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The dapper young Rubinacci client, mafoofan, who is always generous with sharing both his experiences and photographs of what he wears, just posted photographs of recently completed bespoke jackets and a fine double-breasted flannel suit.
Let me just start out by saying that anyone would be lucky to be exercising such taste in the flesh, and when you take into account that M. is only recently out of school, it is all the more remarkable that he embodies such confidence in tailored clothes.
iammatt and he are two of the better known Rubinacci clients who post in this forum, and the response that each gets is always very interesting. iammatt's Rubinacci works appear to near universal acclaim. Yet, when others post their Rubinacci products...particularly mafoofan...the reactions are more mixed (which is actually that I expect from a bespoke garment because the nature of its individualization is not going to appeal to everyone).
Now, the reaction to M's recently posted commissions are varied.
So, as an example of how we might assess the particulars of a bespoke garment, the question that I ask today is: in a bespoke jacket, should lapel width be static or be somewhat proportional to the stature of the bespeaker (or dude, if you prefer).
Let's start with this mosaic, which takes different photographs of Rubinacci jackets and makes then comparitively uniform in dimensions:
From the upper left, and then going counterclockwise, we have iammatt in a 3 hard roll 2, mafoofan in a jacket with lapels rolling above a single button close, mafoofan in a Donegal jacket with a roll straight to a single button close, and finally, mafoofan in a double-breasted jacket with peaked lapels. Please pay particular attention to how close the edge of the lapels are to the transition from chest to shoulder.
My opinion is the following:
1. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on iammatt is what I like to see and is what I order up for my own stuff (not Rubinacci).
2. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on mafoofan in the lower left is also good, even though you can tell that mafoofan is of smaller physical stature than iammatt.
3. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on mafoofan in the upper right in the DB is also correct for me...I expect and want fuller lapels on DB jackets for myself, and I expect a peaked lapel to extend closer to the shoulder than a notch lapel on the same man.
4. But, the lapel on mafoofan's jacket on the lower right is wider than I would like. I goes past the center point of the left chest of his jacket...in fact, it appears to be so wide on the chest that it competes with, and even surpasses, the peaked DB lapel.
I tried to come up with a theory that would explain why the bottom two jackets look so different. It's not a mystery...the one in the lower left has a bit of roll above the buttoning point while the one on the right rolls hard and straight to the button. The higher roll, with a lapel cut the same way, pulls in the lapel compared to the same cut rolled lower. iammatt points out in another thread that it is stylistically typical for a Rubinacci to have a hard roll.
If so, my conclusion is that the SB lapels for mafoofan are too wide for my taste (emphasis on the last phrase). If a hard roll to the buttoning point is the Rubinacci intention, and it seems that it is, the jacket in the lower left escapes being too wide only by defying that intended roll: it rolls above the button in that photograph.
Your conclusion might be different, for example, that lapel with should be invariate with respect to physical statures.
Here are the full photographs to see the jackets in context.
Mafoofan: SB Donegal
Mafoofan: DB flannel
Mafoofan: SB tweed
iammatt: chest hair restrained by three layers of fabric
What are your opinons.
- B
Let me just start out by saying that anyone would be lucky to be exercising such taste in the flesh, and when you take into account that M. is only recently out of school, it is all the more remarkable that he embodies such confidence in tailored clothes.
iammatt and he are two of the better known Rubinacci clients who post in this forum, and the response that each gets is always very interesting. iammatt's Rubinacci works appear to near universal acclaim. Yet, when others post their Rubinacci products...particularly mafoofan...the reactions are more mixed (which is actually that I expect from a bespoke garment because the nature of its individualization is not going to appeal to everyone).
Now, the reaction to M's recently posted commissions are varied.
So, as an example of how we might assess the particulars of a bespoke garment, the question that I ask today is: in a bespoke jacket, should lapel width be static or be somewhat proportional to the stature of the bespeaker (or dude, if you prefer).
Let's start with this mosaic, which takes different photographs of Rubinacci jackets and makes then comparitively uniform in dimensions:
From the upper left, and then going counterclockwise, we have iammatt in a 3 hard roll 2, mafoofan in a jacket with lapels rolling above a single button close, mafoofan in a Donegal jacket with a roll straight to a single button close, and finally, mafoofan in a double-breasted jacket with peaked lapels. Please pay particular attention to how close the edge of the lapels are to the transition from chest to shoulder.
My opinion is the following:
1. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on iammatt is what I like to see and is what I order up for my own stuff (not Rubinacci).
2. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on mafoofan in the lower left is also good, even though you can tell that mafoofan is of smaller physical stature than iammatt.
3. The balance of the lapel to shoulder on mafoofan in the upper right in the DB is also correct for me...I expect and want fuller lapels on DB jackets for myself, and I expect a peaked lapel to extend closer to the shoulder than a notch lapel on the same man.
4. But, the lapel on mafoofan's jacket on the lower right is wider than I would like. I goes past the center point of the left chest of his jacket...in fact, it appears to be so wide on the chest that it competes with, and even surpasses, the peaked DB lapel.
I tried to come up with a theory that would explain why the bottom two jackets look so different. It's not a mystery...the one in the lower left has a bit of roll above the buttoning point while the one on the right rolls hard and straight to the button. The higher roll, with a lapel cut the same way, pulls in the lapel compared to the same cut rolled lower. iammatt points out in another thread that it is stylistically typical for a Rubinacci to have a hard roll.
If so, my conclusion is that the SB lapels for mafoofan are too wide for my taste (emphasis on the last phrase). If a hard roll to the buttoning point is the Rubinacci intention, and it seems that it is, the jacket in the lower left escapes being too wide only by defying that intended roll: it rolls above the button in that photograph.
Your conclusion might be different, for example, that lapel with should be invariate with respect to physical statures.
Here are the full photographs to see the jackets in context.
Mafoofan: SB Donegal
Mafoofan: DB flannel
Mafoofan: SB tweed
iammatt: chest hair restrained by three layers of fabric
What are your opinons.
- B
