• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

** Quintessential Crockett & Jones Thread ** (reviews, quality, etc...)

PCK1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
3,101
Reaction score
3,214
I use mahogany and dark brown wax together on my chestnut monkton's.

Gives them a nice character over time.
 

PCK1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
3,101
Reaction score
3,214
Re the conversation yesterday about lasts...this is the Crockett & Jones Teign on the 341 last.

This shoe is incredibly comfortable. It is an unlined suede loafer....(the lined version of this loafer is called the Sydney and is also on the 341).

You can see from the shape the that 341 is similar in the toe to the 363. I find the 341 to be shorter and a little more snug than the 363....For me this last in a loafer fits better than the 363 loafers that I have (model is Crawford).

The color of the suede is dark brown...you can see that the apron of the shoe has a nice contrast stitching to give it a little flare...and the opening of the shoe has a dark brown calf trim.

The only issue I have with this shoe is regarding shoe trees. I find the C&J standard trees fit ok into this shoe...but because it is unlined the shoe trees tend to pull on the leather and slightly distort the shape...but this will happen with any shoe tree because it is unlined..

If you are looking to add a loafer to your C&J collection...you may want to consider the Teign or the Sydney on the 341 last for a nice elongated almond toe that can be dressed up or down very easily.

 

Burton

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2010
Messages
1,695
Reaction score
229
Question for the folks here, I purchased a pair of Courtenay which are on the 363 last. I found this last to be roomier than the 358 but also longer. I am sending the shoes back because I can't wear them. Wondered if anyone else found the difference between the two unworkable. Thoughts on 337, 358 and 363 or any other lasts?
 
Last edited:

crzcrz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
53
Reaction score
49
neutral is always a safe bet and especially for chestnut if you want to keep that color.
shine on .... :)
Santoni does not recommend using neutral on their shoes, claiming it will ruin the colour. On the other side, C&J use neutral (followed by a coloured wax) in their official "Shoe care" video. I guess it doesn't really matter, as long as something is used and the leather is not dry.
 

niklasnordin

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
362
Reaction score
293
Santoni does not recommend using neutral on their shoes, claiming it will ruin the colour. On the other side, C&J use neutral (followed by a coloured wax) in their official "Shoe care" video. I guess it doesn't really matter, as long as something is used and the leather is not dry.
It will not 'ruin' the color :)
It will lighten it up slightly, but its a very slow process and you can easily compensate for that by using a medium brown/ light brown/ mahogny cream / wax every now and then.

I've been using neutral cream/wax on my dark brown C&J Weymouth for 2 years now, together with dark brown/black on toe and heal and this is how the look now.
You tell me if you think its ruined :) personally I prefer them to have a slight color variation.
 

crzcrz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
53
Reaction score
49
It will not 'ruin' the color :)
It will lighten it up slightly, but its a very slow process and you can easily compensate for that by using a medium brown/ light brown/ mahogny cream / wax every now and then.

I've been using neutral cream/wax on my dark brown C&J Weymouth for 2 years now, together with dark brown/black on toe and heal and this is how the look now.
You tell me if you think its ruined :) personally I prefer them to have a slight color variation.
Don't shoot the messenger, good sir. I was merely quoting the Santoni shoe care guide.

Very nice looking C&Js, by the way.
 

PCK1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
3,101
Reaction score
3,214
My understanding of using neutral cream/wax is that it is very good for maintaining the true color

And it is very good to use on newer shoes because they don't need their color restored...

As the shoes get older it is advisable to start adding some color into the mix to help the shoes keep their color.




My personal opinion, i prefer not to use neutral....I use colored...as I like the character it gives the shoes over time...after years of wear they will still look fantastic like this. I don't want them to look brand new...I want people to see that these are great shoes that have been well worn and well maintained...the leather tells a story...they gather experience...

Perhaps thats a little too dramatic...but you get my point.
 

PCK1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
3,101
Reaction score
3,214
Question for the folks here, I purchased a pair of Courtenay which are on the 363 last. I found this last to be roomier than the 358 but also longer. I am sending the shoes back because I can't wear them. Wondered if anyone else found the difference between the two unworkable. Thoughts on 337, 358 and 363 or any other lasts?

I have the the 337, 358, and the 363.

