New Object Research - The Aitor Throup Thread

[Ivwri]

Not that I am aware of.

To my knowledge the only retail releases under his own label have been -

- the "Legs" retrospective/exhibitions in various stores around the world resulting in sales of pants from "Funeral for New Orleans" collection as well (Selfridges, Seven of New York, Darklands Berlin): Trumpet pants, anatomy pants, calf-pocket pants, not sure what else was available during this time period
- Capsule collection with Dover Street Market: Stockwell denim jacket, jeans, t-shirt and skull backpack.
- Shiva skull bag release

Then of course there are the numerous collaborations - Topman trousers, CP Company goggle jacket redesign, Umbro A.R.P and so on.

Hope that helps.

 

[SuEd]

I'm fascinated with that tie in the Funeral for New Orleans collection.

 

[dantebykiko]

Not that I am aware of.

To my knowledge the only retail releases under his own label have been -

- the "Legs" retrospective/exhibitions in various stores around the world resulting in sales of pants from "Funeral for New Orleans" collection as well (Selfridges, Seven of New York, Darklands Berlin): Trumpet pants, anatomy pants, calf-pocket pants, not sure what else was available during this time period
- Capsule collection with Dover Street Market: Stockwell denim jacket, jeans, t-shirt and skull backpack.
- Shiva skull bag release

Then of course there are the numerous collaborations - Topman trousers, CP Company goggle jacket redesign, Umbro A.R.P and so on.

Hope that helps.

i think there was collaboration with levi's when he was at RCA which made it to the stores. also two stone island collaborations, england national team.

 

[dantebykiko]

this outfit its in museum in italy. i remember when we shipped it.


this is the London Fashion Week MAN exhibition, where Aitor was part of, sponsored by Stone Island and YKK.



legs in London if i'm not mistaken.

 

[Ivwri]

Thought I would post a few more Aitor sketches.

 

[Ivwri]

I keep torturing myself with images of the various suits from "Funeral of New Orleans". The Trumpet suit in particular is definitely my grail one because of the pants.

I wonder whether he will only release the Saxophone iteration as that is what was shown during the AW13 show. Then again, A trumpet suit for SS14 would be glorious.

Spoiler: Images of trumpet pants via NagNagShop

 

[Ivwri]

Pretty short and sweet Dazed Digital interview with Aitor Throup during the "LEGS" exhibition.

AITOR THROUP SHOWS SOME LEG
A retrospective of Throup's meticulously calculated trousers was presented in Paris for two days.
Text: Nabil Azadi
Photography: Yang Wang

This weekend in Paris, designer Aitor Throup launched 'Legs', a retrospective of trousers designed from 2004 to 2010 by the Royal College of Art graduate and the result of six years of new object research. Throughout the Galerie Jean-Luc are Takako Richard stationary male forms moulded in thermoactive cotton mesh in rows from the ceiling, captured in vital movements of the human body. Throup has progressed chronologically through his archives, lifting a selection of designs from every six months and reinterpreting them with materials and design details appropriate to the season – and in doing so, has created an arena welcoming the expression of pure creativity and functionality. Capable of communicating a full-bodied narrative without proposing a complete look, Legs strives to elevate the status of trousers from over-saturated commodities to unique objet d’art.

Throup’s series of trousers entitled 'The Funeral of New Orleans' is in particular a testament to the creativity and logic of his vision. Informed by the traditional funeral processions of New Orleans’ marching bands, it deals with concepts of body armour – each piece is formed onto a mesh sculpture of the human body created in the pose required to play each instrument, and the trousers demonstrate five exaggerated stages of shrinkage from when wool is exposed to water. It is clear that Throup’s designs exist beyond the tired parameters of fashion– they are meticulously constructed garments existing both within their narrative and without, made with respect for the human body and an astounding understanding of its formation.

Dazed Digital: You know, I only know about your recent work – I couldn’t find out much about what you were doing two or three years ago.
Aitor Throup: Oh, really? What actually happened is that I graduated from my Masters with the Hooligans collection, and that was quite creatively exhausting for me really because of every single little detail that was there.

DD: At the same time, there was a kind of logic to it!
Aitor Throup: A logic but mostly an explanation. It’s based on a kind of deeper definition of this obsession with masculinity or this masculine obsession with what’s traditionally function. But it’s not actually function – it’s reason. Fuction is a reason – if something has a function, that is why it’s there, right? – but I’m interested in exploring reasons beyond function, so something can have a reason because of a narrative or a concept, so [with The Funeral of New Orleans], it’s not a function but because it’s one pair of trousers systematically shrinking, with the same pockets, same waistband, same construction, you’re moving and increments and you’re setting something in motion and telling a story. There is a reason that trouser is 33% smaller than that trouser!

DD: Is it really 33% smaller?
Aitor Throup: No, I can’t remember what it is exactly right now.

