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  1. The Dirty Pigeon

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    The tailor who made my tuxedo had similar concerns and, additionally, wasn’t sure if the ribbing should be horizontal or diagonal. In spite of their recommendation to not use grosgrain, I asked them to do their best and it worked out just fine. No issues that I can see.
  2. The Dirty Pigeon

    STEAKS!!!!!!!

    Does anyone have any tips for cooking 6-8 filets at one time? I have some friends coming over this weekend for a steak night but I’ve never tried cooking more than 2 at a time. I’m thinking I’ll just sear them in the cast iron pan, in batches, and then put them all in the oven together. I’m not...
  3. The Dirty Pigeon

    Lets talk about COFFEE

    I agree. I like pourover when I want one or two cups. It was my routine when I was a bachelor. These days, we use the Moccamaster for a full pot at home and I don’t miss anything, flavor wise.
  4. The Dirty Pigeon

    A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

    Interesting. Ok, I ordered a tie from him last night and requested the bottle shape. I’ll post a photo when I receive it.
  5. The Dirty Pigeon

    A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

    Did you ever get any additional info on this? It took me a while to figure out why I prefer the shape of some ties over others and I believe this is the reason. I lean toward the bottle shape.
  6. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    I’m not a tailor but this might help if nobody else responds with more info: https://propercloth.com/reference/choosing-the-optimal-neck-posture-setting/
  7. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    I would love to hear about how they resolve this, if they do. I had an almost identical issue in my example quite a few posts back with a different made-to-measure provider. The first basted fitting was near perfect but needed some tweaks. After finishing, the collar was worse and stood away...
  8. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    Sadly, I know that “tug” very well. I believe, in my case, the collar issue is due to a particularly rounded upper back that requires more fabric to span the upper back and lower rear neck but I’m not 100% sure. The chest is fairly roomy on this jacket.
  9. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Overcoat Thread

    Could somebody please recommend some sources where I might find a darker rust or reddish-brown tweed herringbone in a good overcoat weight, at least 17-18oz? I have a couple of basic RTW single breasted coats (solid camel, grey) but I’d like to order something a bit more unique this year. The...
  10. The Dirty Pigeon

    Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

    Would this Molloy Donegal Tweed be heavy enough for a classic double breasted overcoat? 610 gm/m... is that about 18-19 oz? I'm in Southern California so I don't usually require a heavy coat but I would wear it for trips to colder climates...
  11. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    I'm hoping to get a professional opinion or two on this one. Any input would greatly appreciated.
  12. The Dirty Pigeon

    The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

    Close, but no cigar. I am generally happy with the measurements here but the collar is sitting about an inch away from the back of my neck. Is this a balance issue with the back? Would any experts be available to assist with a diagnosis? Thank you.
  13. The Dirty Pigeon

    Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

    I received my first suit jacket today. This was an experiment to see if Luxire could solve some collar gap issues that I’ve struggled with from every made-to-measure and entry level bespoke maker I’ve tried so far. I had high hopes but, sadly, after two home trials and several back and forth...
  14. The Dirty Pigeon

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    Nice! Let’s see some photos when you’ve got it all sorted. Don’t forget a crisp white linen pocket square if you don’t have one. Hober is a great source for that as well.
  15. The Dirty Pigeon

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I think it depends on your height and proportions. If you’re taller than 5’8”, and average build, I’d suggest nothing less than 6”. I’m 5’5” and ordered a 5 5/8” width from Hober. It’s always weird to see larger men with little cummerbunds—it just looks like a sash type belt.
  16. The Dirty Pigeon

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I purchased some decent looking used Brooks Brothers opera pumps online at a very low price. It was only after I committed to buy them that I realized they are EEE width. Whoops. I assumed they would be way too loose but it turns out that they fit perfectly. I wear a 7D in loafers but these...
  17. The Dirty Pigeon

    Suggestions for a Fall/Winter Wedding at Mexico Resort City

    I'm trying not to overthink this but... I'll be attending a mid-November evening wedding in a Mexico resort city where the weather around that time of year typically falls between lo-70s and hi-70s with 65%-75% humidity. When I hear "resort" and "Mexico," my mind goes to lighter colors and...
  18. The Dirty Pigeon

    Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

    Oh interesting. This is their “old” logo/label. Was this made a while ago or is it recent? I actually prefer this label over the more modern looking one they use now.
  19. The Dirty Pigeon

    Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

    A question to those of you who have purchased suits and/or jackets from Luxire… do they typically add any labels for the fabric mill on the inside of the jacket as a typical bespoke or custom tailor would? Or is the standard Luxire label placed inside somewhere? Just curious. Perhaps someone can...
  20. The Dirty Pigeon

    The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

    I was flipping through a book I've had since the mid-90s, Personal Style by James Wagenvoord (1985). Pre-internet forums, this was my introduction to the world of actually giving a damn about the classic traditions of style, grooming and overall presentation. I thought I'd share the little...

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How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 104 36.7%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 103 36.4%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 36 12.7%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 46 16.3%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 41 14.5%

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