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[doodledoc]

Here are the fit pics of the Benjamin Mediterranean Blue Bella Spalla Jacket.



I think I had the sleeves shortened a little too much. As mentioned before, Magic Tailor in Toronto undid the buttonhole stictching with no scarring at all.

I generally like the cut. The shoulders have very little padding on the top and back of the shoulder. It feels like there's slightly more padding in the front of the shoulder than I was expecting. There is some padding or wadding or something outside the shoulder seam, so it's not as messy as I was expecting. I love the stitching on the shoulder seam, but would've been ok with a messier shirt-sleeve style shoulder.

The jacket is cut not overly slim, but is certainly not baggy. This is a 42r in Bella Spalla. I wear a 40r in the Benjamin Purple Line Napoli jackets. I am around 20 pounds overweight right now - most in the spare tire region - and I think it sits fine as is. It would sit better if I didn't have any spare tire. There was no fabric to let out at the waist. If I gain an inch, buttoning would probably be tight and result in too much of an "X"

As discussed at length in this thread, the lapels are thinner than I would prefer. I would prefer 3.75-4". I think that would be a better proportion for my build, but I don't think these look like the trendy thin lapels that are still seen somewhat frequently on Indochino-style suits.

Buttoning point feels higher than expected. 1" lower would fit me better for me, but I have a low waist and this is a common issue for me with RTW.

Below is a closeup of the fabric, in natural lighting from a large window. As mentioned before, I love the fabric. I don't think I could improve on it if I went custom and had my choice of fabric from the books.

I definitely think it is a 3-season jacket, though. If I wear it when it's over 23ish degrees celsius (~73F) outside, I sweat too much. I run hot, so other people might be able to go a few degrees higher. Yesterday it was around 17 degrees celcius in the shade Toronto, and this jacket was perfect for patio drinks. It is warm, but doesn't feel heavy. Just soft, like a blanket.



The fabric changes a lot based on the lighting. Oustide it is pretty vibrant (but not too bright). Inside it often resolves to a lighter navy.

One of the other outstanding things about the jacket is the back. I noticed it before the tailor pointed it out. It is exceptionally clean for RTW. When I stand normally, the skirt isn't rippled like that.



Overall, I'm very pleased. I don't know of a better option for around $500 Canadian including exchange rate, customs, and alterations.

I agree with the wider lapels and the button stance. However, since the bella spalla jackets are made in Italy and Italian jackets generally seem to have a slightly higher buttonhole, I actually expected the button stance to be higher on the jacket.

 

[CousinDonuts]



Here are the fit pics of the Benjamin Mediterranean Blue Bella Spalla Jacket.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

[COLOR=A74345] [/COLOR] I think I had the sleeves shortened a little too much. As mentioned before, Magic Tailor in Toronto undid the buttonhole stictching with no scarring at all. I generally like the cut. The shoulders have very little padding on the top and back of the shoulder. It feels like there's slightly more padding in the front of the shoulder than I was expecting. There is some padding or wadding or something outside the shoulder seam, so it's not as messy as I was expecting. I love the stitching on the shoulder seam, but would've been ok with a messier shirt-sleeve style shoulder. The jacket is cut not overly slim, but is certainly not baggy. This is a 42r in Bella Spalla. I wear a 40r in the Benjamin Purple Line Napoli jackets. I am around 20 pounds overweight right now - most in the spare tire region - and I think it sits fine as is. It would sit better if I didn't have any spare tire. There was no fabric to let out at the waist. If I gain an inch, buttoning would probably be tight and result in too much of an "X" As discussed at length in this thread, the lapels are thinner than I would prefer. I would prefer 3.75-4". I think that would be a better proportion for my build, but I don't think these look like the trendy thin lapels that are still seen somewhat frequently on Indochino-style suits. Buttoning point feels higher than expected. 1" lower would fit me better for me, but I have a low waist and this is a common issue for me with RTW. Below is a closeup of the fabric, in natural lighting from a large window. As mentioned before, I love the fabric. I don't think I could improve on it if I went custom and had my choice of fabric from the books. I definitely think it is a 3-season jacket, though. If I wear it when it's over 23ish degrees celsius (~73F) outside, I sweat too much. I run hot, so other people might be able to go a few degrees higher. Yesterday it was around 17 degrees celcius in the shade Toronto, and this jacket was perfect for patio drinks. It is warm, but doesn't feel heavy. Just soft, like a blanket. The fabric changes a lot based on the lighting. Oustide it is pretty vibrant (but not too bright). Inside it often resolves to a lighter navy. One of the other outstanding things about the jacket is the back. I noticed it before the tailor pointed it out. It is exceptionally clean for RTW. When I stand normally, the skirt isn't rippled like that. Overall, I'm very pleased. I don't know of a better option for around $500 Canadian including exchange rate, customs, and alterations.

