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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Evolve

    Evolve Well-Known Member

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    Dec 30, 2013
    .
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  2. EndZone

    EndZone Member

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    Hi fellow Styleforum members! I have been a long time lurker but now a registered member. Recently, I bought a couple of casual jackets which I really love. Sleeves are to be shortened, but before that, I'm a bit hesitant about the length of the jacket. Is my jacket too short? Is it short to the point of funny? I need help here guys. The jacket is a 38S.

    The picture isn't very good, it looks like the jacket is too small and my belly too large, but believe me, this is not normally the fact. I guess the camera angle is a bit off. The thing that bothers me though, is the jacket length. Good or not?

    If I would go for a 38R, the sleeves would be so long that I would probably have to take off around 3-5 inches. Isn't a bit too much to take off? All the buttons would need to be moved (non-working ones though).

    Pic taken at a bit too low angle perhaps:
    [​IMG]

    Second attempt, at a more normal angle:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  3. Terpo

    Terpo Well-Known Member

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    Oct 6, 2013
    Location:
    Europe

    Don't want to appear pushy, just want to make sure my post doesn't get lost. Would appreciate any input on the two garments above.

    Regarding the shirt, I am not sure about the sleeve length, unbuttoned the cuffs end where the thumb forms the V with my hand.Is this too long. Also I find the sleeves a bit puffy so will probably have them tapered just slightly, as anything much slimmer restricts my movement.

    Regarding the trousers, need to get the drape fixed by a tailor by letting out the crotch. I took the advice from Flusser's book to get the waistband sitting in the natural waist for a tall slim guy like myself. I am not sure I interpreted the advice correctly as there is a bit of a margin for error in getting the height of the waistband right. Again, would appreciate any comments on this; I hope I am asking the question in the right place!

    Thanks a lot for your time!
     
  4. punit12

    punit12 Active Member

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    Jan 29, 2013
    I bought this used tuxedo on eBay; do the shoulders fit well before I take in the jacket and alter the trousers?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Length is a major issue. Honestly looks like a ladies jacket. Jacket looks too small and button is too high. If you get a regular, the sleeves won't be more than 1 " too long. Not a problem to shorten.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Trouser is all over the place. Don't take fitting on your natural waist so literally. That may be different on you than others. Trouser will look better sitting on your hip bone. Would shorten the rise here about 3/4". You have to adjust for the high right hip. The back rise is long and needs tweaking. The trouser fly isn't constructed well, it opens at the top of the fly just under the waistband. Would recommend reverse pleats over regular pleats. Reduce the the shoulder width on the shirt and the waist on the back part only. Sleeves are too long and cuffs a touch big in circumference.
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. EndZone

    EndZone Member

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    Thanks for the answer! Do you think I should even go for a size 40? Maybe an S then..? I'm afraid it would be too large at the shoulders though?

    You think its small overall, not just the length?
     
  8. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Jacket looks too big in this picture. If you have the waist suppressed it may make the shoulders look exaggerated. Not sure what to tell you. Everything is so boxy, hard to tell. One picture isn't much to work with.
     
  9. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    When they grade a pattern the shoulder width goes up about 1/4" per two sizes. It's not much and you need it. This jacket is too small and way too short. Have you tried other brands?
     
  10. EndZone

    EndZone Member

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    Yes, I have some more jackets of the same size. Will post some pics later today. Thanks a lot for your help!
     
  11. punit12

    punit12 Active Member

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    Thank you, will return it. After wearing it for a while the shoulders are too wide for me and made worse by the extreme padding too.
     
  12. jsong812

    jsong812 Active Member

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    Jun 26, 2011
    Hi everyone,

    Would appreciate thoughts on the fit of this "MTM" shirt (for those who are interested by Solosso). First off the cuff sizing is really off as it hangs down to almost my finger web with the cuffs buttoned. They also really got the bicep and forearm measurements off as my arms are swimming in them. Any suggestions on how to clean up the lines around the chest? Also, do I need to add some more to the waist/hip area? And what about the length of the shirt? seems long to me... Ultimately, is this something that can be fixed by a local tailor at a reasonable cost? I'm referring mostly to the bicep/forearm width and cuffs? Thanks!


    Thanks!

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  13. EndZone

    EndZone Member

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    Feb 11, 2014
    So Despos, another picture for you. Same size, but different jacket. Same problem here? Still hesitant about what size to go for. A 38R would make it longer, but perhaps still to small overall? And going for a 40R perhaps would be too much? Would a 40S seem to be the best choice?

    Edit: Perhaps a 39R would be a good choice...?


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014
  14. odub

    odub Active Member

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    Jan 3, 2013
    Tailoring question: I picked up sport coat recently where the fit overall seemed decent but when buttoned:

    1) the back of the jacket collar doesn't lay flat against my neck
    2) there's a slight gap that forms in the chest area, behind the lapels.

    The two are interrelated - something about the construction is such that buttoning the jacket reshapes everything from the chest up to the back collar. It's subtle...but it's there.

    I've had tailor fix that gap problem in another blazer before but I haven't had him look at the "back of the collar" issue in the past.

    Is this worth having tailored? Thanks!
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    This has a fuller chest and looks better, shoulder is wider but the length is short and not just a little. Wearing jeans with the jacket makes the jacket length more off to the eye. This is why I asked if you had tried multiple brands, they will all have a different fit. You do not want short, try a regular. They are all too short
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you have an issue with jacket balance and probably a shoulder issue. If you have square shoulders or the jacket has a short back balance you will have a big space between the front jacket edges where it buttons. The fronts will open and fall away. When the jacket is unbuttoned of course. When you pull the fronts together to button the front it pushes the jacket up and pulls the collar away from your neck. If the problem is from square shoulders you need them squared up and maybe the collar shortened. If it is a balance issue you need the entire back part raised up to lengthen the back balance. Both are technical, more
    difficult adjustments.
     
  17. EndZone

    EndZone Member

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    I am so grateful to have someone like you helping me. I'm totally lost, but I'm slowly finding my way :)

    This second jacket is a better fit, I agree, but still I feel that it is a tad too tight. The top button is positioned right at my solar plexus which when moving can be slightly uncomfortable. Not too much, but I feel that maybe a small small size difference could do it. Question is, do you think a 39R instead of this 38S could be the best fit I can get with this one? Or will a 39 possibly throw things off completely? Like shoulder width for example? Or me looking as if I'm wearing a tube?
     
  18. AwfullyNiceGuy

    AwfullyNiceGuy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Denmark, Jutland
    I will do a shameless self bump and rephrase my question:
    When looking to buy a coat(outerwear meant here), how much larger should the coat approx. be in shoulder measurements than a SC/suit jacket if it is to fit over said SC/suit jacket? If there are any rules of thumb at all!
    I am not having the luxury of trying the coat on, and therefore am looking to gauge it from measurements, while I realize the cut might be a huge factor. The coat is 20'' between shoulders, and my usual jackets are 18.5''-19''.
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    20 would be the maximum.

    18.5 jacket with 19 top coat would be the minimum.

    The rest you won't know until you actually try it on. When you see it , it will either look/feel right to you or not. No solid answer
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Waiting for you to try on a regular. Glad to hear you realize this feels/fits better than the previous. If you try a 40R with a bit narrower shoulder, that may be the one. You won't know until you try it on.
     

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