The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

This may well be true, though I also regard it as a question of common courtesy. If someone asks me to wear something as part of going to an event and I can comply without some major hardship, I'm going to comply regardless of interest in clothes (the whole mentality you describe to me translates to "I can get away with not doing something I've requested to do, so I'm not going to bother" and seems inherently self-centered). Similarly, if someone asks me to show up at 8:00 for a dinner reservation, I'm going to show up at 8:00 unless I have a damn good reason not to. If someone hosts a BYOB event, I am going to bring a bottle of wine / case of beer / some other sort of drink. The two reasons to knowingly not comply with a dress code are (i) lack of desire to comply or (ii) inability to comply. Ignorance of what the dress code means could be a third excuse as could ignorance of the fact that there is a dress code, but I'd think that minimal effort could correct either of these issues.

I get that not everyone sees the world this way. Some parts of the world are more casual and less inclined to dress up.

I agree. In particular, the event that I attended was not something one was invited to to; you had to make a reservation and pay a not inconsiderable sum to attend. I remain somewhat surprised that people would pay to attend an event like that, one that had a dress code, and then not make any effort whatsoever to comply with the dress code. I mean, what's the point?

 

[TimelesStyle]



This may well be true, though I also regard it as a question of common courtesy. If someone asks me to wear something as part of going to an event and I can comply without some major hardship, I'm going to comply regardless of interest in clothes (the whole mentality you describe to me translates to "I can get away with not doing something I've requested to do, so I'm not going to bother" and seems inherently self-centered). Similarly, if someone asks me to show up at 8:00 for a dinner reservation, I'm going to show up at 8:00 unless I have a damn good reason not to. If someone hosts a BYOB event, I am going to bring a bottle of wine / case of beer / some other sort of drink. The two reasons to knowingly not comply with a dress code are (i) lack of desire to comply or (ii) inability to comply. Ignorance of what the dress code means could be a third excuse as could ignorance of the fact that there is a dress code, but I'd think that minimal effort could correct either of these issues.

I get that not everyone sees the world this way. Some parts of the world are more casual and less inclined to dress up.

I agree completely. However, there have been times (as I'm sure there will be again) where I dressed outside of a dress code deliberately, typically to make a point. But it wasn't lack of understanding, laziness, inability to comply or anything like that. These were also rarely, if ever, social events.

 

[Fred G. Unn]

I've decided to purchase some braces for my black tie rig since my newly purchased Caruso already has buttons for them sewn in. I'm assuming Manton's advice here is still applicable and I should get black, although no one will see them anyway:
http://www.styleforum.net/t/55619/black-tie-braces-black-or-white/0_30#post_865162

I'm looking at the Albert Thurston black moire and black boxcloth braces. Any reason to choose one over the other?
http://www.exquisitetrimmings.com/p...s/Black-Moire-Braided-End-Evening-Braces.html
http://www.exquisitetrimmings.com/p...-Boxcloth-Braces-with-Hand-Stitched-Ends.html

 

[Tried and True]



I'm looking at the Albert Thurston black moire and black boxcloth braces. Any reason to choose one over the other?.

I think that moire is a bit dressier than box cloth and I prefer the black braided ends over the white leather. That said, either will work.

 

[poorsod]

I prefer the braided ends because the leather ends on the other version bites into my back when seated.

 

[TimelesStyle]

My personal preference is for white/off white silk. Since I wear a cummerbund, which is a bit more fitted around the waist, I prefer braided ends; they lay a little flatter and don't feel like they're being pressed into my hips the way leather would.

 

[Fred G. Unn]



I prefer the black braided ends

I prefer the braided ends

I prefer braided ends;

Sounds like braided ends is the way to go. Thanks all!

 

[LoKey]

I've been following this thread for a while to help inform my first tuxedo purchase. After some pondering, I've picked up a Benjamin tuxedo from ehaberdasher and wholecut Carmina oxfords. My next step is to order a shirt from Luxire. I'm hoping to get some of your recommendations to finalize my order.

The standard options for the shirt include marcella bib/cuffs/collar, a French placket and French cuffs, and belt loop. I've decided on a turndown collar, but I'm uncertain about the collar specifications. I'm typically partial to wider spread collars (with collar points falling underneath jacket lapels) but I'm not sure what would be suitable for a tuxedo shirt. Does anyone have suggestions for collar point lengths and spread? I apologize if this has already been covered in this thread and I missed it.

 

[dopey]



My personal preference is for white/off white silk. Since I wear a cummerbund, which is a bit more fitted around the waist, I prefer braided ends; they lay a little flatter and don't feel like they're being pressed into my hips the way leather would.

This is what I have. An old pair from Brooks Brothers in white silk or nylon barathea with white braided ends. The braces themselves have yellowed a little bit though the ends are still bright white. I wear a white silk cummerbund, that has also yellowed since I bought in in 1986. Well . . . I used to wear it, but I stopped when I switched to DB a a few years ago.

 

[archetypal_yuppie]



All but one came up short in some way:
...notch lapels...

This stupid belief is still around?

I was the only person I would say was properly attired. It was disappointing.

You're so ******* superior.

It's just not that hard.

Some people don't have the time, money, or inclination to spend on the pursuit of something as trivial as "SF approved" black tie attire.
Don't get me wrong. People attending black tie should wear black tie. But judging someone for buttons, vents, or GASP NOTCH LAPELS is full marsupial elitist crap.

 

[culverwood]

+1

 

[TimelesStyle]



But judging someone for buttons, vents, or GASP NOTCH LAPELS is full marsupial elitist crap.

As though hipster-ism has even invaded black tie...

 

[archetypal_yuppie]

You appear to have missed the point entirely.

 

[Fred G. Unn]

Just wanted to mention that Neiman Marcus Last Call still has Caruso tuxedos for pretty cheap if anyone is looking. Peak lapels, satin, fully canvassed, handsewn lapel buttonhole, side vents (not ventless), suspender buttons (no belt loops), basted sleeves, wool/mohair, etc. Tagged price is $787 but at least at my nearest NMLC they hit the 40% off rack, and I had an additional 10% off coupon so it was about $450. (Sales tax on formalwear in PA.) Even though they aren't on the website you can call up any NMLC store, give the sku and they will search it for you. NM sizing conversions are a little on the small size, EU 50 = US 39/40, EU 52 = US 41, etc. Sku is 43055267 and NM model # is 99000. Anyway, it seems pretty tough to beat for a sub $500 tuxedo if you're ok with satin lapels and side vents.

Be sure to check that the trousers and jacket sizes match correctly though. I saw a EU 52 jacket with EU 50 trousers, so have the associate check the actual tag of both.

 

[Andy57]

This stupid belief is still around?
You're so ******* superior.
Some people don't have the time, money, or inclination to spend on the pursuit of something as trivial as "SF approved" black tie attire.
Don't get me wrong. People attending black tie should wear black tie. But judging someone for buttons, vents, or GASP NOTCH LAPELS is full marsupial elitist crap.

You appear to have missed the point entirely.

Which would appear to be self-aggrandizing ad hominem attacks. Pretty much on point for StyleForum. I assume that 200+ posts gives you the leeway to do that. Good for you.

My response, one that you will have no trouble grasping: **** you and the horse you rode in on.