looks good!

 

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]

That looks pretty amazing. Nice jacket.

I also go to Magic Tailor too, small world.

 

[tristanFH]

Do you plan to do any DB suits? A nice navy...

 

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]

Ben, will there be any new stock of the Benjamin Bella Spalla sportcoats anytime soon? Starting to think of potential Christmas ideas to give to my wife.

 

[eHaberdasher]



looks good!

Agreed - looks pretty good and I think the sleeve length seems fine at least from what I can see from the pics. Thanks for sharing!

I just got back from Italy yesterday and picked out a few fabrics for the next cutting. Also tweaked the model slightly, and I hope to get the sample in the next few weeks to see how it comes out. As suggested by a few of you:

1. 9cm lapels
2. Lower button stance by 1cm
3. Basted sleeves with no button stitching and sleeve buttons unattached
4. Increased allowance on the inside of the jacket

I do try to accommodate most of you guys as best I can!

Ben, will there be any new stock of the Benjamin Bella Spalla sportcoats anytime soon? Starting to think of potential Christmas ideas to give to my wife.

Not sure about exact timing but we're shooting for ready by December 1. Was wondering - would it be helpful to do pre-orders? I put up the fabrics online and you guys order your size and that way I'll just make your size (stock size)? We could do that.... no adjustments/customisations though, so you'll have to know what size Bella Spalla works for you and the fit would be the same as current Bella Spalla (not including the solid black one - that was a different model and manufacturer).

Let me know what you guys think and I'll happily do it basically MTO.

 

[ryewo[i dmfsOZI490w]

Wow you're making it pretty hard to say no. When would the payment be required?

And what are some of the fabrics?

 

[Kroaker]



Agreed - looks pretty good and I think the sleeve length seems fine at least from what I can see from the pics. Thanks for sharing!

I just got back from Italy yesterday and picked out a few fabrics for the next cutting. Also tweaked the model slightly, and I hope to get the sample in the next few weeks to see how it comes out. As suggested by a few of you:

1. 9cm lapels
2. Lower button stance by 1cm
3. Basted sleeves with no button stitching and sleeve buttons unattached
4. Increased allowance on the inside of the jacket

I do try to accommodate most of you guys as best I can!
Not sure about exact timing but we're shooting for ready by December 1. Was wondering - would it be helpful to do pre-orders? I put up the fabrics online and you guys order your size and that way I'll just make your size (stock size)? We could do that.... no adjustments/customisations though, so you'll have to know what size Bella Spalla works for you and the fit would be the same as current Bella Spalla (not including the solid black one - that was a different model and manufacturer).

Let me know what you guys think and I'll happily do it basically MTO.

Sold! Count me in!

 

[Beav]



Let me know what you guys think and I'll happily do it basically MTO.

Yes! This would be great. I appreciate you considering making this an option.

 

[eHaberdasher]



Wow you're making it pretty hard to say no. When would the payment be required?

And what are some of the fabrics?

Haven't thought it through really... I guess I was thinking of 100% payment up front and then delivery in about 8 weeks. Returns allowed.

Don't have pics of the fabrics yet as I don't have all the swatches, but I did post one of them on instagram a few days ago:

https://instagram.com/p/8OT-W_vgNA/?taken-by=e_haberdasher

Zegna fabric in 100% wool that is so buttery soft you'd swear it was predominantly cashmere, and this lot was made for Brunello Cucinelli's collection. Looking at it I'm not sure which side I'd offer - probably the darker side.

 

[doodledoc]

Haven't thought it through really... I guess I was thinking of 100% payment up front and then delivery in about 8 weeks. Returns allowed.