DD: Right. At this point I’m probably just going to believe everything that you say verbatim. This is unlike anything I’ve seen.
Aitor Throup: That’s alright. There’s a mathematical term called parametric equation which is basically an equation that is – well – defined by parameters. So the parameters are predefined, and then the equation can be infinite if that’s what you want. So, for example there’s this new movement in architecture that is mirroring that. Architects might expand ceilings or floor sizes by increments, and so a building just begins to build up. What increments are you changing? Which side of the building is growing?

DD: There’s such logic about all of your work. Is this something that has always been quite instinctual for you?
Aitor Throup: I think being conceptual in fashion is really overused but our conceptual is about having confidence that you can justify and explain and having a narrative and I think that is something that is quite rare.

DD: It’s similar to what you were saying earlier about how you can’t communicate all of this around us on a catwalk.
Aitor Throup: Exactly, I don’t like the mentality of showing something for a very limited amount of time to a static audience that doesn’t get to choose the amount of time they look at the object or the angle from which they look at it. Me, I love my objects! There is a narrative built in them and here I can allow the viewer to be the active component rather than the passive component. It’s for them, you know.

​

 

[reedobandito]

Does anyone else feel like AT's sketches are partially inspired by Metal Gear Solid concept art?

 

[Lionheart Biker]

I think I need to stop buying and start saving up so I can get something from his new collection.

Iwvri, if you are interested in getting some Aitor now, there are pants available in Nagnagshop

http://www.nagnagnagshop.com/shop/clothing/size44/aitor-throup-calf-pocket-trouser

http://www.nagnagnagshop.com/shop/clothing/size44/aitor-throup-trumpet-trouser

 

[Ivwri]



Does anyone else feel like AT's sketches are partially inspired by Metal Gear Solid concept art?

Hmm, I don't really see it reedo. They do share some similarities in that both Aitor and Shinkawa use sketching as their primary artistic vehicle, but other than that, Shinkawa is primarily brush, Aitor is pencil, ink and marker. I also feel that a lot of Shinkawa's art is about mood and ambience and not necessarily the details or the human form as such. Much more similar to ukiyo-e print style work and of course the works of Yoshitaka Amano. His characters also lack the degree of motion that Aitor's possess. A lot more static poses and pastiches of 60s/70s spy-fi promo art.

I would say that Aitor does bear a resemblance to the art of Ashley Wood who has done some work on Metal Gear Solid as well (I think he did all the comic cutscene art for Peace Walker on the PSP among other things) even though most (all?) of the work he puts out is painted.

I think I need to stop buying and start saving up so I can get something from his new collection.

Iwvri, if you are interested in getting some Aitor now, there are pants available in Nagnagshop  

http://www.nagnagnagshop.com/shop/clothing/size44/aitor-throup-calf-pocket-trouser

http://www.nagnagnagshop.com/shop/clothing/size44/aitor-throup-trumpet-trouser

Yeah I saw those actually, but neither are in my size . I got in touch with darklands a year or two ago now about picking up a pair of the trumpet pants, but the 50 had gone by then and I was assured that the 48 would be too small for me, lol. I did see the calf pocket trouser in a 50 on Superfuture a couple of months ago...don't think anybody picked it up.

I also think I will just save up for AW13. Means very few purchases until then lol. Maybe we could start a "No-cop until Aitor Throup AW13 club" Lionheart? Hehe.

 

[jwjp]



. Maybe we could start a "No-cop club until Aitor Throup AW13 club" Lionheart? Hehe.

Count me in

 

[Lionheart Biker]

I´m down

I´m imagining what the price the point will be on the pieces, so no kopping till then is the only way to go

.

I don´t want to miss on getting something from his collection, ´cause I absolutely loved it.

 

[Ivwri]

It is a shame the prices are what they are (not that I can blame Aitor considering how small his studio is and the time and effort that has gone into each piece over the years), but it's cool since each archetype will see multiple releases down the years as long as his studio remains active.

Means that one can always save up to pick up a particular archetype from the concept archive down the road. What will be even better is if they can get to the stage of doing private orders. Just pick the archetype you want, choose fabrics and maybe colour and boom! I hope they do this in the future .

Speaking of Archetypes, Aitor's team just posted the interview from the recent Hypebeast issue on their http://www.facebook.com/AitorThroupStudioFB page (I tried ordering a copy of the magazine from Oi Polloi, but my order got cancelled due to them probably not doing business with Nigeria, sigh). If anyone is willing and able to pick it up and do high resolution scans, that would be awesome.

 

[jwjp]

Good read. It's interesting to hear his thoughts on his use of all-black. I wonder if he'll branch away from that at all after a few releases. I would hope so, considering how well he uses colour in his illustration

 

[uzairh]

Some pics from the showroom:

http://inanimatexistence.blogspot.com/2012_07_01_archive.html