Where is the line drawn on when a suit jacket can be worn as a sport coat?

[2711383]

So I understand that suit jackets aren't supposed to be worn standalone because they look off without the trousers. My confusion comes from looking at Natalino's website and seeing that they essentially market all their suit jackets as "sport jackets".

So I guess my question is, why can this be a sport jacket but the top half of this Spier and Mackay suit can't? They both have jetted pockets, similarly sized lapels, etc.. Is it because of the sheen from the weave of the S&M suit?

 

[Using Technology]

I believe the rule of thumb is the more formal a suit looks, the less you can wear it as separates and conversely the more casual a suit is the more you can. This goes for both the fabric (shiny worsted wool is formal vs patterned tweed or linen as casual) and also details like jetted pockets vs. patch pockets.

In your examples, I agree the Natalino seems pretty close to an orphaned suit jacket to my eye. That said, it does have a herringbone pattern that makes it more casual than the S&M

 

[2711383]

That makes sense. Thank you!

 

[Using Technology]

That makes sense. Thank you!

No prob! Someone else here will probably have a more detailed explanation, but in general I think a flat untextured color doesn't really work for sports coats or wearing a suit jacket as separate. You want something textured (linen, tweed) or patterned (windowpane, herringbone, etc.). Obvious exception is a pinstripe which would look silly without the pants...

 

[maxalex]

I’m guessing those examples are flap pockets with the flaps tucked in (probably not yet unbasted), so the underlying jets are visible. Actual jetted pockets don’t have flaps and are considered ultra formal, like a tux.

Regardless, in these days where anything goes, whether to wear a suit jacket as a separate is more a matter of personal taste. Also where you live. Americans obsess about orphan jackets more than here in Europe, for example.

Better to think more about how the jacket goes with your other gear. I personally would never wear a worsted navy super 120s suit jacket with chinos and chukkas; that would just look odd to me, and not in a good way. But I might wear that suit jacket with solaro wool dress trousers and cordovan loafers, or with grey flannel trousers.

 

[mhip]

Also where you live. Americans obsess about orphan jackets more than here in Europe

I can tell you here in Southern California, I'd be shocked if I ran across someone who would have a clue about it.
It's a big country with a lot of jeans and flip flops...

 

[RobertSoren]

The question might be better framed as WHY does it look off without the matching trousers? Because you're pairing it with the wrong pant?

Pair fancy tailored jacket with equally fancy trousers
Or sporty jacket with sporty trousers

It's much simpler to buy the matching set (a suit) then to try to effectively pull off these combinations (although not that difficult).

 

[maxalex]

The question might be better framed as WHY does it look off without the matching trousers? Because you're pairing it with the wrong pant?

Pair fancy tailored jacket with equally fancy trousers
Or sporty jacket with sporty trousers

It's much simpler to buy the matching set (a suit) then to try to effectively pull off these combinations (although not that difficult).

Your reply is hinting at the very reason suits were “invented.” They came along in the 19th century as the Industrial Revolution bred a new middle class of merchants and office workers who had to look better than peasants but didn't have their own staff of foot men and dressers to lay out their clothes every morning. Unlike 18th-century aristocrats, they had to dress themselves. Suits made it so much easier—like pajamas for the daytime!

So yes, pairing a suit jacket with a contrasting trouser is harder. Some of us who love clothes rise to that challenge, rather like a runner aims for a marathon.

 

[wozniak]

As a newbie ( 1 year) into men's classic wear and seeing dozens of articles and debates, personally I only think only a few rules apply to be a separate jacket - 1) No Peak Lapels 2) No pinstripes 3) Not overly finished/shinny (needs texture/weave).

This is my personal style view. I recently bought a navy travel blazer (ya, I know, sports jacket). I ended up with a Fresco III Lite fabric, which some view as more a suit material, but I think works well. I also wear it year round - adding in layers like a V neck sweater or vest in the coldest months, but a fresco is not a major concern in the winter as all modern offices are kept 68-72 these days, and conference rooms for meetings can get very warm even in the winter.

 

[TieManTim]

^ I agree. With the way they have the heat cranked in winter now in offices, you’re better off wearing a linen sport coat vs. wool of any kind.

Here’s to breaking the rules!

As mentioned already, the art of it all is to match the formality (or informality) of the top half and bottom half. I’ve seen what were likely orphaned suit jackets repurposed very nicely as sport coats. I’ve also seen fine worsteds and faded jeans though.

 

[chrlsful]

what a great thread (pun intended) for this site. I love to see some who flow against the tide a bit (so many here ‘follow the party line’). No matter, this hits the hi points I’ve tried to make so much better than my poor writing/expressing skills:
“...Regardless, in these days where anything goes, whether to wear a suit jacket as a separate is more a matter of personal taste. Also where you live. Americans obsess about orphan jackets more than here in Europe, for example.

Better to think more about how the jacket goes with your other gear...."
creativity, bust out of norms, self express, etc and do so w/comfort, a flair, taste’n style, your own (medical term here) body type. Just one addition to above 2nd sentence “where you go”. Thnx much, am subscribing.

 

[William Kazak]

Something similar; try monochromatic dressing. Take a blue linen sport coat and pair it with a similar blue linen trouser. Also, you can pair it with a cream colored linen trouser. Alternately, you can take a cream color linen sport coat and pair it with a similar cream color linen trouser. And, take that same cream color linen sport coat and pair it with a blue linen trouser. These all work for me. I am sure there are other combinations of monochromatic, such as a cotton sport coat paired with a similar cotton color chinos trouser.

 

[Captain Cosmic]

Hi all, interesting thread. This has been on my mind as of late. I have a few pre 1962 Brooks brothers jackets that might be orphans that I use as sport coats. We could start a whole other thread about mid century brooks brothers style jacket lapels and shoulders, but suffice to say, I wish their lapels were a bit thinner.

Regardless, I will let the pictures speak for themselves and everyone can comment. Cheers!

The first one is a pre 62 Navy Hopsack 346 jacket, 3/2 hybrid (top button hole is finished on both side) Neapolitan style shoulder (see this article: A Tale Of Two Suits: Brooks In The ’50s & ’60s), probably an orphaned. Though patch pockets, flannel material, and or brass buttons would make it feel less orphaned, the navy color lends itself to it being used as a sport coat, in my opinion.

The next is a brown twill 346, 3/2 hybrid, with patch pockets. I though it a sport coat originally when I got it but have since seen 3 piece versions of it online. I know in the 50s/60s, Brooks would sell the off the rack 346 jackets and the matching pants separately. Not sure about vests.

A pre 1962 Brooks Brothers Makers Label, beige tan grayish heavy tweed with a subtle overcheck of green and blue, 3/2 hybrid, and patch pockets. I am pretty sure this is a sport coat though I could imagine a estate style tweed 3 piece would be very English country side.

A definite sport coat, pre 62 Brooks Brothers University Shop Bleeding Madras 3/2 hybrid (?). I would wager this was an outsourced sport coat for Brooks. Note Jazy Ivy mis aligned pockets and aim patterns. I have seen 1950s brooks ads with this same misalignment, so it must have been purposeful.

A pre 1962 346 suit. Sadly, there is not vest, 3/2 in navy chalk stripe flannel. No questions here. I see so many orphaned striped jackets online.

Lastly, a online 346 Brooks 1962-68 suit jacket, 3/2, charcoal with mini herringbone pattern and slightly Neapolitan shoulders? I've seen this in other dark blue (navy?) and olive, both as a suit and separates. My thought is that is an orphaned jacket. Could it work as a sport coat? That's my question to everyone.