figures, if that helps. iirc, however, I believe that the one at AB was by MA+, not any of the other lines, which is why I drew the comparison. Of course, the thing that blew my mind could have altered that memory as well.

Originally Posted by Fuuma

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Actually Altieri (the Carpe Diem/Linea/Anatomica/Chromehearts/etc) designer hates buttonholes and often thinker with the designs to make them more in line with his take on the subject and Amadei probably picked this up from him. His designs are sometimes impossible to close properly when taken at your right sizing.

I know. I just place all these brands (off-shoots) and subsequent designer departures from Altieri in the same basket. Personally, I don't care enough to distinguish the nuances that differentiate them, since they are after all just nuances.

Originally Posted by Rome

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Maybe its just me but I don't get any of this. I want to; I can see the design, the cut, the attention to detail, and the quality. Once executed most of this looks like esoteric clothes for people who wish they had something more to say. I like the artisan approach to clothing some of these designers take but it always seems the items I like are the articles they would hardly consider "signature".

Please elaborate, why would more "difficult" designs be for people who have nothing to say, wouldn't they be for people who are interested in more esoteric/intellectual design, who can possibly, like everyone else, have nothing to say?

Originally Posted by Fuuma

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Please elaborate, why would more "difficult" designs be for people who have nothing to say, wouldn't they be for people who are interested in more esoteric/intellectual design, who can possibly, like everyone else, have nothing to say?

It was aimed at dressing strictly in that fashion, in those brands. This is not to say that by virtue of such interest you can only be the type of person who wishes they had something more to say. Clothes can only say so much about a person, which really isn’t that much. The Cognoscenti hype that goes into some of this clothing for art’s sake plays on this conception. You know, because it’s not just clothes, “it’s a movement”. The actualization of external expression can only be adequately represented by a broach made from obscure sources pinned to the chest of an expensive laser-cut, overlock stitched, and reversible cut-off baby tee.