Just for those that do not know...the 358 is the exact same last as the 348...the only difference is that the 358 is "handgrade" quality and the 348 is C&J standard quality.

I am a big fan of the 337 - I have this last in the Saville monkstrap model. It is a very soft chiseled toe that is very elegant and appropriate for business situations where a more extreme chiseled toe may not be appropriate. I find the fit to not be so elongated either...In the 337 I wear a size UK11E...and it fits me very well.

I have many shoes on the 348/358 as well....this last is more elongated than the 337...and has a more "aggressive", if you will call it that, shape and a narrower more chiseled toe. It is definitely a modern more trendy take...but is very popular...it is C&J's most popular and best selling last...I find that with these shoes due to their elongated nature I have to size down a half-size...and I wear a UK10.5E.

In the 363 I have 3 pairs of shoes (2 pairs of Crawford loafers - one calf & one suede...and the model Courtenay oxford...which I happen to be wearing today). The 363 last is definitely an elongated last...and with a very nice almond shaped toe. However...my experience with it...is that I still fit into a size UK11E....in my loafers I maybe could have sized down to a 10.5E and been ok...but with the Courtenay I am definitely an 11E. This last is very elongated...so I can see people (depending ofc on their individual feet)...having issues with it...On my Courtenay's...you can see that the last is very elongated from where the creases have developed on my shoes...creases don't bother me at all...but it does make it clear the elongated nature of this last.

These are my experiences with these 3 lasts...

The 363 is the rounded toe...and the 337/348/358 are a chiseled toe.

If you looking for something similar to the 363 with the rounded toe...I can make other recommendations.
 

niklasnordin

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2012
Messages
362
Reaction score
293
Don't shoot the messenger, good sir. I was merely quoting the Santoni shoe care guide.

Very nice looking C&Js, by the way.
hehe, sorry if you took it that way. That was really not my intention.
I was just trying to demonstrate that the statement made by Santoni was ...exagerated :)

and thanks :)
 

Crat

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2011
Messages
1,989
Reaction score
4,434
- PCK1, I second that opinion on the Teign. They are my most comfortable pair of shoes and I wear them as much as all my other shoes combined.

- Nice polish Niklas :nodding:
What Santoni may mean is that if you build up too many thick layers of neutral polish the colour can become somewhat dull. This is quite obviously not what you have done ;)
Sunlight will lighten the leather and neutral won't do anything to counter that effect which is fine, if that is what you want.
 

crzcrz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2012
Messages
53
Reaction score
49
Digged out a couple of those those guides out of the boxes. They seem to use a slightly different wording every time.

 

sevenfoldtieguy

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2011
Messages
4,292
Reaction score
452
It will not 'ruin' the color :) It will lighten it up slightly, but its a very slow process and you can easily compensate for that by using a medium brown/ light brown/ mahogny cream / wax every now and then. I've been using neutral cream/wax on my dark brown C&J Weymouth for 2 years now, together with dark brown/black on toe and heal and this is how the look now. You tell me if you think its ruined :) personally I prefer them to have a slight color variation.
Your shoes look nice. :nodding: While I have plenty of colored creams and waxes, my default regimen is neutral cream followed by a neutral wax. Never had ill effects from it.
 

PCK1

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
3,101
Reaction score
3,214
This is my pair of C&J Handgrade Courtenay's in Dark Brown Antique Calf on the 363 Last. You can see from the aerial shot the long almond shaped toe of this last.

In regards to polishing routines...these shoes have just been polished by me tonight...after I wore them today. I vigorously brushed them...using a cloth wrapped around my fingers...applied a thin layer of saphir m'dor dark brown wax polish...i let them sit a bit....i brushed vigorously again...and then i applied a mirror shine to the toes using the same dark brown wax polish.

You can see that the antique calf has developed a very nice patina and character over time from the wax polishing...and I have had this shoe about 1 year...The Courtenay was a brand new model last spring (feb/march)...and I was one of the first people to jump on it when the Courtenay arrived in the C&J NYC showroom.

The Courtenay may very well be my favorite pair of C&J oxfords...









 
Last edited:

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 86 38.1%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.5%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,441
Messages
10,589,435
Members
224,240
Latest member
devinahawkins
Top