Don't have pics of the fabrics yet as I don't have all the swatches, but I did post one of them on instagram a few days ago:

https://instagram.com/p/8OT-W_vgNA/?taken-by=e_haberdasher

Zegna fabric in 100% wool that is so buttery soft you'd swear it was predominantly cashmere, and this lot was made for Brunello Cucinelli's collection. Looking at it I'm not sure which side I'd offer - probably the darker side.

It would only be a jacket. No suits/matching trousers right?

 

[eHaberdasher]



It would only be a jacket. No suits/matching trousers right?

Correct - jackets only, although I am hoping to offer some trousers made in Napoli - different factory though. Picked out a nice medium grey flannel from VBC. If we did suits they'll be made by 2 different factories which complicates things a bit... there would be more fabric loss/waste and also coordinating a variety of things would just take a bit of extra work, care and inspection, so for now we'll first see how the trousers do as standalone trousers and I'll await all of your feedback. Fit will pretty much be like the Benjamin trousers though (trim but not super slim fit).

 

[scatterbrain]

Haven't thought it through really... I guess I was thinking of 100% payment up front and then delivery in about 8 weeks. Returns allowed.

Don't have pics of the fabrics yet as I don't have all the swatches, but I did post one of them on instagram a few days ago:

https://instagram.com/p/8OT-W_vgNA/?taken-by=e_haberdasher

Zegna fabric in 100% wool that is so buttery soft you'd swear it was predominantly cashmere, and this lot was made for Brunello Cucinelli's collection. Looking at it I'm not sure which side I'd offer - probably the darker side.

Darker side is better, IMO. I have a jacket made by Z Zegna that is similar to the lighter side. I find it to be a little difficult to match. Seems to kind of go with lots of stuff, but not go awesomely with very much. I thought I had found a winner combo below, but the people in Whnay's good taste thread disagreed. :/ Prior model of Benjamin shirt FTW.

The colour is a little off. The stripes are orange, not red.

 

[Beav]



Haven't thought it through really... I guess I was thinking of 100% payment up front and then delivery in about 8 weeks. Returns allowed.

Don't have pics of the fabrics yet as I don't have all the swatches, but I did post one of them on instagram a few days ago:

https://instagram.com/p/8OT-W_vgNA/?taken-by=e_haberdasher

Zegna fabric in 100% wool that is so buttery soft you'd swear it was predominantly cashmere, and this lot was made for Brunello Cucinelli's collection. Looking at it I'm not sure which side I'd offer - probably the darker side.

I really like that darker one! It would be great to see more when you get the swatches.

I don't know about everyone else, and I know this is irrational, but I tend to buy more when there is like a 50% up front payment... and then the rest a couple months later.

For some reason spreading out the pain makes things seem cheaper and makes me spend more.

 

[thisfits]



Agreed - looks pretty good and I think the sleeve length seems fine at least from what I can see from the pics. Thanks for sharing!

I just got back from Italy yesterday and picked out a few fabrics for the next cutting. Also tweaked the model slightly, and I hope to get the sample in the next few weeks to see how it comes out. As suggested by a few of you:

1. 9cm lapels
2. Lower button stance by 1cm
3. Basted sleeves with no button stitching and sleeve buttons unattached
4. Increased allowance on the inside of the jacket

I do try to accommodate most of you guys as best I can!
Not sure about exact timing but we're shooting for ready by December 1. Was wondering - would it be helpful to do pre-orders? I put up the fabrics online and you guys order your size and that way I'll just make your size (stock size)? We could do that.... no adjustments/customisations though, so you'll have to know what size Bella Spalla works for you and the fit would be the same as current Bella Spalla (not including the solid black one - that was a different model and manufacturer).

Let me know what you guys think and I'll happily do it basically MTO.

Adding my thumbs up for the changes ... I tried the Bella Spallas, and found I like the wider lapels of the Blue Label's better. I also think they'll benefit from a lower button stance, and I appreciate unattached sleeve buttons.

Also, YES on preorders and YES on odd trousers; I'd love to see a Benjamin Sartorial flannel trouser.

By the way -- can you share the waist measurement for the Benjamin shirts in size 15?