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The two button cuff thread, redux

circumspice

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I am reducing my unfunded liabilities, and am kicking around the idea about going with two button cuffs on the pair of forthcoming sport coats. The trouble is, that I am in need a photo of what I am looking for.

Placement at roughly where the 1st and 3rd buttons on a 4 button sleeve would be
Non-oversized buttons



These buttonholes seem oversized, spacing seems tight. I think the buttons want to room to breath

Well-Dressed_Men_Bernhard_Roetzel_Blue_Blazer_by_Torsten_Grunwald.jpg



Merv Griffin's gear up for auction years ago: Spacing better, but the sleeve and coat buttons might be the same size?

6379661_1_l.jpg


Ages ago @dieworkwear professed love of the single button here:
http://dieworkwear.com/post/28917994338/the-sporty-single

This pic from that article is a bit healthier buttonhole : button size ratio than the first pic I linked, but it makes me mildly nervous that the button is a bit larger than I'd like

tumblr_m7aituAKW91qfex1b.jpg
 

emptym

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I like the two-button look (regular sleeve size) for sport coats and agree on the placement. I prefer the first buttonhole about 1.5" from the cuff and the second about an inch above that.
 

circumspice

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This Chipp purported to be from 1953 - spacing good, but the buttonholes look enormous on the sleeves, sleeve buttons appear to be nearly the size of the coat buttons.


1953%2BChipp%2B1.JPG


This is pretty close, and is evidence that all things lead back to StyFo - @tweedydon 's photobucket has this old BB layout where the button size and spacing seems right, but not working buttonholes

DSC08802_zpsaa8193c6.jpg
 

dieworkwear

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Two button cuff is an old Brooks/ Ivy detail. I really like it on sport coats.

tumblr_inline_nuqes9l0P71qfex1b_500.jpg

tumblr_inline_nvi8kbB44L1qfex1b_500.jpg

tumblr_inline_nysnu695tI1qfex1b_500.jpg

tumblr_inline_nysnueLqx21qfex1b_540.jpg

tumblr_inline_nysnuvmaCp1qfex1b_500.jpg

tumblr_inline_nysnv7Ly8I1qfex1b_500.jpg

The problem is getting the placement right. Enough space between the two buttons so it doesn't look like your tailor forgot to put another button on a three button sleeve, but not so much space that another button can fit in the middle. IME, unless you're working with a tailor that has done them before, it can be hard to get what you want since coats get sent down the line -- to people you'll never talk to -- for finishing details such as buttonholes. And sometimes these sorts of unusual details can get lost along that path, even if you send very specific instructions.

Best way is if you can cradle your tailor from behind while he's working the buttonholes, holding and guiding his hands like Patrick Swayze in Ghost.
 

dieworkwear

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This Chipp purported to be from 1953 - spacing good, but the buttonholes look enormous on the sleeves, sleeve buttons appear to be nearly the size of the coat buttons.


1953%2BChipp%2B1.JPG


This is pretty close, and is evidence that all things lead back to StyFo - @tweedydon 's photobucket has this old BB layout where the button size and spacing seems right, but not working buttonholes

DSC08802_zpsaa8193c6.jpg

It's either that size or the regular sleeve button size, which can also look too small. A matter of preference, IMO. I haven't seen buttons in between the size typically used for sleeves and those used on the front.
 

circumspice

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Buttons seem to be sized in Ligne. The Lining Company in the UK has 6 sizes of 4 hole, unpolished horn buttons.

I have no idea what sizes a tailor would tend to stock, but it would seem like the buttons on a button fly might be between the sleeve and front button size? Time to find a ruler
 

emptym

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I've seen buttons that are sized between the usual ones for front and sleeves. That's probably what I'd use if I'm ever tempted to go for a single button cuff.
 

Aszatk01

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reviving this one. @dieworkwear would love to hear your thoughts-
Just got in my NMWA Carrara sport coat (taupe hopsack Drapers montecarlo) and looking to finish the buttons. I have a few 3 and 4 button overlap or kissing so want to do something different without being too bold or fashiony.
1 button may look a bit flashy/bold? and likely would warrant use a larger (front proportioned) button
2 buttons perhaps a good compromise and if spaced right, could sneak a 3rd in-between for a slight overlaps if change my mind down the road. using the smaller intended sleeve buttons likely would be a safe choice.

Thanks!
 

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